I'm still in trouble with my replacement distributor.

[Offgrid]

Yet another update.
I've now got two old distributors. I checked the resistance of the rotor arm, and they both show 1,080 ohms. That seems low according to various internet posts. What is more interesting is that the one with the broken hall sensor casing soins fairly easily. The apparently newer one that I have been using is really tight when turning the rotor. This leads me to suspect that there is some component that has failed under the cover. The is no connection between the rotor arm and the spindle or casing. I'm going to glue the hall sensor into the old one, and see if I have any luck with that.

I'm also trying to find a reasonably priced supplier for the "O" rings. Anything listed for Volvo 740s seems to be vastly overpriced.

[griston64]

https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...oducts_id=4504

Seems reasonable to me

[Chris1Roll]

Re: Timing.

Since you obviously didn't have the chance to put any alignment marks on it before it was removed for you, then check for witness marks from the bolts on the distributors you do have and line it up on them. If there are no marks that you can see, then see this picture from mine that I took to record the part number that happens to show a nice witness mark, and bolt yours in that position - essentially the bolt to the right of the distributor (when viewed from the rear of the car) needs to be roughly in the middle of the slot furthest from the hall sensor:


Also, the terminals on the dizzy cap are NOT in firing order as you might expect, when stood in front of the car looking into the engine bay they in fact go 4-3-1-2 left-to-right:


That'll be good enough to start. If it doesn't, then you can at least know that your problem isn't the position of the distributor or your firing order.

Ultimately you are going to need a timing light to get it set up bang-on once its running.
(TBH given that my B200E still ran and drove -extremely poorly and noisily- with the crank 40deg behind the cam, I'd expect it to at least try and start wherever you put the distributor!)

Seals I got genuine Volvo from Brookhouse I think, they were a reasonable price. I'd get genuine if you can, they are much more likely to actually, you know, seal!

[Offgrid]

I've glued the Hall sensor in place, and I swopped the "O" rings with those on the newer distributor. The post man has just delivered some ratcheting spanners, so I'm working up the enthusiasm to dold the old distributor back on the engine. I'm not bothered about timing at the moment. I just want to get a spark by connecting a plug to the number 4 outlet, and lying tghe plug on the exhaust manifold. If I get a nice fat spark, then I'll connect all the plugs, and rotate the distributor to the same position as the one on my B230E engine in the saloon.
Right at this moment I'm fvrying some mashed potato and eggs. Hopefully that will generate enough enthusiasm to go out into the cold.

[Offgrid]

Final update as I now have a spark.

This morning I fitted the old Bosch distributor, and I now have a spark at the number 4 plug. I haven't refitted all the old plugs, and checked the electrical connections again as it is a bit cold, and I'll do it in the sun tomorrow. However the prospects look good. I cleaned up the old Bosch distributor and ran some emery paper over the rotor connections and the pegs. I sprayed it with contact cleaner, and left if for a day or so. It appears to be working, but I won't really know until I try to start the engine tomorrow.

I'm really stressed about this, as I have spent so much time on the problem, and Imn grateful for all the comments and advice I received in this forum. The problem is almost certainly with the nearly new after market distributor - it is unbranded rubbish as far as I can see. When I've got some time, I'll strip it, and see if I can spot the problem. I guess the answer ids to buy OEM products for the ignition system.

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Offgrid

Final update as I now have a spark.

This morning I fitted the old Bosch distributor, and I now have a spark at the number 4 plug. I haven't refitted all the old plugs, and checked the electrical connections again as it is a bit cold, and I'll do it in the sun tomorrow. However the prospects look good. I cleaned up the old Bosch distributor and ran some emery paper over the rotor connections and the pegs. I sprayed it with contact cleaner, and left if for a day or so. It appears to be working, but I won't really know until I try to start the engine tomorrow.

I'm really stressed about this, as I have spent so much time on the problem, and Imn grateful for all the comments and advice I received in this forum. The problem is almost certainly with the nearly new after market distributor - it is unbranded rubbish as far as I can see. When I've got some time, I'll strip it, and see if I can spot the problem. I guess the answer ids to buy OEM products for the ignition system.

Buy cheap you buy twice !!

[Forrest]

Glad you got this sorted. It would be nice to hear final confirmation that the car is running again when you finish, but it does sound as though you are on the home straight.

I think there is a place for cheap non-OEM parts. I’ve been particularly impressed with some of the non-OEM lamp units given their cost compared to Volvo ones. However, I’d agree that with complicated critical systems like the ignition it’s better to stick to Volvo, Bosch or at least a recognised and reasonably respected brand.

Well done for persevering, especially in the cold weather.

[Offgrid]

Well, it's running at last. It ticks over smoothly at about 600 rpm. Blipping the throttle sounds a bit lumpy so I think I need to fit the new plug leads. The heater isn't working, so I'll flush out the matrix. It may be blocked, and that could be the reason the hose burst.

[Chris1Roll]

Well done for braving the cold. I was running the log splitter with my Dad on the chainsaw today for 4 hours and my fingers were numb within 10 minutes.

You might find it's bogging down a bit trying to rev up from 600rpm.
Wind it up to 900 (when warm) and see what it's like.
You'll also still need to set the timing, then readjust the Idle, then check the timing again- its a bit of an iterative process.
Of course fit the new leads first

(I'm kind of thinking about getting one of those adjustable timing lights with an inductive tach built in for this, as it's effectively two tools in one - technically the rev counter isn't accurate enough, but with these engines I would tend to go more by how it feels - my hot idle is about 1050rpm in neutral so that in D its around 850 which feels reasonably smooth when waiting at lights etc.)

[Offgrid]

So I fired up this morning. It took 4 or 5 swings to get going, and it was a bit hesitant. I warmed it up and drove it for a few yards without any problems. It's still ticking over ( just ) at about 600 rpm, but it gives the impression of wanting to stall if I leave it at that speed. No problems if I go over 1,000. I think the next stage is to change the oil, and the filters. Replace the plugs with the almost new NGKs that came with the saloon, and fit the new plug leads. I'll see what difference that makes before I start experimenting with timing and other bits. The fuel gauge is showing a different reading from that of yesterday, so I may have some earthing problems.

The back box looks as if it will be easy to install. There are a couple of hangers, and they both appear to be in reasonable condition. It looks as if I may have had a good buy, especially as it has been on a sorn for about 15 months, and I didn't do anything when I bought it.