Timing belt and front seals

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Othen

The above are right:

Thank you for that useful post. It may well help 2011dandd

Originally Posted by Othen

The above are right:

The water pump is easily accessible (unlike most) and so pretty simple to change.

Experience reported in the forum shows that accessibility is not the issue. There are posts in the forum explaining difficulties experienced changing the water pump.

I hope that helps.

Comrade Stephen Edwin




.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Othen

G

I agree with Clifford that it is a good idea to wind everything over by hand a few times with the cam cover off to check for gross errors.

I meant the belt cover actually, so that you can watch the belt as it runs over the pulleys.
I don't normally touch the cam cover.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Experience reported in the forum shows that accessibility is not the issue. There are posts in the forum explaining difficulties experienced changing the water pump.


.

I'd leave well alone there, assuming it isn't leaking and the bearings feel all right.
But it is I think worth looking carefully around the area where the top outlet presses against the cylinder head just to be reassured that the rubber seal isn't showing any signs of deteriorating. I did once have one blast out unexpectedly, exploding all the coolant in seconds.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I meant the belt cover actually, so that you can watch the belt as it runs over the pulleys.
I don't normally touch the cam cover.

Yes. Thank you Clifford. Turning over by hand is as you would explain to me, standard procedure.


.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I'd leave well alone there, assuming it isn't leaking and the bearings feel all right.
But it is I think worth looking carefully around the area where the top outlet presses against the cylinder head just to be reassured that the rubber seal isn't showing any signs of deteriorating. I did once have one blast out unexpectedly, exploding all the coolant in seconds.

Yes thank you Clifford.

I have noticed in my few years membership that, experience known in the forum re the water pump is leave well alone, unless necessary. And then search the forum for advice based on experience.







As for unexpected exploding all the coolant.

A Morris Minor 948cc A series did that to me one Maunday Thursday evening about 1973. On the London elevated section of the M4. Deep joy ....



.

[2011dandd]

Originally Posted by Othen

Good points by Clifford,

You may add the sump gasket and the fuel pump drive gasket to the list, both much less likely than the cam cover gasket but worth checking. I find the best way to locate leaks without taking everything apart is to clean everything up (Screwfix de-greaser in hot water is cheapest and the best I've found) then give everything a liberal coat of talcum powder (the sort for baby's bums - it is very fine), start the motor and trace where it is coming from.

Clifford is right, the chances are it is coming from somewhere high up on the engine, and most likely the cam cover (which is tricky to seal where the gasket makes those 2 unnecessary right-angle bends). You don't strictly need to remove the cam cover to change the belt, but you might as well because it makes it easier to see what is going on. Have a gasket ready (a whole upper gasket set can be had for £20 or there about, worth getting as you might need others).

Whilst you have the cam cover off there is an opportunity to check the valve clearances - it only takes about 15 minutes so I'd say it is worth doing on a new (to you) motor. Make notes of the clearances so you can decide whether or not to do anything about them if they are out of tolerance later on (checking is easy, adjusting is a bit more involved).

I agree with Clifford that it is a good idea to wind everything over by hand a few times with the cam cover off to check for gross errors.

Good fortune,

Alan

Thanks for all the advice
You mentioned getting a top gasket set, is there a particular company I should be using for quality 240 parts?

Thanks

Dan

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 2011dandd

Thanks for all the advice
You mentioned getting a top gasket set, is there a particular company I should be using for quality 240 parts?

Thanks

Dan

I got a cheap set from eBay - it seems to be perfectly good quality. I've used the head gasket, cam cover and manifold gaskets out of it - and perhaps a few of the smaller bits and pieces. It is handy to have spares to dip into, so I've bought another £20 set just in case.

Someone will probably disagree and insist that only genuine Volvo gaskets will do. Ho hum :-)

Good fortune,

Alan

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Othen

Someone will probably disagree and insist that only genuine Volvo gaskets will do. Ho hum :-)

I'd probably agree about the advisability of using only genuine Volvo parts if I were less cynical about what that actually means nowadays.
If Volvo parts are actually made in the Volvo factory in Sweden, crafted by experienced operatives with years of experience, critically inspected and spot-tested, all work signed for by the individuals, before being packed in tamper-proof packages that are sealed, then yes, I'd wholeheartedly go along with paying twice the price.

But I suspect that all parts now are made by dozens of competing companies around the world, allegedly to Volvo-imposed standards, of various qualities, but are then put in "genuine" Volvo cartons and passed off as genuine Volvo items.
It would be a lovely world if Volvo items were still crafted in the old ways, but I suspect those days have gone.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I'd probably agree about the advisability of using only genuine Volvo parts if I were less cynical about what that actually means nowadays.
If Volvo parts are actually made in the Volvo factory in Sweden, crafted by experienced operatives with years of experience, critically inspected and spot-tested, all work signed for by the individuals, before being packed in tamper-proof packages that are sealed, then yes, I'd wholeheartedly go along with paying twice the price.

But I suspect that all parts now are made by dozens of competing companies around the world, allegedly to Volvo-imposed standards, of various qualities, but are then put in "genuine" Volvo cartons and passed off as genuine Volvo items.
It would be a lovely world if Volvo items were still crafted in the old ways, but I suspect those days have gone.

I think you are right Clifford - I have not noticed any difference in the quality of 'genuine Volvo' and pattern parts.

Alan

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by 2011dandd

Thanks for all the advice
You mentioned getting a top gasket set, is there a particular company I should be using for quality 240 parts?

Thanks

Dan

I bought from the engineering company who gave T.L.C. to the head.

It seems to me that for such a fundamental component it is a good idea to buy from a seller in whom one has reason to have confidence.

You might perhaps want to try a firm specialising in Volvo parts. For example Parts For Volvo Online.

It's always worth asking a helpful Volvo dealer. Some give a very good fig. If they have the right item at a reasonable price then, use them or lose them. We'll miss them when they are gone.


.