amazon as every day drive

[hazaa]

Hi guys,
Greeting from Latvia i new to this volvo forum so wanted to start some talk with you regarding amazon as every day car. i have read a lot and many say that is very nice car to use in every day.
after some looking i have found 1968 amazon VIN is 131941P305935, in car is B18 engine, car has lot of rust and has sun roof...

i have restored few cars in my life, so not to scared from rust. but wanted to ask you for some advises, how to make it better as a every day car. Because i will put on all new suspension, brakes, engine rebuild, repaint it.
SO my question is:

1) if these volvo engines are good? because in all places where i read they say they bullet prof or it is better to put in some newer engine from some 80 or 90 volvo? iam little scared from carburetor, because i know its some times tricky to adjust it and need to tune it time to time, maybe better to try to put injection system or just drive with rebuild original?

2) if there would be very big difference in power and fuel economy between b18 (75hp) and b20 (82hp) engine? or the difference is so small that there is no point to look for b20 engine and leave what i have in car?

3) if the mechanical fuel pump is reliable, or better to put electronic?

3) what need to be done to chassis or body strengtheners, because i have seen pictures some people are welding some places to get it stronger.

4) for the handling how i understood sway burst must be in front and rear.

5) if there is some special weak places where need to look and to do so the car is better for every day use.

thank you a lot, for your help guys..

[Army]

Originally Posted by hazaa

Hi guys,
Greeting from Latvia i new to this volvo forum so wanted to start some talk with you regarding amazon as every day car. i have read a lot and many say that is very nice car to use in every day.
after some looking i have found 1968 amazon VIN is 131941P305935, in car is B18 engine, car has lot of rust and has sun roof...
...

Rust!

Yuk!

Originally Posted by hazaa

...
i have restored few cars in my life, so not to scared from rust. but wanted to ask you for some advises, how to make it better as a every day car. Because i will put on all new suspension, brakes, engine rebuild, repaint it...

You're gonna be busy then

Originally Posted by hazaa

...

1) if these volvo engines are good? because in all places where i read they say they bullet prof or it is better to put in some newer engine from some 80 or 90 volvo? iam little scared from carburetor, because i know its some times tricky to adjust it and need to tune it time to time, maybe better to try to put injection system or just drive with rebuild original?
...

If the engine is in good condition then I'd stick with what you've already got.

I wouldn't be worried about trying to go down the Megasquirt route just yet - get the rust fixed first. If you've done rust remedy work before you must know it is a best to concentrate on that first before spending the budget on other stuff.

These B18/20 engines seem to be pretty reliable so long as they have been looked after

Originally Posted by hazaa

...

2) if there would be very big difference in power and fuel economy between b18 (75hp) and b20 (82hp) engine? or the difference is so small that there is no point to look for b20 engine and leave what i have in car?

...

Again if you've got something that is known to be good stick with that. Fuel economy isn't ever going to be anywhere near modern super mini standards. If that is a problem buy a different car - fuel economy in modern terms isn't going to be achievable.

Originally Posted by hazaa

...

3) if the mechanical fuel pump is reliable, or better to put electronic?

...

Yep mechanical pump - simple easy to fix

Also if you're looking at the more common fuel injection electric pumps you'd need a return fuel line that is unlikely to be fitted to your car => more work / worry

Stick with what you have!

Originally Posted by hazaa

...

3) what need to be done to chassis or body strengtheners, because i have seen pictures some people are welding some places to get it stronger.

...

This is the 2nd number 3!

People probably weld in strengthening parts to either cover up rusty bits they don't want to repair properly or for turning their cars in rally vehicles

Originally Posted by hazaa

...

4) for the handling how i understood sway burst must be in front and rear.
...

I guess you mean sway bar.

There is a sway bar fitted on front and back. People do upgrade to thicker sizes and stick on poly bushes (some say the poly bushes mean the suspension needs to be checked for stress cracks when using those things)

Originally Posted by hazaa

...

5) if there is some special weak places where need to look and to do so the car is better for every day use.

thank you a lot, for your help guys..

I'd consider a disc brake upgrade if there are still drums on the font.

[hazaa]

Hi Army,
thx for info. how i sad iam not to scared from rust, just buy new panels and put them in place, so thats not a problem. its bigger problem to finish all job and than find out that other engine inside would be much better or to make chassis better had to be done before. thats why asked all this questions.

Regarding fuel, how much standard amazon eats fuel in city?

Regarding engine, thats why i asked so i dont finish car and in the end find out that b20 engine would be much better so i need to rebuild new engine again.
i like to make plan before i start to do the work, because i need to order all parts so that takes time when they arrive...

regarding if the injector would be better than to put back return fuel line would be the smallest problem in this project

i have disck brakes in front, thats why also asked about them, because other option is to put willwood or brembo with custom brackets and job done, but if that is needed thats other questions. i restoring now pontiac GTA and it has good brakes so no need of that but for VW t2 i put on new brembos because thats car original brakes are very very bad.

[Derek UK]

Volvo never fitted a sway bar on the rear not even for their rally cars. They did beef up the front one. For rallying, being able to have some oversteer and get the back out under good control is a good thing.
IPD do a rear bar but most people prefer the car without it unless you have it lowered and stiffly sprung for track use.

[Army]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Volvo never fitted a sway bar on the rear not even for their rally cars. They did beef up the front one. For rallying, being able to have some oversteer and get the back out under good control is a good thing.
IPD do a rear bar but most people prefer the car without it unless you have it lowered and stiffly sprung for track use.

Oh yeah blinking Panhard rod (!)

[old fart]

I'd keep the car pretty standard, maybe a slightly hotter cam, a Weber carb, or twin SUs, sports exhaust and lower the suspension a bit. I get 25 mpg around town and up to 35 mpg on a run, so not bad for an old 'un.

[Army]

Originally Posted by hazaa

Hi Army,
thx for info. how i sad iam not to scared from rust, just buy new panels and put them in place, so thats not a problem. its bigger problem to finish all job and than find out that other engine inside would be much better or to make chassis better had to be done before. thats why asked all this questions.

Regarding fuel, how much standard amazon eats fuel in city?

Regarding engine, thats why i asked so i dont finish car and in the end find out that b20 engine would be much better so i need to rebuild new engine again.
i like to make plan before i start to do the work, because i need to order all parts so that takes time when they arrive...

regarding if the injector would be better than to put back return fuel line would be the smallest problem in this project

i have disck brakes in front, thats why also asked about them, because other option is to put willwood or brembo with custom brackets and job done, but if that is needed thats other questions. i restoring now pontiac GTA and it has good brakes so no need of that but for VW t2 i put on new brembos because thats car original brakes are very very bad.

Most people report fuel consumption between 8 and 12 km per litre. Heavy town traffic could be nearer to the 8 I guess. There's a web site called fuelly that might give more information but don't get confused between the US MPG and UK MPG figures (all gallons are not equal)

If the existing B18 is dead then I guess a B20 might be seen as an upgrade by some. My PV has a B20 - looking at the parts book it looks very similar to the B18

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by hazaa

1) if these volvo engines are good? because in all places where i read they say they bullet prof or it is better to put in some newer engine from some 80 or 90 volvo? iam little scared from carburetor, because i know its some times tricky to adjust it and need to tune it time to time, maybe better to try to put injection system or just drive with rebuild original?
These engines are very good and take well to tuning. They are very well built and bearings are big. The only real weak spot is the timing gear and this can be changed for a steel version so as to last a lifetime. The later 240/740/940 engines are also good but unless you are looking for a LOT of power there no point going to a lot of extra expense and hassle to change teh engine

2) if there would be very big difference in power and fuel economy between b18 (75hp) and b20 (82hp) engine? or the difference is so small that there is no point to look for b20 engine and leave what i have in car?

No difference in consumption between the 2, the 2ltr is likely to use less fuel but it will depend how its driven. Typical consumption is around 30MPG (real gallons not US short measures)

3) if the mechanical fuel pump is reliable, or better to put electronic?

No problems with the mechanical pump but no harm in going electric

3) what need to be done to chassis or body strengtheners, because i have seen pictures some people are welding some places to get it stronger.

Well it depends what you are going to do with the car. I like to brace the front chassis to the bulkhead, crossmeber need seam welding where the bottom wishbone bolts go through and strengthen the top shock mounting point. At the rear the top shock mount can also start to crack so with adding a thicker washer there on a ground up rebuild

4) for the handling how i understood sway burst must be in front and rear.

Ideally you want a thicker anti roll bar at the front than at the rear. Only fitting a very thick front bar and nothing at the rear causes the car to sway and be VERY snappy near the limit. Amazons handle well even with worn out suspension. A car with a oversized front bar and nothing in the rear is scary to drive! Too much rear bar gives less rear grip so getting the balance right is the key.

5) if there is some special weak places where need to look and to do so the car is better for every day use.

Places that want strengthening already mentioned

thank you a lot, for your help guys..

A know a few 240 guys in Riga but no one with a amazon untill now

For daily use there are lots of little things you can do.
Headlight upgrade to halogen lamps
Adapt modern seats to fit
Convert to electric fan and improved radiator
Basic engine mods for a bit more "pep"
Stiffer suspension for improved ride and more stable road holding
Wider tyres for more grip
Heated rear window
Add a high level brake light
Add high reflective material to rear light backing to improve teh brigtness

And many other little things you can do

[hazaa]

hehey thats what iam talking, thanks for all this info. I appreciate a lot.

8-12l on 100km ( europe style ) thats very nice my mb sec eats much more not talking about GTA so this sounds like a very nice deal.

understood about sway bar, so leave original or if i put bigger in front than need to put in back also.

steel timing gear was already in my list. ( that i heard that its not the best )

regarding suspension my idea was to lover it 25-30% so it is little lover but still that you can drive normal even in winter.
i dont want to go poly bushes because than the car will be harder, i like that it is soft for every day use..

regarding headlamps plat to put relay system on it, that always helps.
Seats i like original and have with head rest to they stay

radiator was planing to put some aluminium with electric fan so car dosnt overhear

i have rear windows heated, but i still have left form one project Webaco autonomy heating system so maybe will put that better in, so in winter there is warm in mornings.

what you could suggest with shocks witch are litter stiffer but still nice for every day?

also wanted to ask regarding LPG i have now on the car system and still thinking to put new one or just to take it of... because there are engines witch goes on LPG no problem, and there are some witch dont like it to much. but that will save some $$, because we have 1l gas 1,5 eur and gas 0,5eur so...

classicswede if its possible to get some picture of places witch should i weld in front and back of the car, so can plan that also..

[classicswede]

For a daily driver upto 40mm lowering is good.

Poly bushes don'd make the suspension stiffer just better located. The top wishbone bushes are a must in poly but all the other bushes are ok in rubber.


Shocks I sell the GAZ adjustables. They will go from soft to hard but are not cheap. You could look at something like gas pressure Monroe ones or KYB even as a ok budget shock.

LPG as long as it is installed reasonably well and a decent vapouriser it should be good. Fuel consumption should be fairly good with these engines on LPG.

I have some photos of the welding needed but only the lower wishbone mounting point. Next full one I do I will take some photos