1800: P1800ES fuel injection

[VolvoRoyS]

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

A bit late returning to the party; but

This would be the correct operation of the switch and if you have now aligned the wire numbering so that it matches up with this it should be correct - as your recent driving tests seem to indicate.

I've got to say that I wouldn't have solved the problem without your information on the operation of the TPS; where did you find this information?

I have now ordered some parts from that D-jet company you mentioned: new plugs, spade connectors and boots while they are available.

[142 Guy]

Originally Posted by VolvoRoyS

I've got to say that I wouldn't have solved the problem without your information on the operation of the TPS; where did you find this information?

I have now ordered some parts from that D-jet company you mentioned: new plugs, spade connectors and boots while they are available.

The Volvo Fuel Injection Trouble Shooting manual provides the information required to diagnose the TPS including schematics showing the internal configuration. When I still had D jet on my car I think I just tested switch operation from the wire numbers and presumably mine must have been correct from the factory. I don't recall there being numbers on the switch; but, perhaps I just did not look closely enough.

If you are going to redo the spade connectors in the plugs you are probably going to have to do a bit of searching to get the correct open barrel crimping tool. I have a ratcheting style crimper which was supposed to be able to crimp both the conductor strands and the retainers that grab the insulated wire jacket in one step. It required two steps and didn't do a really good job. I suspect the die in the jaws was a little off for the spade connector size used in the D jet system. You might want to see if that D jet company can provide you with some guidance on an appropriate crimping tool and do a Google search on 'crimping open barrel terminals'. Doing good open barrel crimps is not quite the dumb and easy thing that people think it is. As a personal comment, I now prefer the simple two step crimp tools where you crimp the strands and the jacket in separate steps rather than the one step which is common for the Ebay ratchet style crimpers.

[Ron Kwas]

Guys;

Some excerpt info from my notes which should clear up the question of which terminals are where, and what they are connected to:

The 5 Terminal (Cadillac PN 028 120 047) version has Wide Open Throttle (WOT) sensing output added at Blue. An additional internal Slider Contact at Red makes contact and grounds the PCB conductor when in the fully CCW position (only), shown at Green, and this signal is brought out to Terminal 2/14.
The 5 Terminal TPS (PN 028 120 047) can be used, unmodified, in the Volvo application! The WOT sensing as well as Terminal 2/14 are strictly additional to, and only along for the ride in the TPS in terms of the Volvo application. Even the Terminal is located such that the 4 Terminal Connector found in a Volvo, can plug-in without issue! The only thing which should be observed when installing a 5 Terminal TPS into a Volvo is that the connector should be oriented to the left as shown above, so that the WOT Terminal 2/14 is not connected.
[Just as an idea, Terminal 2/14 could conceivably be used in conjunction with additional circuitry in the Volvo application, to disable the Air Conditioning Magnetic Clutch at WOT, and shed its significant mechanical load on the engine (extra VROOOM when needed!)].

I have added the WOT to the previous diagram:


I hope that helps!

[c1800]

“ I don't recall there being numbers on the switch; but, perhaps I just did not look closely enough.”

142G, yours being a ‘71 as mine is, likely had the screw on cover , I’m thinking now that is the Bosch number that ends in 026. No numbers on the screw on casing exist.

And Ron, thanks for the update, I did see a reference online to using a particular 5 pin TPS on the Volvo as well. As time goes by we may be searching for “equivalent” DJet components to keep ours running. DJet as I’m sure you know was used on VW, Porsche, Citroen, Renault, MB, Lancia, Saab, BMW, OPEL, and probably others. And licensed to other manufacturers, including Jaguar, via Lucas. Most surprising is that Bosch originally licensed the technology from Bendix and took off from there.

[142 Guy]

Yes, the cover on my TPS was screw on so that probably explains why I never spotted any numbers.

[volvobysea]

I saw your post on another thread and you say your car is not running correctly.
From my experience the d-jetronic is a good system when running as it should but it sometimes is very difficult to identify faults.
If you have access to the d-jetronic fault tracing manual it is an excellent resource and should help you identify exactly where your problems is.
I would suggest you test the air and water temperature injection sensors, and check that their resistance is within the specifications. I had trouble one day with very rich mixture and I had snapped a connector on the water coolant sensor. Also I would check the fuel injection wiring loom because the B20e engine does run quiet hot and over time the wiring becomes brittle causing a multitude of bad connections. It is very easy to check the injectors are working as they should but you generally need an assistant to cank over the engine for a specified time also for safety reasons as your are working with a petrol.
In my experience the only part of the system that is difficult to check is the pressure sensor.
I hope you can get your car running as it should.

Gavin

[VolvoRoyS]

Gavin,
Thank you for your comments. The remaining problem I have with the engine is that it is running rich as I can see from the sooty deposits coming out of the exhaust pipe. When I first got the car (from Mathewsons' on-line auction) I was aware that it wasn't idling properly. I traced this to a broken connection on wire 17 at the TPS and that the connections to the TPS had been reversed. I now know that my car is fitted with the later TPS where the connections are rotated 180 degrees. However, even though I got the car to idle and respond to the accelerator there remained a phase during warm-up when the engine would stall. I checked out both the air sensor and coolant sensor and decided that the coolant censor was faulty and have replaced it. I have tested it only once but that problem now seems cured, so am left with a rich mixture.
I am aware that the wiring to the coolant sensor can go bad and assume that means the resistance will increase giving a false reading from the coolant sensor. I have checked wire 32 (the ground wire) to the coolant sensor and found a resistance of just 1 ohm so conclude that the wire is good. I don't want to check the other wire (23) as it goes to the ECU and didn't want to put a current through it and just assume that it will also be OK.
So that leaves the injectors. I haven't taken them out yet and would appreciate any advice you can give me on testing injectors as I am a bit wary of petrol spraying about. I thought I might just be able to take out the injectors and switch on the ignition which allows the pump to operate and pressure the system. Then check for drips from the injectors. What do you think?

Roy

[volvobysea]

Roy,
The way that I have checked the injectors is
Remove the clips that secure the four injectors in turn leaving them attached to the fuel rail, be careful as there are small rubber grommets that can easily be lost that are located at the base of the injector holder. It is a good idea to see what they are like because you need a good seal there.
Source 4 small glass jars that can catch the fuel coming out of the injector, make sure the injector is inside the container so no fuel can leak out. It is quite fiddly but can be done.
Have an assistant crank over the engine for a set time I think I did 30 seconds.
You can see the injector spray pattern, the quantity of fuel given out by each injector, also watch for leaks when you have finished cranking.
Clearly if you have a faulty injector(s) the quantity of fuel will be different in each of the jars.
Also be careful when working on the fuel system and ensure good ventilation.
I can't remember the specs for the quantity of fuel but if you PM me your e-mail address, I will hopefully be able to dig out a couple of helpful documents to tell you the specifications and also how to troubleshoot your rich mixture issue. I am sure you can find this if you search this forum as I have found out most of my information that way.
Out of interest have you looked at your spark plugs to see if all the plugs are black or is it just one or two? as there may be other reasons why you have a rich mixture.

Gavin

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by VolvoRoyS

Gavin,
Thank you for your comments. The remaining problem I have with the engine is that it is running rich as I can see from the sooty deposits coming out of the exhaust pipe. When I first got the car (from Mathewsons' on-line auction) I was aware that it wasn't idling properly. I traced this to a broken connection on wire 17 at the TPS and that the connections to the TPS had been reversed. I now know that my car is fitted with the later TPS where the connections are rotated 180 degrees. However, even though I got the car to idle and respond to the accelerator there remained a phase during warm-up when the engine would stall. I checked out both the air sensor and coolant sensor and decided that the coolant censor was faulty and have replaced it. I have tested it only once but that problem now seems cured, so am left with a rich mixture.
I am aware that the wiring to the coolant sensor can go bad and assume that means the resistance will increase giving a false reading from the coolant sensor. I have checked wire 32 (the ground wire) to the coolant sensor and found a resistance of just 1 ohm so conclude that the wire is good. I don't want to check the other wire (23) as it goes to the ECU and didn't want to put a current through it and just assume that it will also be OK.
So that leaves the injectors. I haven't taken them out yet and would appreciate any advice you can give me on testing injectors as I am a bit wary of petrol spraying about. I thought I might just be able to take out the injectors and switch on the ignition which allows the pump to operate and pressure the system. Then check for drips from the injectors. What do you think?

Roy

First question is, are you sure it's running rich - have you had it on a gas analyser?

Second, what reading does your meter give when you short the probes together? Most meters will show ~0.3-0.7 Ohms so you need to subtract that from the 1 Ohm you've measured on the first wire.

Next, you can connect a slave wire to the engine bay end of the ECU wire and make sure it's long enough to reach the ECU - now put one probe of your meter on the pin that wire goes to and the other on the other end of the slave wire and measure the resistance of the ECU wire from the sensor. Then once you have a (corrected) figure (subtract the meter probes resistance from the total) then measure the resistance of the slave wire and subtract that also.
This means no current will go through the ECU.

First thing i would do is get it on a gas analyser (Gunsons Gastesters are good for this but no longer as cheap as they once were!) whether it's your own or perhaps bung a "donation" into the garage tea boat for a few minutes use of theirs on the manual setting when they're not using it for MoT just to see what you've actually got to start with.

Fuel these days has a much higher water content and can present at the tailpipe as sooty because it's washing the soot from the inside of the exhaust and exiting as black steam.

You may well find out that the idle mixture is as it should be and not need to do anything else. Note the B18E runs rich compared to modern cars, i can't remember the exact figures but something in the back of my mind says 2%CO +1%/-0.5% at idle and adjust to 2% if adjustment is needed. If i'm wrong in my memory, i'm sure someone will correct those figures!

[VolvoRoyS]

Originally Posted by volvobysea

Out of interest have you looked at your spark plugs to see if all the plugs are black or is it just one or two? as there may be other reasons why you have a rich mixture.

Gavin

I have checked the spark plugs. First thing I did when I got the car was points, ignition timing, valve adjustment and plugs. Plugs were sooty but looked new so didn't replace them. However, recently the engine developed a misfire while I was testing. I took the plugs out again and found #1 was wet as well as black; other 3 were just black. I discovered #1 plug lead had a resistance of 14K Ohms, whereas all the others were around the 7K Ohms. I have fixed the plug lead. I also noticed that the plugs were NGK type BPR6HS, the R indicating resistance which I found to be 5K Ohms, so fitted a new set of NGK plugs type BP6HS (as supplied by Brookhouse), which have a resistance of zero Ohms. That seemed to cure the misfire.

I'll PM you my email address for the documentation.

Roy