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XC70 (Gen3) Oil Change Procedure

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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 14:02   #1
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Default XC70 (Gen3) Oil Change Procedure

I have just finished another oil change on my 2009 XC70 D5, and thought I would share the procedure in case it helps anyone here:

Tools you need:
1. T30 Torx for the sump splash plate
2. 36mm socket for oil filter housing
3. 17mm socket for sump drain plug
4. new filter (volvo part # 8692305 comes with new sealing o-ring),
5. 6 litres of oil (I used Mobil 1), check oil recommendations for your country
6. Torque wrench would help.
7. Container to catch old oil - at least 6 litres!
8. 40 minutes spare
9. 2 bricks (see below)


Prepare the vehicle as follows:

Warm the car with a short drive (warm oil drains better).

Ground clearance is a bit tight to get under (my car is an XC70 which is a bit higher anyway, and I'm quite slim!). My drive is on a slight slope, so I pointed the car downhill, popped a couple of bricks under the front wheels, and drove the car onto them. The car was then level, and the front raised by 4 inches giving me just enough room to get under and work.

Then get to work:
The sump splash plate is held on by 8 x T30 Torx fasteners into nylon captives, easy to undo.
Off with the sump plug (large drain tray), 17mm socket.

Make sure you have removed the crush washer with the sump plug, and leave to drain. BE READY - the oil comes out fast when the sump plug is removed...and it should be warm/hot...

While oil is draining, use a flattish 36mm socket to crack open the oil filter head (front of engine as per photo):

Once you have removed the filter, it should come off and look like this:

Note the old filter is still in the housing. You can see the part number on the new filter, also that mine came with a new rubber “O” ring for the filter cover, and also a new sump plug washer (worth checking when you buy the filter that you also get the sump plug crush washer). You can also see the 36mm socket – it’s unlikely this will be in a “normal” socket set.

The old filter is a fairly tight fit into it’s domed cover, but once removed it looks like this:

Give it all a good clean, swap the “O” rings for the new one (a smear of grease on the O ring will help it re-seat into it’s housing on reassembly). The filter is a push-fit into the housing (you will feel it “click” home onto it’s seat). Now replace the filter. You may find it easier to tighten (25Nm) the oil filter housing by removing the engine cover (which is a push-fit) and using a long extension bar (see pic):

Re-insert sump plug with new washer, I tightened to 25-30Nm.

You’re now ready to re-fill with new oil.

When you Refill the oil, I suggest you fill with 5 litres initially, and then check the dipstick. Mine was just above the “Min” line on the dipstick with 5 litres. Then fill until it’s at least halfway up the dipstick - probably another half litre.

Start the car, make sure the oil light goes out quickly. Let the car idle for 1 min, then switch off, leave for 5 mins, and then check the dipstick to makle sure it’s at least halfway between the min and max lines. Don’t overfill.

Replace the splash plate under engine - no need to overtighten the Torx T30 fastners as they drive into nylon inserts.

Test drive, tidy up.

I would re-check the oil lever as soon as the car has had a good run, and it’s parked on level ground.

Link to original thread

Last edited by cumbrianmale; Apr 16th, 2012 at 20:48.
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Old Jul 7th, 2012, 14:44   #2
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Last Online: Apr 9th, 2021 16:23
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Eltham, London

Thanks MartinK, good article.

Just a quick note, don't forget the dreaded oil sump overfilling recall, and check the revised dipstick sticker for correct oil fill level on affected cars.
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