Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General

Notices

PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

New (to me) 1963 Volvo 122

Views : 5387

Replies : 265

Users Viewing This Thread : Othen

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Yesterday, 19:45   #261
Othen
Premier Member
 
Othen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 15:28
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
Alan;

It sounds like you understand the issue and your option well...some comments:

If you don't have the mechanical return force from the GS, but the position detents of Ign Sw Pos 1-3 are still OK, then I agree simply adding a Start Mom Sw would address your switch's issue well, and would be a good option, less difficult than replacement of the entire assembly.

The Momentary switch linked certainly would be adequate from a current rating standpoint, but with a such a high current rating, you might find the mechanism quite hard to activate/push, which might/would become a bother in the long-run! It does not state button force required in the specifications...you might consider a more modestly rated switch at 10-15A, preferably with a snap action.

There is no need to add the complexity of breaking power to Term 54 (Loadshedding) when installing a St Mom Sw, as is done automatically in the OE Ign Sw...just don't activate the St Sw with Wiper or Blower ON...those are the biggest Ign Power Loads. Lights which are an even more significant load aren't even an Ign Power load...they are directly powered by the Battery, so the automatic Loadshedding of the OE Ign doesn't even effect these, and it must be done (and should be!) manually. It is however not necessary to turn the OE Ign Sw to Pos4 to do Loadsheeding...that would be a real bother...simply apply Ign power by turning Ign Key to Pos3, and keep Wipers and Blower Off during Starting attempts.

Cheers

Ps: You don't need my specific permission to repost material from the SW-EM site, but because the 'net being the "freeferall" that it is, there is zero control over who plagiarizes material and where it might be reposted...that's why I have my marked graphics and pix, and I always try to attribute external material myself...so of course it would be nice of you as a courtesy, to mention where they came from...and thanks for that!

PPS: What is GAM?
Wonderful, many thanks for that.

I have thought of a neater way of ensuring load shedding without having to turn off the fan and wipers: I could just use position 3 and then wire a 2 pole switch like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224647279...3ABFBMvpOHn9Rf

from terminal 54 to the common pole such that the NC contact went to the accessories (fan, wipers, BT module) and the NO contact to the starter relay (disconnected from the existing switch of course). That way position 4 would be defunct (electrically) and it would only ever be necessary to turn the switch to position 3 to run the motor car, and press the button to energise the starter whilst simultaneously isolating the accessories.

This particular switch looks rather more obtrusive that I had intended, perhaps I could find a 2 pole device that I could hide away better.

I think this would work fine - but I'd appreciate any comments or advice.

Many thanks for your permission to reproduce your excellent diagram for the key positions and ccts, I've included it here for completeness:



Many thanks,

Alan

PS. GAM is Great Aunt Maud - because the motor car is several generations older than my 1980 Volvo 244 - and Maud seemed to suit.
__________________

Last edited by Othen; Yesterday at 20:56. Reason: Grammar.
Othen is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post:
Old Yesterday, 20:54   #262
Ron Kwas
Premier Member
 
Ron Kwas's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 13:08
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
Default

Alan;

The linked switch does not give current rating in the first place, in the second place it is a chinas**t product, so you likely couldn't trust their generous (often outright lies) specified rating anyway. ...finally, and from the terminals visible, it looks like a switch rated for no more than a couple of Amps...I recommend against it!

Again...special Loadshedding provisions are just not necessary when installing a St Sw...do not overcomplicate this...!

Cheers

PS; OK on GAM... akso e-mail response to your inquiry sent!

Last edited by Ron Kwas; Yesterday at 20:57.
Ron Kwas is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Ron Kwas For This Useful Post:
Old Yesterday, 21:10   #263
Othen
Premier Member
 
Othen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 15:28
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
Alan;

The linked switch does not give current rating in the first place, in the second place it is a chinas**t product, so you likely couldn't trust their generous (often outright lies) specified rating anyway. ...finally, and from the terminals visible, it looks like a switch rated for no more than a couple of Amps...I recommend against it!

Again...special Loadshedding provisions are just not necessary when installing a St Sw...do not overcomplicate this...!

Cheers

PS; OK on GAM... akso e-mail response to your inquiry sent!
Hi Ron,

Thank you again. All your points are agreed: I only posted that particular switch as an example of a 2 pole, but I couldn't see a rating anywhere on it, and it was a bit too big, so I wasn't going to get it.

I take your point about over thinking the load shedding issue, so we'll go for fitting your kit (see my email regarding payment) and get my gorilla spring problem sorted.

Best wishes,

Alan
__________________
Othen is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post:
Old Yesterday, 21:53   #264
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 14:55
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
Alan;

The linked switch does not give current rating in the first place, in the second place it is a chinas**t product, so you likely couldn't trust their generous (often outright lies) specified rating anyway. ...finally, and from the terminals visible, it looks like a switch rated for no more than a couple of Amps...I recommend against it!

Again...special Loadshedding provisions are just not necessary when installing a St Sw...do not overcomplicate this...!

Cheers

PS; OK on GAM... akso e-mail response to your inquiry sent!
I'm with Ron on this Alan - use the "KISS" principle!

Also not sure if Ron means the pushbutton starter switch or the other you linked to (i haven't looked at the other so can't comment) but the pushbutton should be more than up to the job of operating the starter solenoid. Used them many times over the years and not had a problem, or at least ones with a similar if not identical spec to that in the listing. Usually Chinabay stuff doesn't have a comprehensive spec listing and that's for a good reason, as Ron alludes to they're not the highest quality and there will be inconsistencies in the spec that would give them away if they claimed something excessive in one are and it didn't match in another.
__________________
Cheers

Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Rover 827 Sterling and a 765 GLEa V6!
Laird Scooby is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post:
Old Yesterday, 22:18   #265
Othen
Premier Member
 
Othen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 15:28
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
I'm with Ron on this Alan - use the "KISS" principle!

Also not sure if Ron means the pushbutton starter switch or the other you linked to (i haven't looked at the other so can't comment) but the pushbutton should be more than up to the job of operating the starter solenoid. Used them many times over the years and not had a problem, or at least ones with a similar if not identical spec to that in the listing. Usually Chinabay stuff doesn't have a comprehensive spec listing and that's for a good reason, as Ron alludes to they're not the highest quality and there will be inconsistencies in the spec that would give them away if they claimed something excessive in one are and it didn't match in another.
I've gone for Ron's solution Dave - the kit will be in the mail and I'll get my gorilla spring problem sorted (I didn't even know I had a gorilla spring this morn).

:-)
__________________
Othen is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post:
Old Today, 15:28   #266
Othen
Premier Member
 
Othen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 15:28
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby
Default

GAM now has mud flaps all round:



Eagle eyed viewers might recognise the front ones as being re-purposed from those fitted to the RB when I bought that motor car (before I reverted back to the Volvo originals). The stay had fallen off the OSF (some time ago I should think) so I made a new one our of some galvanised right angle section from my scrap box:



... so the cost for materials was nothing (and fortunately I don't charge for my time.

Also today: a new rocker box gasket (actually the old one looked pretty good but the screws were not even finger tight - I might well have got away with just tightening them up a bit) plus oil and filter change. The oil (20W50 mineral) came with the car, also the filter and copper washer are the same as the RB so they came out of my spares box (I think I bought a few of both when Amazon was selling them cheap - so cost about a fiver total.

Whilst under the car I did notice the exhaust bolts (where the manifold meets the pipe) were very loose indeed - everything is nice and tight now - and much less noisy.

:-)
__________________
Othen is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Othen
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 15:29.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.