Any Advice, Part 2!

[Stephen Edwin]

.

I think Bob that your tensioner had, perhaps, had time to become in a rut, set in its ways?




.

[Bob Meadows]

Bit like me!
When I do the next belt change I can make sure that the tensioner is free to move by giving it a light coating of copper grease on the back of the plate & spigot:~ the car is at low mileage 84'000 and little since the last belt change but will do it next year together with a couple of other jobs.

I don't think the tensioner being reluctant to move was anything other than friction but glad that the cover had been partly removed to make sure.
Regards Bob.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Bit like me!
When I do the next belt change I can make sure that the tensioner is free to move by giving it a light coating of copper grease on the back of the plate & spigot:~ the car is at low mileage 84'000 and little since the last belt change but will do it next year together with a couple of other jobs.

I don't think the tensioner being reluctant to move was anything other than friction but glad that the cover had been partly removed to make sure.
Regards Bob.

... I'll try to remember that for 2025 Bob (as long as the dementia hasn't got me by then!).

[Chris152]

Originally Posted by Othen

How are you and your son getting on with that 240 Chris?

Alan

Well, apologies All! I've become hung up on the power steering pump issue and seem unable to get beyond it, and just happened to take a look on here thinking nothing would have happened to the thread and, lo and behold, several new pages of posts we'd missed!

Try as we might, we can't get the new pulley off the new pump to fit the old one instead, and have now completely mangled the new pulley so fitting a smaller belt's no longer possible. I took it to a local garage who couldn't remove it using a gear puller, and we tried again using a heat gun to heat the pulley while pulling. No joy - the only thing that might make a difference now is a dedicated pulley puller but I can't find one I know has the right size thread (this sort of thing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEERING-AL...4611978&sr=8-6 ).

Sooo - is it time look to buy a used unit? If so, is it a good idea to place a wanted ad here, or does anyone sell refurbished ones?
Alternatively, can anyone look at this and tell me if it's what we need? Ie, without any pulley swaps?! https://classic-volvo.com/power-stee...1991-b230.html (Ours is a 1990 240 2.3) I wrote to the seller in Holland but no reply.

Anyway, enough of power steering pumps. We just realised (seeing ice on the car this morning) we need to do the antifreeze, my guess is it's been some time and we don't want to take any risks - I once had a midget engine freeze and was really lucky the little expansion covers/ things blew out and saved the day. Is this the type we need? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-SLA5L...omotive&sr=1-6

Many thanks for any thoughts,

C

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Anyway, enough of power steering pumps. We just realised (seeing ice on the car this morning) we need to do the antifreeze, my guess is it's been some time and we don't want to take any risks - I once had a midget engine freeze and was really lucky the little expansion covers/ things blew out and saved the day. Is this the type we need? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-SLA5L...omotive&sr=1-6

Many thanks for any thoughts,

C

No! Not OAT coolant Chris! Not even, in fact especially not in an emergency!

You need ethylene glycol antifreeze, Volvo do their own which i'm informed is fairly cheap.

Somewhere in Alans RB thread i've detailed the process of back-flushing and then adding concnetrated ethylene glycol antifreeze and topping up with water, running it up, topping up etc. I've never had a problem in 30+ years of using this method and as long as you use the concentrated (NOT the ready to use watery stuff) you shouldn't either!

I'll try and find the part of the thread but it's quite long now, i know you've read it so maybe you can remember - think it was about the time he did the head gasket.

[Chris152]

Thanks L-S! I read the description in the ad which says 'Ethylene glycol based concentrate' but the actual label on the product says OAT. Hm.
It looks like we're heading back into a spell of warmer weather so no rush, but we need to get this sorted - I'll see if I can find the Volvo product.

And I'll search Alan's thread for ''back-flushing", see if that turns up trumps on the anti-freeze - I don't fancy breaking the drain plug if that's a possibility!

Cheers, C

ps this the passage I'm looking for?
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...sh#post2604834

[Laird Scooby]

Here's one suitable antifreeze Chris :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Antifreez...L/370214204905

Whether you'd get it cheaper on S&As site or not is another matter, i seem to recall their P&P on their site tends to be £OUCH so any apparent saving would soon disappear.

Also this one :

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/tripl...5ltr-523770471

Their current promo code is "WEEKEND37", how much discount that will give is unknonwn though. Often on things like antifreeze, the discount is minimal or non-existent but worth a try.

[Chris152]

Thanks Dave, that's great.

I kept hunting and found your full set of instructions, earlier in Alan's thread than I linked to above:

"I've typed this out many times but can't recall a recent thread where i've done it so i'll just do a list of instructions.

Before you start, douse the Jubilee clips involved and the 'stat housing nuts/bolts with releasing/penetrating oil. Let soak for a few days and repeat. Leave a few days more and give a final dousing.
Set the heater controls to "HOT"

Remove the bottom hose from the rad to drain the old coolant - catch it in something for safe disposal.

Refit the bottom hose and refill with plain water. Add a heavy-duty cooling system flush such as Comma X-Stream Flush or similar.

Take it for a drive. Instructions on the flush usually say "Run the engine for 15-20 minutes, drain and reverse flush" Drive about that amount of time out and then return.

Let the engine cool. Remove the 'stat housing and the thermostat. If memory serves correctly, the 'stat on the B21 has the seal around the actual 'stat, basically a grooved "O" ring. Clean the areas in the housing and on the head where the seal sits.
Refit the housing (no 'stat).

Remove the top hose from the rad. Insert your garden hose into the top hose and turn the hose on. Water should start flowing from the rad stub - go and have a coffee!

Come back after your coffee (remember it was clean water in there so not a problem about drains etc) and check to make sure the water is running clear. Move the hose into the expansion tank (can't remember if yours has one but if it does, do this step) and observe the water coming out of the top hose stub. Once clear, turn the hose off and remove the bottom hose from the rad to allow the majority of the clean water to drain. Refit the bottom hose.

Take the new 'stat and smear some silicone grease into the groove of the new seal, fit the seal around the 'stat so the 'stat sits in the internal groove. Smear the outside of the seal with silicone grease too. Remove the 'stat housing and fit the new 'stat, jiggle valve (if fitted) uppermost. Refit the housing and tighten the fasteners.

With the cooling system now intact (but empty) add about 4.5L of concentrated Etheylene Glycol antifreeze to the system.

I can't remember the total capacity, i think it's 9.6L on yours so you'll need 4.8L antifreeze if so, check the capacity and work out 50% of the total and put that amount of EG conc antifreeze in.

Top up with water to the "MAX" level. Refit the cap and take it for a drive, return home, park preferably facing slightly uphill and leave to cool, overnight if possible.
Check the level the next morning and top up with water if necessary. Remember you've already added enough antifreeze, any shortfall in content needs water only."

Hope you don't mind me copying and pasting to here!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Thanks Dave, that's great.

I kept hunting and found your full set of instructions, earlier in Alan's thread than I linked to above:

"I've typed this out many times but can't recall a recent thread where i've done it so i'll just do a list of instructions.

Before you start, douse the Jubilee clips involved and the 'stat housing nuts/bolts with releasing/penetrating oil. Let soak for a few days and repeat. Leave a few days more and give a final dousing.
Set the heater controls to "HOT"

Remove the bottom hose from the rad to drain the old coolant - catch it in something for safe disposal.

Refit the bottom hose and refill with plain water. Add a heavy-duty cooling system flush such as Comma X-Stream Flush or similar.

Take it for a drive. Instructions on the flush usually say "Run the engine for 15-20 minutes, drain and reverse flush" Drive about that amount of time out and then return.

Let the engine cool. Remove the 'stat housing and the thermostat. If memory serves correctly, the 'stat on the B21 has the seal around the actual 'stat, basically a grooved "O" ring. Clean the areas in the housing and on the head where the seal sits.
Refit the housing (no 'stat).

Remove the top hose from the rad. Insert your garden hose into the top hose and turn the hose on. Water should start flowing from the rad stub - go and have a coffee!

Come back after your coffee (remember it was clean water in there so not a problem about drains etc) and check to make sure the water is running clear. Move the hose into the expansion tank (can't remember if yours has one but if it does, do this step) and observe the water coming out of the top hose stub. Once clear, turn the hose off and remove the bottom hose from the rad to allow the majority of the clean water to drain. Refit the bottom hose.

Take the new 'stat and smear some silicone grease into the groove of the new seal, fit the seal around the 'stat so the 'stat sits in the internal groove. Smear the outside of the seal with silicone grease too. Remove the 'stat housing and fit the new 'stat, jiggle valve (if fitted) uppermost. Refit the housing and tighten the fasteners.

With the cooling system now intact (but empty) add about 4.5L of concentrated Etheylene Glycol antifreeze to the system.

I can't remember the total capacity, i think it's 9.6L on yours so you'll need 4.8L antifreeze if so, check the capacity and work out 50% of the total and put that amount of EG conc antifreeze in.

Top up with water to the "MAX" level. Refit the cap and take it for a drive, return home, park preferably facing slightly uphill and leave to cool, overnight if possible.
Check the level the next morning and top up with water if necessary. Remember you've already added enough antifreeze, any shortfall in content needs water only."

Hope you don't mind me copying and pasting to here!

No problem at all Chris, that's the one!

Been hunting on fleabay for some better value on antifreeze and found this :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autochem-...L/233248191996

If you have more than one car that needs it, that could make a big difference to the budget! Also noticed there are some antifreezes cheaper but are allegedly ready to use and protect to -23C but as soon as you dilute it, the protection point is raised considerably. That suggests it is already diluted (although listed as concentrated) so wouldn't be recommended, however the on above appears to protect down to -18C @50/50 concentration so is more than adequate for what we need here.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Well, apologies All! I've become hung up on the power steering pump issue and seem unable to get beyond it, and just happened to take a look on here thinking nothing would have happened to the thread and, lo and behold, several new pages of posts we'd missed!

Try as we might, we can't get the new pulley off the new pump to fit the old one instead, and have now completely mangled the new pulley so fitting a smaller belt's no longer possible. I took it to a local garage who couldn't remove it using a gear puller, and we tried again using a heat gun to heat the pulley while pulling. No joy - the only thing that might make a difference now is a dedicated pulley puller but I can't find one I know has the right size thread (this sort of thing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEERING-AL...4611978&sr=8-6 ).

Sooo - is it time look to buy a used unit? If so, is it a good idea to place a wanted ad here, or does anyone sell refurbished ones?
Alternatively, can anyone look at this and tell me if it's what we need? Ie, without any pulley swaps?! https://classic-volvo.com/power-stee...1991-b230.html (Ours is a 1990 240 2.3) I wrote to the seller in Holland but no reply.

Anyway, enough of power steering pumps. We just realised (seeing ice on the car this morning) we need to do the antifreeze, my guess is it's been some time and we don't want to take any risks - I once had a midget engine freeze and was really lucky the little expansion covers/ things blew out and saved the day. Is this the type we need? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-SLA5L...omotive&sr=1-6

Many thanks for any thoughts,

C

Welcome back Chris,
I'm sorry to hear about the PAS pump, I've never come across a situation like that.

How about re-building your old pump (the parts inside the new one might even fit)? It looks like a pretty simple unit from the drawings in the BofH, just held together with some circlips on a shaft. The bearings will be standard ones one may purchase from any machine factor, you might need a few grommets and seals as well (or look inside the new one you have, the chances are they will fit).

At this stage that is what I would do.

Alan