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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Dash cluster removal.Views : 2627 Replies : 7Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 25th, 2008, 01:52 | #1 |
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Last Online: Apr 17th, 2024 12:54
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Location: Co. Cork, Ireland.
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Dash cluster removal.
Hi guys. As I am currently replacing my water pump in my Amazon, I felt it would be a good time to replace the non-working temperature gauge with a nice new one from Brookhouse. So, I sat into the car and had one look and I dont see any screws or anything obvious about where to start. It looks like this is one job that possibly has a few knacks involved that would really help. Has anyone got any advice about this? Do I have to remove the whole cluster and if so, whats the best technique? Thanks, Hugh.
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Nov 25th, 2008, 08:02 | #2 |
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Last Online: Jun 28th, 2021 20:58
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Location: Leigh-0n-Sea, Essex
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From memory when I replaced mine about 3 years ago, the speedo cluster is held in by knurled nuts on the back that hold brackets against the dash panel.
You need to lie on your back under the dashboard, and it is a good idea to take a torch with you before you wriggle into place. The temp guage is held by two small brass nuts that you can get to when the cluster is pulled forward.
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Brian M 1970 Volvo Amazon and 1978 Safari 14/2 |
Nov 25th, 2008, 10:57 | #3 |
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Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 11:43
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Location: Wootton, Bedfordshire
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done this a few times, and will need to again as my second hand one from brookhouse lasted one day then died. I don't loosen the speedo cluster at all, just lie with head in footwell and get to the 2 screws holding the temp gauge in place, then undo the sensor in the cylinder head and withdraw from inside, or if its really dead then use wire snips. pretty simple job.
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'68 Ruddspeed tuned 121 |
Nov 25th, 2008, 12:23 | #4 |
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Last Online: Apr 17th, 2024 12:54
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Thanks lads. I had a look behind it and saw the two little screws. Loads of wires in the way of course. I will try and move stuff out of the way and see how it goes. Another question for ye. When screwing the sender unit into the engine block, is it ok to just screw it in or is it necessary to put some sealer on the threads to stop it leaking?
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Nov 25th, 2008, 21:56 | #5 |
Pastry Engineer
Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2024 21:47
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Scappoose Oregon
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As the others have said, you don't have to pull the instr. cluster. The two small screws in the back of the gauge proper have to be backed out. The bulb/nut is best pulled out from the head with a crows foot wrench. When installing the next one, I normally put a bit of pipe dope on the threads. I would think teflon tape would do just as well.
Steve121- If you can't find a good used unit, I have a few around. Thanks Chris |
Nov 25th, 2008, 23:21 | #6 |
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Thats great. Thanks a million Chris The original temp gauge in my car hasnt worked in a number of years I suspect. The previous owner fitted a seperate electric temp gauge in a hole in the dash. I wanted to get an original gauge and replace the electric temp gauge with a nice Smiths oil pressure gauge. I sourced a nice one on Ebay and hope to fit that after the water pump is sorted.
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1970 Volvo Amazon 131 with a B20A and an M40. |
Nov 28th, 2008, 09:57 | #7 |
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Ok, new gauge is fitted and it worked a treat. I might as well describe how it went as it could be helpful for anyone who is considering doing the same. First of all it is damn awkward getting under the dash to work on things, so I made up something to lie on to make it easier. I used a couple of old milk crates and a length of 3/4 plywood and that brought it just up to below sill level. I could then lie on this and it made it a lot easier to lie down and get under. When I looked up behind the dash all I could see was stuff in the way and a bunch of wires. To remove the temp gauge; the choke cable bracket which is screwed up underneath the dash is in the way. I removed the choke lever and then unscrewed the bracket and pushed it out of the way. I then pulled down the cables a bit to make more space and tied them out of the way with a bit of string to the steering wheel. I could then see the back of the temp gauge. There is two small slot screws holding it in. I removed these and was able to remove the gauge. You will have to twist it a bit sideways for this to work. Sorted! Then put in the new gauge, again slide it in a bit sideways and secure the screws. Be very careful with the tube that goes to the sender unit. I imagine its fairly delicate, dont do any sharp bends. I put back up the wires and the choke bracket and lever and that was that. Oh, and I found to get the sender through the hole in the bulkhead, I had to remove the choke cable from the carb and feed it back into the cabin as it wont fit past the cable when its in the hole. Then I fed the sender and tube into the engine bay followed by the choke cable. Put back on the rubber gromit and connect the choke cable and sender unit. Job done! Hope this helps someone who is thinking of the same thing. Thanks again lads for the advice. Hugh.
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1970 Volvo Amazon 131 with a B20A and an M40. |
Aug 21st, 2019, 19:16 | #8 |
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Last Online: Aug 26th, 2019 18:40
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Location: Bath
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Preparing to remove/replace water temperature gauge
I suggest this. Remove *both* front seats (the passenger footwell will provide a good large clear space for tools, torches, screws etc and is easier to reach than the passenger seat.) Put a pillow over the driver's seat support frame (the frame is hard to lie on). Then stuff the driver's floor space with duvets, blankets and the like. Crawl in and lie on your back looking up into the underside of the dash, with your feet on the back seat. It's easy to see the water temperature gauge and its two retaining screws. Start undoing the screws with a watchmaker's screwdriver. Then, when the screws are half out and easy to turn, use your fingers to remove them completely. That means you have a firm hold of the screws when they come out and they won't fall into the depths of the dashboard.
Last edited by la jetee; Aug 21st, 2019 at 19:19. Reason: Typos |
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