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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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C30 1.6d DRIVe 2011 DPF, Turbo, cleaningViews : 1262 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 15th, 2020, 01:59 | #1 |
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C30 1.6d DRIVe 2011 DPF, Turbo, cleaning
I have C30 1.6d DRIVe 2011
I used to have an old racehip connected, but taken it off sometime before all these issues below. For a year now I had problems with limp mode, no power etc, and VIDA was saying ECM-2A30 Particulate trap signal too high, TCV valve, MAf sensor and all this started with DPF issue since passing 120000 Km last summer I had DPF cleaned with some dpf service guys, but after was done I had more problems. new errors in VIDA. I am seriously not sure that they did a good job at all. Cabeling broken, clips not placed back on hoses also recently I discovered that few screws were not put back in thermal shielding around DPF, explained rattling that started aftrerwards. Following that I have taken off and cleaned EGR but with contact spray that time, not really best for it... few days ok then same again... I have bought a new TCV sensor then I was not sure of right hose being attached to right pipe on the Valve one way had nore power but (sometimes tons of black smoke) I changed the hoses and car seemed to run ok for few days then again no power, not going aboive 3000 rpm limp mode Following that I changed fuel filter and air filter and I filled ADM with eloys and tried forced regen again (6 times in a month) , it would run ok for few days and then car goes again into limp mode and and errors return. Now, I had enough and decided to do all cleaning and decarbonising, cleaning, replacing jobs myself currently car is in my garage with front raised on blocks. I have taken DPF off and cleaning it with muriatic acid bath then rinsing with water, then taking it to local car wash and power washing it also: with hot soapy water and cold water rinsing. at home I am using the endoscope and can see that DPF part is cleaned now but the catalyst part, one closer to Turbo is still blocked 20-30% of mesh inside. I will be cleaning it more. I have taken the front bumper down and intercooler is removed, it had lots of oil in it. cleaned it with white spirit and rinsed with water. I have also taken off the turbo and opened hot part with variable geometry, I can see its full of soot and oild and the little fins are blocked so that actuator is not able to open up thus why has no power and goes to limp mode. What I am planing to do is, changing the TCV (recently done) plus all hoses, from tcv to turbo, hoses from dpf sensor to DPF, new dpf sensor, I will again clean the EGR also, by taking the electronic plastic part of and using some cleaning product on metal part, maybe even mr muscle. I will use contact spray to clean MAF sensor that throws the errors still I do have an oil leak somwhere left from the engine, not sure exaclty from where it comes from, but it sprayed on the belt, alternator and hoses around there. I will take sump off and clean the sieve. currently oil messures more then before and more then MAX. I will also change my oil filter and put fresh oil: Castrol MAGNATEC STOP-START 5W-30 A5 Little long winded with hope that some of this may be of use to someone ... what else to do, any suggestions, thoughts, verdicts, help and ideas are welcome big hello to all Volvo C30 owners |
Dec 15th, 2020, 09:14 | #2 |
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Could well be a split intercooler pipe. Common failure on the 1.6D but not sure about the 8v D2. Through a tiny split it sprays oil all over the off-side of the engine bay.
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Present: 2009 Volvo V50 1.6D DRIVe SE Past: 2004 Volvo S40 T5 SE |
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Dec 15th, 2020, 15:56 | #3 | |
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Quote:
btw, this is not D2 8v it is 16v engine. thank you |
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Dec 15th, 2020, 16:01 | #4 |
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What is the upgrade option for that hose bit that goes to intercooler?
Last edited by Borisio; Dec 15th, 2020 at 16:06. |
Dec 16th, 2020, 08:39 | #5 |
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Not sure about upgrade. I just replaced it with the standard Volvo part.
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Dec 17th, 2020, 03:06 | #6 | |
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Little update: I cleaned the variable geometry turbo, was bit chalenging, but its done now. installed new DPF pressure sensor. contemplating puting new silicon pipes for the sensor and TCV. Next is EGR, not sure should I take it all off or just, plastic part I am not too keen on that claw clamp and no screw replacement. |
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Dec 19th, 2020, 07:26 | #7 | |
All the gear - no idea
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Quote:
The EGR is definitely worth taking off and cleaning - we had similar limp mode issues and this was the culprit. Plenty of videos on the web showing /explaining how to do it. My only recommendation is to remove the rubber o ring/gasket before you put carb cleaner near the unit - then put it back after you have finished cleaning and it is dry - i I noticed the carb cleaner had a strange effect on the said o ring. |
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