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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Idling / Starting advice for a 1990 240 GL EstateViews : 2970 Replies : 31Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 6th, 2006, 15:19 | #11 |
Peter D
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2015 21:03
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Livingston
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It would be wise to check the Temperature sensor. It has two resistors who's value drop with temperature. You will need a meter and measure each of the two contacts to ground. They chould be the same value as each other and if hot will be aroud 250 ohms and 2500 ohms cold. One feeds the temp gauge the other is used to control the cold start choke. Regards Peter
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Feb 7th, 2006, 08:26 | #12 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 12:45
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
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Are you sure about that Peter? Mine has two separate sensors. The one under the intake for cylinders 1/2 is for the temp gauge, the other under cylinder 3 is for the management system. The are completely separate, and I thought the resistance to measure was simply that across the two terminals (small rectangular plug/socket). But may be there are other configurations?
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Feb 7th, 2006, 14:48 | #13 |
Peter D
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2015 21:03
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Livingston
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I thought you had a B200F with Jetronic 2.4 Cliff. If that is the case then the temp sensor by number 3 is a dual temp sensor and the other you refer too slightly loer down and under numer 2/3 is the knock sensor with an angled connector on it. Regards Peter
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Feb 7th, 2006, 19:33 | #14 |
Peter D
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2015 21:03
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Livingston
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Ok if this engine is a 230 Kjet it still has an ECU but no diagnostic connector and as you stated Cliff a single contact temp sensor and a Thermal switch for the cold start which may be the problem. This sensor stays closde until about 35 degrees then it goes open cct. To test this you will need the engine cold and a meter ot bulb. If you remove the connector and probe it with the two wires of the bulb or a meter and get someone to crank the engine over the bulb should light or the meter read 10 to 12 volts DC. If this is OK then turn off the ignition and measure the resistance across the two pins of the cold start injector and come back to the forum with results. if it measures 10 to 20 ohms then that is not the problem and put it all back together and come back here. There is no idle control valve on the CIS but an Aux Air valve which if thermally controlled and can be tested in situ initially my removing the connector and measuring the resistance of internal heeating element at about 30 ohms. if it is high resistance then this is the problem. Come back to the forum. Regards Peter
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Feb 15th, 2006, 11:33 | #15 |
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Well I managed to get my head under the bonnet this morning.
Both the aux air valve and the cold start injector seems to be working fine. Peter, my engine is a B200E with k jet system, so I am not sure where the Temperature Sensor would be? I have read that another thing that could help is to clean the throttle body. Although I have seen diagrams of this on other engines I have not been able to locate a diagram of one on a B200E engine. Is this attached to the underside of the intake manifold above the bellows? I have also ordered spark plugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor arm, as I am not sure when this were last replaced. Debbie |
Feb 15th, 2006, 16:31 | #16 |
Peter D
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2015 21:03
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Livingston
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Cleaning the throttle boby is not at all easy on this model and I don't think it is your problem anyway. The temp sensor is loacated under the inlet manifold of No 3/4 cylinder. I have been looking up you year and engine code and have to question what injection system you have. Can you send me a digital photogrargh of you engine to Tech@volvo240.co.uk so I can see what you have incase I mis-lead you. Regards Peter
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Feb 15th, 2006, 17:11 | #17 |
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Thanks Peter, I have emailed some photos for you.
Debbie |
Feb 15th, 2006, 17:31 | #18 |
Peter D
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2015 21:03
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Livingston
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Ok I have your photos and immediately question the K&N air Filter. I looked back and this car is clearly new to you and I suspect you have always had this problem. If yes then you park the car next overvight wrap cling film around the the bottom 3/4 of the air filter i.e. from the smaller end. In the morning start her, otr in your case Him up and try reving the engine. If Ok then the so called permanace air filter is the problem. The K jectronic is very critical on air flow and vacuum particularly when cold and the air control valve and the air and control valve will not like that air filter. TRy it and come back with the results. I also do not like the 114 114 written on the cam belt cover I think that might be a scrapyard replacement engine but hey that another matter. Regards Peter
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Feb 15th, 2006, 17:45 | #19 |
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Okies thanks Peter. The cling film is on and will report back tommorrow.
I must admit we did question the air filter and we were told it shouldn't make that much difference .. we shall see tommorrow Re the 119119, I was led to beleive that was when the belt was last changed as the mileage is just over 120600. How could I tell if it *has* had an engine replacement? Debbie |
Feb 15th, 2006, 18:18 | #20 |
Peter D
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2015 21:03
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Livingston
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Could be, although I think it's 114 114. Look at the cam belt cover retaining bolt to the right of the cover. Is it all rusty aor does it look as though it has been removed recently, and check the other bolts. Cam belts on these are 70/80K on these. Peter
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