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Old Oct 28th, 2020, 21:47   #11
Cleverkiwi
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Originally Posted by Georgeandkira View Post
+1 on ensuring the correct fluid was used.
It's impossible to guess the course of events which preceded the sale. How many shortcuts were taken?, etc.

Give the engine's mounts a look too. I had a clunk into reverse once and the lower engine/transmission to frame mount was shot.

Also, do you put it into R and slam your foot down on the gas (so to speak)? Give the unit the full second to get into gear.

I recommend a "snake oil" to everyone and it's LubeGard in the red bottle. The stuff improved my shifting markedly. I've no connection with the company.
hi,yeah i know what you mean buy been to eager on the gas pedal,only very gentle coxing will avoid a clunk, im having my mechanic check engine gearbox mount driveshafts etc tomorrow.thanks very much for your help
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Old Oct 28th, 2020, 21:57   #12
Cleverkiwi
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Do you mean it clunks when you put the gear selector into R or that it clunks as you begin to move off?
hi sorry i didn;t respond sooner to be honest i'm totally new to using computers forums etc,i find it difficult just navigating my way around this site.i managed to post what they call a thread,but then it's taken a couple off day's to find the replies,there's must be a quicker way than searching through numerous pages.i got my car booked in with my local mechanic to check engine gearbox mounts driveshafts etc.it clunks just when moving off in reverse with not much provocation . thanks very much for your help.
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Old Oct 28th, 2020, 22:19   #13
Cleverkiwi
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dont tow on a quarter of a million mile auto ffs
yes i get what you're saying,i'm not a caravaner,i manovure a small catering trailer out a compound,then back in at the end of the day approx 20yards.thanks for your input anyway
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Old Oct 28th, 2020, 22:47   #14
Dippydog
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No need at all to apologize to me,especially as you did reply to the question on the 26th.Be interesting to hear what the mechanic makes of it.
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Old Oct 29th, 2020, 14:13   #15
Georgeandkira
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I suppose it's foolish to jump the gun (the mechanic's diagnosis) but the "clunks...with not much provocation" makes me wonder if it's a suspension element. A worn bushing changing direction might be clunking.

Holding breath for answer.....
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Old Oct 29th, 2020, 15:56   #16
VOLVOBOY
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Hi.
"he assures me he flushed it filled up ran it for a week then changed again"
If he flushed it then there was no need to change it again a week later , so that`s bull. A flush through is until it`s clean so wouldn`t need changing.
All he`s done is a sump dump or two, possibly.
All you can do now is to check the level when everything`s nice and hot / engine running. The oil will be still be pretty clean if it was flushed but you can`t tell by looking at what`s on the dipstick - you`d have to drain it.
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Old Oct 29th, 2020, 20:25   #17
Cleverkiwi
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Originally Posted by Georgeandkira View Post
I suppose it's foolish to jump the gun (the mechanic's diagnosis) but the "clunks...with not much provocation" makes me wonder if it's a suspension element. A worn bushing changing direction might be clunking.

Holding breath for answer.....
yes ,he didn't get around to it today, promised tomorrow,all will be revieled forthwith.
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Old Nov 4th, 2020, 21:09   #18
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apparently driveshafts cv all good,sounds like valve block or reverse band,not good won;t be coming out soon
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Old Nov 6th, 2020, 14:00   #19
Georgeandkira
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Let me throw this at you plainly as i'm surely no trannie expert.

To VOLVOBOY: People misuse the term "flush". A drain & fill is called a flush by many. If the mechanic performed a "flush" that doesn't mean he unhooked a cooling line and pumped out old whilst pouring in new as you or I might do.

Even if he performed a pump-out there's no mentioning of how many litres of fluid were used. So, either way, drain & fill or a measly "6-8l pump-out" there could EASILY be dirt left behind which, in a weeks time, could show up.

Whether the fellow used the correct fluid or not is the bigger question.

To Cleverkiwi: The bores of the valve body are made of aluminum and scratch. They can catch dirt and hang up their piston elements, I'm told.

If you can assure yourself the fluid is correct and fairly clean, I'd urge you to try the LubeGard (red) I mentioned above. It ain't snake oil. It's a lube which worked for me and does so for many on the oil board.

If you're at the point of R&Ring your valve body then you have nothing to lose by trying the stuff beyond its purchase price.
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