Cam belt timing marks

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by zchael6

Thanks for the reply. I can only get the v of the cam to point to the side, towards me, rather than up when the dot is aligned to the back plastic.

If you're doing it from the drivers side then bearing in mind the engine is canted over by 20 degrees towards the drivers side, that would probably be about right. Also the two cam lobes forming a V pointing up is only an approximation to confirm neither valve is open, the timing mark is the important bit.





Basic timing diagram ^^^^^ and an early crank pulley showing timing marks. Later models had the timing marks on the plastic timing cover and the TDC mark is barely visible, many people have accidentally timed it on the 10 BTDC mark believing the "0" of the 10 to the right of the mark is 0 degrees but have in fact misread the marks.

[zchael6]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

Some did learn it the hard way:

B200F seems to be interference engines

B2x4 are for 100% interference

B2xyK and B2xyH are interference too

Good luck,Kay

Mines a 1998 2.3lpt celebration with a b230fk I think

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bob12

That's the first time I have ever seen that the B200F is an interference engine. Where did you get that info from?

Bob

A few poor unfortunates who've had a B200F bend valves on them!

[zchael6]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If you're doing it from the drivers side then bearing in mind the engine is canted over by 20 degrees towards the drivers side, that would probably be about right. Also the two cam lobes forming a V pointing up is only an approximation to confirm neither valve is open, the timing mark is the important bit.





Basic timing diagram ^^^^^ and an early crank pulley showing timing marks. Later models had the timing marks on the plastic timing cover and the TDC mark is barely visible, many people have accidentally timed it on the 10 BTDC mark believing the "0" of the 10 to the right of the mark is 0 degrees but have in fact misread the marks.

Thanks, I’m convinced the timing marks are all lined up properly. I’ve looked a loads of diagrams online watches videos etc. When I had the belt back on and the marks all aligned, I turned the key and absolutely nothing happened. I guess the battery could be dead? But I replaced that the other day.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by zchael6

Thanks, I’m convinced the timing marks are all lined up properly. I’ve looked a loads of diagrams online watches videos etc. When I had the belt back on and the marks all aligned, I turned the key and absolutely nothing happened. I guess the battery could be dead? But I replaced that the other day.

Did you get the normal warning lights on the dash in position 2 of the key? Also did you have the bonnet open and the underbonnet light on? Doors and/or tailgate open?

[zchael6]

Got the bonnet and boot open, had the front right door open. When I turn the key to II all the dash warning lights have come on. When I turn to III nothing happens but a little tiny pop that sounds like the spark plugs

Haven’t got any of the drive belts on yet

Edit, closed all the doors bonnet and boot and it started up!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by zchael6

Got the bonnet and boot open, had the front right door open. When I turn the key to II all the dash warning lights have come on. When I turn to III nothing happens but a little tiny pop that sounds like the spark plugs

Haven’t got any of the drive belts on yet

Edit, closed all the doors bonnet and boot and it started up!

Have you got a voltmeter/multimeter?

[zchael6]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Have you got a voltmeter/multimeter?

No. After closing everything including the bonnet it started up as normal. Thanks for all the help. Why wouldn’t it start with all that stuff open?

[griston64]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

Do this only at TDC cyl 1

good luck, Kay

What difference would that make ? You are only adjusting the tensioner. The cam cover is also in the way when you do this through the hole where the bung goes

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by griston64

What difference would that make ? You are only adjusting the tensioner. The cam cover is also in the way when you do this through the hole where the bung goes

Minimal rotary tension on the camshaft that could cause it to jump as the tensioner is released Mark. Brown trouser moment when that happens!

Many moons ago while changing the belt on my Rover, one of the valves in the rear bank was open just enough to cause it to shut on spring pressure from the valve springs, turning the cam backwards slightly and causing a trouser-filling metallic clang.

I got the job finished and started it with a little trepidation but i got away without any problems.

The other reason is that if something does go wrong for whatever reason, doing at @ TDC #1, you know where the various engine parts should be so won't have a problem starting from scratch.