Amazon: New (to me) 1963 Volvo 122

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

Alan;

It sounds like you understand the issue and your option well...some comments:

If you don't have the mechanical return force from the GS, but the position detents of Ign Sw Pos 1-3 are still OK, then I agree simply adding a Start Mom Sw would address your switch's issue well, and would be a good option, less difficult than replacement of the entire assembly.

The Momentary switch linked certainly would be adequate from a current rating standpoint, but with a such a high current rating, you might find the mechanism quite hard to activate/push, which might/would become a bother in the long-run! It does not state button force required in the specifications...you might consider a more modestly rated switch at 10-15A, preferably with a snap action.

There is no need to add the complexity of breaking power to Term 54 (Loadshedding) when installing a St Mom Sw, as is done automatically in the OE Ign Sw...just don't activate the St Sw with Wiper or Blower ON...those are the biggest Ign Power Loads. Lights which are an even more significant load aren't even an Ign Power load...they are directly powered by the Battery, so the automatic Loadshedding of the OE Ign doesn't even effect these, and it must be done (and should be!) manually. It is however not necessary to turn the OE Ign Sw to Pos4 to do Loadsheeding...that would be a real bother...simply apply Ign power by turning Ign Key to Pos3, and keep Wipers and Blower Off during Starting attempts.

Cheers

Ps: You don't need my specific permission to repost material from the SW-EM site, but because the 'net being the "freeferall" that it is, there is zero control over who plagiarizes material and where it might be reposted...that's why I have my marked graphics and pix, and I always try to attribute external material myself...so of course it would be nice of you as a courtesy, to mention where they came from...and thanks for that!

PPS: What is GAM?

Wonderful, many thanks for that.

I have thought of a neater way of ensuring load shedding without having to turn off the fan and wipers: I could just use position 3 and then wire a 2 pole switch like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224647279...3ABFBMvpOHn9Rf

from terminal 54 to the common pole such that the NC contact went to the accessories (fan, wipers, BT module) and the NO contact to the starter relay (disconnected from the existing switch of course). That way position 4 would be defunct (electrically) and it would only ever be necessary to turn the switch to position 3 to run the motor car, and press the button to energise the starter whilst simultaneously isolating the accessories.

This particular switch looks rather more obtrusive that I had intended, perhaps I could find a 2 pole device that I could hide away better.

I think this would work fine - but I'd appreciate any comments or advice.

Many thanks for your permission to reproduce your excellent diagram for the key positions and ccts, I've included it here for completeness:



Many thanks,

Alan

PS. GAM is Great Aunt Maud - because the motor car is several generations older than my 1980 Volvo 244 - and Maud seemed to suit.

[Ron Kwas]

Alan;

The linked switch does not give current rating in the first place, in the second place it is a chinas**t product, so you likely couldn't trust their generous (often outright lies) specified rating anyway. ...finally, and from the terminals visible, it looks like a switch rated for no more than a couple of Amps...I recommend against it!

Again...special Loadshedding provisions are just not necessary when installing a St Sw...do not overcomplicate this...!

Cheers

PS; OK on GAM... akso e-mail response to your inquiry sent!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

Alan;

The linked switch does not give current rating in the first place, in the second place it is a chinas**t product, so you likely couldn't trust their generous (often outright lies) specified rating anyway. ...finally, and from the terminals visible, it looks like a switch rated for no more than a couple of Amps...I recommend against it!

Again...special Loadshedding provisions are just not necessary when installing a St Sw...do not overcomplicate this...!

Cheers

PS; OK on GAM... akso e-mail response to your inquiry sent!

Hi Ron,

Thank you again. All your points are agreed: I only posted that particular switch as an example of a 2 pole, but I couldn't see a rating anywhere on it, and it was a bit too big, so I wasn't going to get it.

I take your point about over thinking the load shedding issue, so we'll go for fitting your kit (see my email regarding payment) and get my gorilla spring problem sorted.

Best wishes,

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

Alan;

The linked switch does not give current rating in the first place, in the second place it is a chinas**t product, so you likely couldn't trust their generous (often outright lies) specified rating anyway. ...finally, and from the terminals visible, it looks like a switch rated for no more than a couple of Amps...I recommend against it!

Again...special Loadshedding provisions are just not necessary when installing a St Sw...do not overcomplicate this...!

Cheers

PS; OK on GAM... akso e-mail response to your inquiry sent!

I'm with Ron on this Alan - use the "KISS" principle!

Also not sure if Ron means the pushbutton starter switch or the other you linked to (i haven't looked at the other so can't comment) but the pushbutton should be more than up to the job of operating the starter solenoid. Used them many times over the years and not had a problem, or at least ones with a similar if not identical spec to that in the listing. Usually Chinabay stuff doesn't have a comprehensive spec listing and that's for a good reason, as Ron alludes to they're not the highest quality and there will be inconsistencies in the spec that would give them away if they claimed something excessive in one are and it didn't match in another.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I'm with Ron on this Alan - use the "KISS" principle!

Also not sure if Ron means the pushbutton starter switch or the other you linked to (i haven't looked at the other so can't comment) but the pushbutton should be more than up to the job of operating the starter solenoid. Used them many times over the years and not had a problem, or at least ones with a similar if not identical spec to that in the listing. Usually Chinabay stuff doesn't have a comprehensive spec listing and that's for a good reason, as Ron alludes to they're not the highest quality and there will be inconsistencies in the spec that would give them away if they claimed something excessive in one are and it didn't match in another.

I've gone for Ron's solution Dave - the kit will be in the mail and I'll get my gorilla spring problem sorted (I didn't even know I had a gorilla spring this morn).

:-)

[Othen]

GAM now has mud flaps all round:



Eagle eyed viewers might recognise the front ones as being re-purposed from those fitted to the RB when I bought that motor car (before I reverted back to the Volvo originals). The stay had fallen off the OSF (some time ago I should think) so I made a new one out of some galvanised right angle section from my scrap box:



... so the cost for materials was nothing (and fortunately I don't charge for my time).

Also today: a new rocker box gasket (actually the old one looked pretty good but the screws were not even finger tight - I might well have got away with just tightening them up a bit) plus oil and filter change. The oil (20W50 mineral) came with the car, also the filter and copper washer are the same as the RB so they came out of my spares box (I think I bought a few of both when Amazon was selling them cheap - so cost about a fiver total).

Whilst under the car I did notice the exhaust bolts (where the manifold meets the pipe) were very loose indeed - everything is nice and tight now - and much less noisy.

:-)

[Moomoo]

Looking good chap 👍👍😀

[142 Guy]

I am guessing that rocker box cover is east side of Atlantic English for valve cover. Be careful with tightening the retaining screws, particularly with the cork like gaskets. The pressed steel valve covers are easily distorted around the mounting holes which causes them to develop gaps between the mounting holes which then leads to more leaking oil. IPD (and I think others) sell hold down kits which do a better job of distributing the clamping force thus minimizing distortion.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5747...lvo-Ipd-100856

Since you appear 'handy', a little scrap aluminum, a hack saw and an electric drill would probably yield something equally effective.

My solution is a clean gasket with Hylomar (or some other non hardening sealant) applied to both surfaces of the gasket. The valve cover is essentially glued in place and the retaining screws are mostly for show. I like Hylomar (or its Permatex knock off) because unlike some other non hardening sealants removal is fairly easy. Hylomar blue is the darling of small aircraft mechanics because of the requirement for regular inspection.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

I am guessing that rocker box cover is east side of Atlantic English for valve cover. Be careful with tightening the retaining screws, particularly with the cork like gaskets. The pressed steel valve covers are easily distorted around the mounting holes which causes them to develop gaps between the mounting holes which then leads to more leaking oil. IPD (and I think others) sell hold down kits which do a better job of distributing the clamping force thus minimizing distortion.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5747...lvo-Ipd-100856

Since you appear 'handy', a little scrap aluminum, a hack saw and an electric drill would probably yield something equally effective.

My solution is a clean gasket with Hylomar (or some other non hardening sealant) applied to both surfaces of the gasket. The valve cover is essentially glued in place and the retaining screws are mostly for show. I like Hylomar (or its Permatex knock off) because unlike some other non hardening sealants removal is fairly easy. Hylomar blue is the darling of small aircraft mechanics because of the requirement for regular inspection.

I’m fairly fluent in American (I lived in Virginia for 3 years in a previous life) - we are talking about the same tin box on top of the engine.

I’ve come across these previously on Delores (a P1800ES I help look after for another forum member). I’m a bit old fashioned and still stick cork gaskets in with a layer of machine grease each side. I’m convinced the key to making sure these covers don’t leak is turning down the four screws equally. I do this a quarter of a turn at at time by hand.

Thank you for the advice regarding Hylomar, if ever I get a cover that won’t seal I’ll give it a go (always assuming it is available here in Blighty, but we have electricity and inside toilets these days).

Many thanks,

Alan

PS. My apology; I have just noticed you are a Canadian rather than an American - and so altogether more civilised.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Moomoo

Looking good chap 👍👍😀

Thank you Andrew,

I’m really enjoying sorting out GAM, the RB was like this when I first bought it two years ago, but GAM is 20 years older and so still surprising me.

I’m conscious that I’m neglecting the Royal Barge at the mo, but then it is at a stage where nothing much ever goes wrong with it.

:-)

Alan