Amazon: New (to me) 1963 Volvo 122

[Familyman 90]

Originally Posted by Othen

Fascinating chaps, but may I ask that you don't write in green next time - my 61 year old eyes can't read it on the screen :-).

I'm a whippershapper, 63 next month, and I can't read the green at all

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

You’ll have a armoured cable I assume still attached to the coil so if changing the coil be prepared for some operating.

A later red block engine starter motor is a nice upgrade also.

Ah! I'm guessing this is the armoured cable, and so the +ve connection from the ignition switch to the coil:



... would that be right - so on the other end of this (in the engine compartment) is the coil? I'd never come across an arrangement like that.

I see what you mean by needing a little engineering now.

Alan

[Derek UK]

Under that cap is the red wire, positive connection, to the coil. If you carefully use a hole saw just to cut through the cap you can solder on an extra wire to go to a stand alone coil or the positive side of an electronic ignition system. A blanking grommet with a hole in will make the mod almost invisible, and safer.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Under that cap is the red wire, positive connection, to the coil. If you carefully use a hole saw just to cut through the cap you can solder on an extra wire to go to a stand alone coil or the positive side of an electronic ignition system. A blanking grommet with a hole in will make the mod almost invisible, and safer.

ah, I see - much as I thought.. and then leave the old coil in place so things look more or less as normal (except no -ve or HT wires)?

Alan

Addendum: I found a picture:



... so the ignition key, armoured cable and coil are all one component - how bizarre.

On reflection, I think it would be a pity to lose that originality, so I'll either just stick with breaker points (I'm warming to that idea, I had a look at that today, accessibility is good (which is just as well, the ones fitted are quite badly pitted and need to be changed soon) - or just run a +ve wire in the way you say to a replacement electronic ignition unit and keep the same coil. I can't find the coil's primary impedance in the green book, but I'm guessing it would be something like 2-4 Ohm?

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

ah, I see - much as I thought.. and then leave the old coil in place so things look more or less as normal (except no -ve or HT wires)?

Alan

That's pretty much it Alan then mount the new coil in a convenient place and run the new ignitor/pick-up into the dizzy with the wiring back to the coil (+ve and -ve i believe) - the Amazon owners that have done the mod can give you better information than i can on this though.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That's pretty much it Alan then mount the new coil in a convenient place and run the new ignitor/pick-up into the dizzy with the wiring back to the coil (+ve and -ve i believe) - the Amazon owners that have done the mod can give you better information than i can on this though.

Many thanks Dave,

See my addendum above - I can't find the impedance of that coil (Bosch ZS/KZ 1/12A (14/3)) and it might be a tad difficult to measure because of the armoured cable. I wonder if the cable incorporates some sort of ballast resistor arrangement?

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

Many thanks Dave,

See my addendum above - I can't find the impedance of that coil (Bosch ZS/KZ 1/12A (14/3)) and it might be a tad difficult to measure because of the armoured cable. I wonder if the cable incorporates some sort of balance resistor arrangement?

Alan

This is a total guess Alan but i suspect there is a +12V feed from the ignition switch to the base of the coil (now i can see it in its entirity) and a Bowden cable that moves a contact to bridge out a ballast resistor in the base of the coil when the key is turned to the start position.
It would explain the necessity to use an armoured cable at least.

Easiest method is as you say, run a +12V wire from the ignition switch to the new coil and then fit your new pick-up/ignitor or keep a spare set of points and condensor in the boot with the right screwdriver and a set of feeler guages - i think the gap is 0.45-0.50mm from memory but that's digging way back to 35+ years ago and as previously mentioned, ideally set them with a dwell meter for accuracy.

[c1800]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

This is a total guess Alan but i suspect there is a +12V feed from the ignition switch to the base of the coil (now i can see it in its entirity) and a Bowden cable that moves a contact to bridge out a ballast resistor in the base of the coil when the key is turned to the start position.
It would explain the necessity to use an armoured cable at least.

Easiest method is as you say, run a +12V wire from the ignition switch to the new coil and then fit your new pick-up/ignitor or keep a spare set of points and condensor in the boot with the right screwdriver and a set of feeler guages - i think the gap is 0.45-0.50mm from memory but that's digging way back to 35+ years ago and as previously mentioned, ideally set them with a dwell meter for accuracy.

The only thing inside the cable is a wire to supply the 12 V + to the coil when the ignition is switched on. I have seen reference to removing the guts of the old coil and installing a new one in its place to retain the original look.

The armoured cable arrangement while unusual, was an anti theft arrangement.

The coil spec is 3-3.5 Ohms, and there is no ballast resistor.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

This is a total guess Alan but i suspect there is a +12V feed from the ignition switch to the base of the coil (now i can see it in its entirity) and a Bowden cable that moves a contact to bridge out a ballast resistor in the base of the coil when the key is turned to the start position.
It would explain the necessity to use an armoured cable at least.

Easiest method is as you say, run a +12V wire from the ignition switch to the new coil and then fit your new pick-up/ignitor or keep a spare set of points and condensor in the boot with the right screwdriver and a set of feeler guages - i think the gap is 0.45-0.50mm from memory but that's digging way back to 35+ years ago and as previously mentioned, ideally set them with a dwell meter for accuracy.

This has been a really useful investigation Dave - in that case I think a properly set up CB distributor is probably the best solution. They need changing anyway, I'll do that tomorrow.

Alan

[Burdekin]

A guy I know just changed his armoured coil for a new one and slotted it inside the old coil housing.