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Ecm 6805 and boost related issues

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Old May 6th, 2012, 15:53   #11
S60KSX
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Still no recurrence of Limp Mode after a few thousand miles and five months, by regularly "exercising" the turbo as above. Well chuffed.
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Old Feb 24th, 2013, 22:48   #12
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I've had a lot of problems over the last many months with this fault code, see here:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=163422

Well, the saga finally ends!

After much investigation and replacement of parts that looked or tested as marginal, including a new intercooler - estimated £50 test v £120 replacement seemed a waste of money so just replaced it - and a full EGR clean without improvement, I resorted to applying logic and started looking outside of the normal ECM6805 causes listed in VIDA.

Turns out that the new exhaust front section 1st CAT had come adrift internally and was restricting exhaust flow causing poor flow at the turbo and low boost. Luckily I had retained the old, fractured exhaust so I had the old parts re-welded by a local fab shop for £40 (they wern't corroded, just fractured, but that's another Kwik-Fit useless parts story!) and substituted the old for new.

BINGO! The beast is back!

When all else fails, check the improbable. Perhaps the exhaust condition should be added to the list of ECM6805 checks?

Many thanks for all the help from the forum members over the last many months.

Steve
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Old Apr 13th, 2013, 17:41   #13
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Dear Outnumbered,

you look like a expert on volvo's, mabey you could help me.. (wanted to send you a PM but need 30 posts to do that and as i just bought the volvo i don't have these yet)

i bougth a V50 2004, the only trouble i expirianced was no boost bellow the 2200 rpm and no error's on the dash, so hoped a vacuum hose lose or something like that (what i think is strange cause you should get a service light?!)

did a diagnostic and got the reading "U0301 Software Incompatibility with ECM/PCM"
thought this was because it was chipped but i found out i got no fuse (20A) in the ECM/PCM slot and no fuse in the vacuum pump slot...

could you mabey take a look at my theat?
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=177588


i would really apriciate it!

kind regards,
Freek from Holland
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Old Jul 6th, 2013, 01:39   #14
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Great info - need to work through this again.

Steve O.
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Old Aug 7th, 2013, 17:10   #15
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Don't forget to check that all your hoses are correctly positioned and correctly fitted for the exhaust manifold/turbo. My 6805 was down to this after an engine install. Too much air getting in ran the engine lean, leading to 6805 & melted pistons.
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Old Sep 28th, 2013, 08:59   #16
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Had the dreaded limp mode issue on my V70 D5 - Read all the posts here and thought it might need a turbo clean etc.

Applied a little lateral thinking and used Redex for diesel in the next few tanks full - hey presto, all fixed and runs like new for less that £10.

If there's a problem try the simple things first ;-)
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Old Dec 6th, 2013, 21:59   #17
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Default MAP sensor fault

Thanks for the in depth report - priceless for anyone having these issues like myself. I checked bloody everything and it was so intermittent I couldn't trace it. Using a generic fault code reader P0244 kept coming up, but when I tried a different one from a garage 6805 was the reading. Manifold absolute pressure was the problem, sensor was at fault. I removed it, took for a spin for a couple of days and no issues at all with less grey smoke than before. Replaced with a new one (incredibly hard to put back in by the way because of the rubber seal) and sorted at last! A good or appropriate code reader is an absolute as the fault p0244 had me running around in circles!
Hope this helps someone
Karl
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Old Dec 16th, 2013, 22:34   #18
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=4+Port+Fast+Spe...plitter+Cable+
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Old Feb 25th, 2015, 22:29   #19
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When you say 45hg vacuum, is it in mm-hg or in-hg?

Last edited by Torsen; Feb 25th, 2015 at 23:29.
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Old Mar 1st, 2015, 23:36   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outnumbered View Post
there seems to be a lot of the above rearing its ugly head so i have put together a list of what may be the culprit and a what to check and how to check..
first picture tells you what the code is with an explanation.
things to check are.
INTERCOOLER.
check the tell tale sign by looking under the front bumper you will see oil deposits and also by looking down in the engine bay between the engine and the cooling fan at the bottom, if you still suspect the INTERCOOLER you can have it presure tested insitu.
ENGINE MOUNTS.
front and rear. these receive vac at idle, over 1500rpm the are deactivated.to check these to see if they are leaking block them off and take it for a spin if you still get any issues then its not them.
VNT.
the vnt is activated by vac. to test to ensure the vacuum regulator and lever are working as it should you will need a MITTY VAC,
http://www.uktools.com/mityvac-auto-...2bcc01cbdb1ef7
this is better to get to from under the car on ramps, connect the mitty vac to the regulator in line and create a vacuum the arm should move freely until it stops if it does not there is too much carbon build up on the veins have a look here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWyN5...eature=related.
if it is not smooth use the mitty vac to try and free it.carbon build up is the main culprit, italian tune up comes to mind.
TCV
turbo control valve, this is just to activate the engine pads, there is a direct feed from the vac pump to the TCV and then to the engine pads. to check if this is working if you have the volvo diagnostic kit there is a test you can do on there failing that you can hook a vac gauge in line one of these.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vacuum-Fuel-...4193334&sr=8-9.
at tickover it should read about 5 hg rev it past 1500rpm and the needle should not move on the gauge. the line in to the TCV from the vac pump should be approx 45 hg at 2500rpm.
TCG.
turbo control governor which is bolted to the engine see this post for identification.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=122032.
to test this connect vac gauge to out port on TCG in line and the reading should be approx at idle 5hg at 2000 rpm 43hg at 2500 rpm it drops down to 35 hg. there is also a test on vida to check that the VNT is working picture 2.
SOFT CHARGE AIR HOSE.
this is the hose that connects to the turbo check this post.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...air+inlet+hose.
when it get old and goes soft excuse the pun it will under load squash and will restrict the air flow to the turbo. also check all other intake hoses.
INJECTOR TEST.
to ensure that you have no issues with the injectors have a leak of test done.
VAC PUMP.
this is situated at the side of the fuel injection pump, this provides vacuum to the TCV and the TCG, connect a vac gauge in line and the reading should be approx at 2500 rpm 45 hg.
FUEL FILTER.
change it
the above hg figures where taken from my car today and as far as i am aware i have no boost issues.
i hope that the above info will point you in the right direction of what to check and the possible fixes,ECM6805 is time consuming and if put into a garage could be expensive to rectify.good luck on your quest and hope that the above will help you .
thanks to all that have posted in the links that i have provided.
mike
Thanks Mike
I have a V70 D5 163bhp 2004 with around 115k. I had the dreaded ECM6805 code diagnosed by a local garage but they weren’t sure how to resolve the issue as Volvos are not their specialism. Booked the car in with the main dealer who confirmed the code running a diagnostics and investigation (costing £60) to test the vac lines which showed no issues and suggested I rebook the car in for a further diagnostics assessment by the Master Technician (who was on holiday at the time of the first visit). I declined their offer of paying a further £100 and decided to carry out searches on the web and I landed at the Volvo Forum. I came across your post with what seemed to be a very useful guide/checklist to work through which would hopefully eliminate the problem and restore the V70 D5 back to its former best. I am not a mechanic and am going through a steep learning curve.
As I was on a tight budget, the first job I decided to tackle bizarrely (for the cost of the gasket set) was to get the turbo out and give the internals a de-coke. Having read up how to do it (I did find a really good set of step by step instructions) ... how hard could it be! 12 hours later job done. Fire up the engine, sounds fine and took car for a spin. Wonderful, accelerate hard and pulled like a train. Revved well past the 2500rpm problem point and no sign of any problems ... for about 3 weeks. Then the problem came back. That was last October. More surfing the web as a result.
I have recently invested some more time and money trying resolve the problem including the following new parts:
1. New Turbo Control Governor (operating the turbo actuator)
2. New Turbo Control Valve (for the engine mounts)
3. All the small bore rubber vacuum pipes replaced with silicone hoses (used 5mm int dia).
I have invested in a Mity Vac as identified in your article to check all the vac pipe pressures and this is now where I hit a strange anomaly. According to your article the main vac pressure at idle should be around 45 Hg. My Mity vac only goes up to 30 Hg but I only get an idle pressure of 22 Hg. Revving up to 2500rpm this figure rises slightly to 24.5 Hg and doesn’t go any higher.
Using the Mity in line between the TCV and the engine mount at idle is 22 Hg (which give the softer engine mounts). Increasing the revs above around 1100rpm the reading drops to 0 Hg (meaning harder mounts) and doesn’t change once over 1200rpm.
Working from underneath (it seemed easier) I connected directly to the VNT and the arm moves pretty smoothly in and out using the Mity vac. I did this several times just to make sure. Then connecting the Mity in line with the VNT I get the following readings. At idle 22 Hg, at 1500rpm 21Hg, at 2000rpm 14 Hg, 2500rpm 11 Hg, 3000rpm 8 Hg and at 3500rpm around 6 Hg. It is these readings on the VNT side of the TCG that baffle me. The article I says the reading at idle is 5Hg, at 2000rpm 43Hg and at 2500rpm 35Hg. My readings seem to do the complete opposite curve.
I thought I was very systematic in changing all the vac pipes by only changing one length at a time to avoid mixing up which vac pipe connected to the inlet and outlet ports on the TCV and TCG. Is it possible that I have still managed to transpose them somehow? For ease of identification I even used different colour silicone hoses for the turbo pipe and vac inlet.
A test run in the car after changing the vac lines, TCG and TCV has made no difference under hard acceleration. Under very gentle acceleration building up the revs in 4th very very slowly on a long stretch of dual carriageway we got to 3500rpm with no issues. Once I had eased off and then tried to overtake ‘with gusto’ same old problem .... instant limp mode which is real a problem halfway through overtaking!
The next item on the list to change seems to be the turbo fresh air intake hose. My local dealer has offered me the bottom hose only for a mere £74 or the entire hose from the air box to the turbo for £93 including the metal section. To ease the pain (his words) he was prepared to offer a 10% discount to me. I have seen the bottom hose (not OEM) on Ebay for £28. The dealer also said he often sells a sensor (£93) on the intercooler outlet pipe at the same time when people are replacing the turbo air inlet pipes. I’ve not seen any mention of this on any of the posts that I have read. Anybody come across this one?
Any help, comments or advice on any of the above would be appreciated. I’m running out of ideas (and money) to resolve this matter to a successful conclusion.
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