Door Hinge Adjustment:~

[Bob Meadows]

1988 Volvo 240 Estate driver’s door hinge adjustment: ~
The top corner of the door window frame had been catching the body frame –not a great deal but just annoying.

Some forum advice does exist on the above so worth viewing- the task isn’t that difficult and quite straight forward. Remove the plastic sill capping together with the “A” post kick panel outer & inner covers-inner is held in place with butyl / Dum Dum mastic.

Remove the trim from under the steering column and the clip (top right) holding the wiring loom up.
You should now have access to the inner hinge bolts- Size is a real pain! Normal M.M or Imperial do not fit- at that point I nearly gave up! However a socket holding a larger size hex bar marked H12 CR-V is a perfect fit after the bar is removed--- size?

The top three bolts can be reached ok but the removal of the vent/heater pipe makes for better access. Bottom three is easier. With the aid of a hydraulic jack (padded) lift the door up to the point required- fully in this case and just enough to stop the rubbing etc. You can do this whilst the door is partly open so that you can squeeze back in to tighten the bolts etc.

Remove jack to trial the door fit – whilst you are inside the “A” post structure treat all parts with your favourite wax treatment. Replace all trim watching for any small clips holding the kick panel-treat all the panel edges prior to closing up the flexible section and pushing home.

The striker plate wasn’t adjusted here as the door closes far better now.
Only minor paint has been disturbed around the hinges so these small areas have been touched in with an artist brush and when dry follow through with some wax treatment:
Hope it helps
Bob.

[liamcafs]

Good info, I have this exact same issue

[Angie]

My LH side hinge needs to be renewed, presumably that requires removal of the fuse box, is that a difficult task? The only references I've seen have referred to the RH, and what a relatively straightforward job it is.

[Bugjam1999]

^i don’t think you’ll need to move the fuse box, but even if you do it’s just secured with two screws- remove those and you can move it out of the way if required.

I replaced that hinge on a previous car and although I can’t remember if I moved the fuse box or not, I know I didn’t have to remove it from the car.

Cheers

[morwenna240]

That's odd, bolt size. I've done this on at least three cars, of diff years, all bolts 12mm.

[Angie]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

^i don’t think you’ll need to move the fuse box, but even if you do it’s just secured with two screws- remove those and you can move it out of the way if required.

I replaced that hinge on a previous car and although I can’t remember if I moved the fuse box or not, I know I didn’t have to remove it from the car.

Cheers

Thank you, I might even try to do it myself in that case!

[Bob Meadows]

Just had a quick look at the area on my car:~

I wouldn't have thought that changing the hinge would give too many problems- the inner card will have to be removed or turned back but you would do that anyway for adjusting etc.
Obvious thing is to isolate the battery- note the wire connections to each fuse (photo or diagram from manual) just in case some are loose otherwise quite straight forward.
Bob.