'98 V70 D5252T engine vibrations - Page 2

EVOLVOLUTION · Oct 23rd, 2012, 21:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Galaxie390

The car starts & runs fine, but strangely the mpg dropped dramatically after the belt swap?? .

Just been reading this one-----maybe you've answered your own question----------only a thought---------COL...........

Galaxie390 · Oct 25th, 2012, 00:36

Hi Evolvolution,

I wish it was a straightforward as the can belt, but the vibration was there before I had the belts done.

In my head I was hoping the belt change and re-time would sort it out...no luck!

Thanks for chipping in though, any others ideas?????????

Ta,

Rich

mickeyboy2007 · Oct 25th, 2012, 19:24

Any luck yet? I tried a little experiment with mine to try and simulate what your experiencing... As mine is a manual, I applied the handbrake and put it in first, raised the clutch until my engine vibrates/ shaking, it went down to near 500 rpm and then was literally shaking the car as it was struggling to run. What's your engine idle speed when it vibrates badly?

I have seen a post elsewhere that mentions replacing the sensor on the injector.

Vadis calls for the car to be plugged in upon changing the cam belt to compare timing against engine tempture tolerance.

Has previous work that has been carried out disturbed one of the many wires and connections to various sensors? I just changed the thermostat on mine, and in doing so broke a small wire near the alternator, producing no error light but the engine is limping at about 50% power it should have, one little wire makes all that difference it seems.

One other thing that could effect the running at idle is a leak in the manifold...

Galaxie390 · Oct 30th, 2012, 10:17

Hi Guys,

Knowing the company that did the belt change I would definately thought they would have used the correct procedures.

Another thing cam up the other day though. I met up with 95RN850VOLVO to get a couple of 15" steel rims off him (Thanks!!) for winter tyres. We got talking about this vibration, and he sat in the car and agreed it was far worse than the 850 tdi he used to have.

So, we got looking a little closer, 95RN850VOLVO felt the engine was sitting at the wrong angle. Either the back (bulkhead side) was too high or the front was too low. Gut feeling was the back being too high.

I'm wondering if I somehow fitted the 2 new hydraulic engine mounts in the wrong position. Although they looked identical externally, I wonder if the they had 2 diff part numbers for a reason?

I did notice the wire strap around the front (radiator side) mount was loose enough to slide my finger between it and the body of the mount.

Is anyone else with tdi able to confirm this? If this wire is too loose then it does point the the front mount collapsing (hope not as it was a €100 volvo part that was hell to fit!). This would also explain the gearbox resting back down on the 'bumpstop' under the gearbox again.

Thanks for listening!

Rich

mickeyboy2007 · Oct 30th, 2012, 11:24

I can take a look on vadis for you, see which one goes where. Will do that in the next day or two.

Galaxie390 · Oct 30th, 2012, 17:21

Hi,

The engine mounts I got were:

Engine pad - V01236222-4 (front)
Engine pad - V09434254-0 (rear)

Both were Volvo genuine parts via a main dealer here in Dublin. I had ask the parts guy to check which part number went were for me as there were no markings. Also nothing to indicate up/ down, so I fitted with the wire loop up and over the tops as per the existing mounts I took off (which I'm fairly sure were the origianl ones).

Thanks,
Rich

mickeyboy2007 · Oct 30th, 2012, 22:08

This should be all the info you need. I based it on a 1999 v70 tdi auto. See pics.

Galaxie390 · Oct 30th, 2012, 22:30

Hi there,

Thanks for the pics - it's really appreciated!

I looked through and def fitted items 4 & 9 (the engine pads). I didn't fit items 17,27 & 28 as they looked ok.

Not sure of the next step, think I'll post a photo of bush 35 on the engine steady so you can see how's it forced out of position. Which gives more credence to the engine being at the wrong angle.

I aslo need to check if these two mounts below(or engine pads as Volvo call them) are identical or different. Externally they looked the same with a quick visual check, but I'm wondering if there are internal differences.

Mounts fitted
Engine pad - V01236222-4 (front)
Engine pad - V09434254-0 (rear)

Think I'll try Rufe...

Out of interest, are there any external signs (other than a visible wobble) when a crankshaft damper is starting to breakdown? just wondering...

Ta,
Rich

Galaxie390 · Oct 30th, 2012, 22:36

Ignore my point about there being no up/down indication. I'd forgotten, until I saw the pics from Mickeyboy, you can't fit them any other way...doh!

Rich

PS; it was such a pain the a** job, I'd blanked it out completely ; )

Quote:

Originally Posted by Galaxie390

Hi,

The engine mounts I got were:

Engine pad - V01236222-4 (front)
Engine pad - V09434254-0 (rear)

Both were Volvo genuine parts via a main dealer here in Dublin. I had ask the parts guy to check which part number went were for me as there were no markings. Also nothing to indicate up/ down, so I fitted with the wire loop up and over the tops as per the existing mounts I took off (which I'm fairly sure were the origianl ones).

Thanks,
Rich

mickeyboy2007 · Oct 31st, 2012, 01:31

If you had fitted the front pad to the rear and the rear pad to the front, my suggestion if there was no visual difference to the pads maybe they are of different strength or one a tougher material, internal difference as one side pulls upwards and the other downwards with torque (complete guess, not worked on this myself).

Another total guess stab in the dark, is your bracket 17 bent?

Oct 30th, 2012, 22:30	#18
Galaxie390 Senior Member Last Online: Jul 4th, 2016 23:41 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Naas	Hi there, Thanks for the pics - it's really appreciated! I looked through and def fitted items 4 & 9 (the engine pads). I didn't fit items 17,27 & 28 as they looked ok. Not sure of the next step, think I'll post a photo of bush 35 on the engine steady so you can see how's it forced out of position. Which gives more credence to the engine being at the wrong angle. I aslo need to check if these two mounts below(or engine pads as Volvo call them) are identical or different. Externally they looked the same with a quick visual check, but I'm wondering if there are internal differences. Mounts fitted Engine pad - V01236222-4 (front) Engine pad - V09434254-0 (rear) Think I'll try Rufe... Out of interest, are there any external signs (other than a visible wobble) when a crankshaft damper is starting to breakdown? just wondering... Ta, Rich Last edited by Galaxie390; Oct 30th, 2012 at 22:34.

Oct 25th, 2012, 00:36	#12
Galaxie390 Senior Member Last Online: Jul 4th, 2016 23:41 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Naas	Hi Evolvolution, I wish it was a straightforward as the can belt, but the vibration was there before I had the belts done. In my head I was hoping the belt change and re-time would sort it out...no luck! Thanks for chipping in though, any others ideas????????? Ta, Rich

Oct 25th, 2012, 19:24	#13
mickeyboy2007 Junior Member Last Online: Sep 29th, 2018 12:58 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: high wycombe	Any luck yet? I tried a little experiment with mine to try and simulate what your experiencing... As mine is a manual, I applied the handbrake and put it in first, raised the clutch until my engine vibrates/ shaking, it went down to near 500 rpm and then was literally shaking the car as it was struggling to run. What's your engine idle speed when it vibrates badly? I have seen a post elsewhere that mentions replacing the sensor on the injector. Vadis calls for the car to be plugged in upon changing the cam belt to compare timing against engine tempture tolerance. Has previous work that has been carried out disturbed one of the many wires and connections to various sensors? I just changed the thermostat on mine, and in doing so broke a small wire near the alternator, producing no error light but the engine is limping at about 50% power it should have, one little wire makes all that difference it seems. One other thing that could effect the running at idle is a leak in the manifold...

Oct 30th, 2012, 10:17	#14
Galaxie390 Senior Member Last Online: Jul 4th, 2016 23:41 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Naas	Hi Guys, Knowing the company that did the belt change I would definately thought they would have used the correct procedures. Another thing cam up the other day though. I met up with 95RN850VOLVO to get a couple of 15" steel rims off him (Thanks!!) for winter tyres. We got talking about this vibration, and he sat in the car and agreed it was far worse than the 850 tdi he used to have. So, we got looking a little closer, 95RN850VOLVO felt the engine was sitting at the wrong angle. Either the back (bulkhead side) was too high or the front was too low. Gut feeling was the back being too high. I'm wondering if I somehow fitted the 2 new hydraulic engine mounts in the wrong position. Although they looked identical externally, I wonder if the they had 2 diff part numbers for a reason? I did notice the wire strap around the front (radiator side) mount was loose enough to slide my finger between it and the body of the mount. Is anyone else with tdi able to confirm this? If this wire is too loose then it does point the the front mount collapsing (hope not as it was a €100 volvo part that was hell to fit!). This would also explain the gearbox resting back down on the 'bumpstop' under the gearbox again. Thanks for listening! Rich

Oct 30th, 2012, 11:24	#15
mickeyboy2007 Junior Member Last Online: Sep 29th, 2018 12:58 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: high wycombe	I can take a look on vadis for you, see which one goes where. Will do that in the next day or two.

Oct 30th, 2012, 17:21	#16
Galaxie390 Senior Member Last Online: Jul 4th, 2016 23:41 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Naas	Hi, The engine mounts I got were: Engine pad - V01236222-4 (front) Engine pad - V09434254-0 (rear) Both were Volvo genuine parts via a main dealer here in Dublin. I had ask the parts guy to check which part number went were for me as there were no markings. Also nothing to indicate up/ down, so I fitted with the wire loop up and over the tops as per the existing mounts I took off (which I'm fairly sure were the origianl ones). Thanks, Rich

Oct 31st, 2012, 01:31	#20
mickeyboy2007 Junior Member Last Online: Sep 29th, 2018 12:58 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: high wycombe	If you had fitted the front pad to the rear and the rear pad to the front, my suggestion if there was no visual difference to the pads maybe they are of different strength or one a tougher material, internal difference as one side pulls upwards and the other downwards with torque (complete guess, not worked on this myself). Another total guess stab in the dark, is your bracket 17 bent?

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