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intank fuel pump

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Old Jun 10th, 2019, 23:09   #191
Laird Scooby
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We now know it's a 740GLE auto of about 1988/9 in 603 Dark Blue Metallic, plug leads look to be in the right order as well.

Vac advance hose looks a little saggy but on it's own won't cause these problems.
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 06:35   #192
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hi dave its manual not auto
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 07:38   #193
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more homework

You NEED to know this diagram really well.

As I understand it, your car will start and run (poorly) when you power up the fuel pump under the car from a separate battery.

If this is correct, it means your "not starting" problem is NOT the pump - its the circuit supplying power to the pump.

I'm not prepared to hold your hand in a guessing exercise - if you have a voltmeter, let me know. We can then logically test the circuit all the way back until we find the fault.

This probably will not fix the poor running problem - but the no fuel problem has to be fixed first.

Read the diagram - preferably print it out because I'll want you to record some numbers on it and thats easier if you are holding a piece of paper and a pen!
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 08:32   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atco View Post
hi dave its manual not auto
Good - just checking the right photo had been posted!
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 11:24   #195
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[QUOTE=aardvarkash10;2527650]more homework

Thank you very much for this diagramm aardvarkash

Will be on my computer too, still far away from home to check this.

It will run with the pump feed by a batterie directly. Better would be to build a bridge at the fuse box, I did post this too.
The green relay does supply the power to the pump by 87 and the AAV (auxiliary air valve, to lift the idle when cold) and the warm up regulator, even called control pressure regulator, by 87b. The control pressure regulator is regulated by the temperature/heat of the engine too.
Yes the engine will not run proper, way too rich and without a leveled idle. Would still run. If you get the engine warm up it will run fine with too low idle, no problem. You will be able to drive the car too.
I pleased atco to try this to check if the fuel system is working. And to touch nothing else (even don't touch the pump(s))

and yes too: I think it is a problem with the electric side of the green relay.

step by step

in front of all: Stop do change parts as part of a lottery

First: get the engine run with a bridge at the fuse box

second: check if the rev counter shows anything

third: check the socket of the green relay, maybe its molten.

forth: check with a multimeter the conection between the white/red at the coil and 31b(3) at the socket of the green relay

fifth: check with a light or the multimeter the 30+ supply at the socket of the green relay 30 (6)

six: ask and ask again



The problem in the past with the exploded box of the exhaust will be two situations, both result in a way too rich mixture.
first will be a faulty ignition side, blown out spark or missing spark
second will be a not working warm up regulator

this you won't find out woth a fuel pressure gauge or a AEM band stuff


good luck, the car needs love, a lot of corrosion inside the engine bay, I can't believe the electrical connections will be without problems. there are a lot of connectors......, Kay

Last edited by mocambique-amazone; Jun 11th, 2019 at 11:28. Reason: not my natural
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 19:40   #196
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 19:54   #197
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hi dave just a couple of more photos of the pump with the arrow tracing towards the engine.hope its right.and how do you bridge of from the fuse box.also i havent started the car with a new pump and new fuel at the moment.because it was old fuel and a not working pump.ill give it a go in the week to try and start.the fuse box is showing number 1 on the pump and im hoping the engine was running bad due to crap fuel and will smooth out a bit so i can move on
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 19:59   #198
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You should spray oil for conservation at all parts made of alloy atco.
The warm up (pressure) regulator doesn't look good. Way too much corrosion.

Filter is in right position

Please remove the pump again and wrap the pump 3-4 around with gaffa-tape or 1 time around with a peace of rubber. Check the rubber at the filter too.
Steel ( naked!!!) And naked alloy are prone to produce electricity between them. The pump and the filter will be destroyed at astonishing short time otherwise.

The better solution is a bridge at the fuse board to drive the pump

Good night and good luck, Kay
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 20:01   #199
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Your reports are not in line and give very confusion to me......
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Old Jun 11th, 2019, 20:45   #200
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Can you get some photos of the cam belt and timing marks please? Looking at the cam belt in the bottom left corner of the pic it doesn't look too healthy.
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