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My way of driving and what it does to my car

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View Poll Results: This is my driving style
I drive hard, use full throttle and max revs - and have had no issues 26 5.69%
I drive hard, use full throttle and max revs - and have had problems 2 0.44%
I drive moderately hard and floor it from time to time - and have no issues 254 55.58%
I drive moderately hard and floor it from time to time - and have had problems 45 9.85%
I drive very gently, low revs and little throttle mostly - and all is OK 119 26.04%
I drive very gently, low revs and little throttle mostly - and have had problems 11 2.41%
Voters: 457. You may not vote on this poll

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Old Jul 20th, 2012, 23:43   #61
Shrink
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Oddly enough with a T5-R option 5 for me( gentle driving and no problems) ,improved by my new 16" alloys.But do find overtaking ability useful .Am aware repeated short trips not helpful for engine so will take to work,a 50 mile round trip once a week.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2012, 00:24   #62
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I drive like a monkey
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Old Jul 22nd, 2012, 14:28   #63
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I drive like a monkey
What, like jumping up and down on in the seat making monkey noises and throwing banana skins out of the windows?
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Old Jul 22nd, 2012, 14:32   #64
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Maybe playing with himself and drinking his own urine?
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Old Jul 26th, 2012, 09:23   #65
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Oil takes longer to heat and longer to cool. Water is similar to aluminium and oil to steel in those regards.
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Old Jul 26th, 2012, 22:33   #66
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I think a redline is there to be used from time to time. However, I think 2,500-3,000 rpm on a cold petrol engine is about the maximum amount of revs to ensure longevity. It really grates me when I see people with great cars 'racing' their engines from cold. With regards to modern Diesel engines, I think 'blowing the cobbwebs out' every so often is the best thing you could do. DPF filters do get clogged and ironically a constant economical driving style will compound the problem.

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Old Jul 27th, 2012, 15:45   #67
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Oil takes longer to heat and longer to cool. Water is similar to aluminium and oil to steel in those regards.
Dude, you're wrong. Specific heat of mineral oil is 1.67KJ/KgK and water's is 4.19 KJ/KgK, which means you need to supply more then twice as much energy to water to raise it's temperature by 1 Kelvin. Please make sure you know what you are talking about before you voice your opinion...
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Old Jul 30th, 2012, 12:45   #68
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You are correct, Bart.

So why, then, is oil such a poor heat conductor and water a much better heat conductor? It seems like water takes a lot of energy to heat up - which is why the thermostat is there, to limit the amount of water needed to be heated - but is also very willing to exchange the heat absorbed with the air surroning it. Oil, OTOH, takes less than half the energy to heat yet is unwilling to lose the heat it's absorbed. To me, this doesn't seem logical as you usually think fast in/fast out (or the opposite). Obviously, there are much more to this than my lacking logic have grasped.
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Old Jul 30th, 2012, 13:09   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v40bart View Post
Dude, you're wrong. Specific heat of mineral oil is 1.67KJ/KgK and water's is 4.19 KJ/KgK, which means you need to supply more then twice as much energy to water to raise it's temperature by 1 Kelvin. Please make sure you know what you are talking about before you voice your opinion...
Okay, now I am really confused.

Let me get this right - Oil is quicker to heat up than water and retains more heat longer than water?

Is that right? So, with this in mind, When my water temperature is up to desired temp the oil in the engine will have already of got to that the desired temp well before the water?
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Old Jul 30th, 2012, 13:22   #70
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Not really, you need to consider what the oil does in comparision with what the coolant does and the areas of the engine they circulate in.
Modern oil viscosities are now frequently lower to enable cooler oil to get around the motor faster, cooler being less viscous (runny). This helps to eliminate wear on an engine with maximum tolerances as are found when a engine is cold.
Coolant surrounds the cylinder head and the block / barrels / liners, all high heat areas, but the bulk of the oil is contained within the sump, a realtively cool area of an engine.
That larger volume of oil takes longer to heat even though it`s pumped at prressure around the rest of the engine.
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