2006 V70 D5 185 EGR V Clamp removal

[TurboDiesel2006]

Can anybody help please. I have a 2006 MY V70 D5 185 Manual which is showing the dreaded Engine System Service Required fault message and the car is in low power mode when it feels as it the turbocharger is not working. The fault codes are:
ECM-4430 EGR Valve
ECM-6820 Turbo actuator. Signal too low
ECM-4510 EGR cooler bypass valve. Signal too low
ECM-6690 GLow relay control
ECM-6500 Engine Pads
ECM-4450 EGR position sensor. Faulty signal

Also the real time data stream shows the EGR Valve at 100% irrespective of throttle position.

From my previous experience and reading the SkintKnuckles thread my analysis is that the EGR valve is stuck i.e. 4430 is the primary issue and all the other codes except 6690 relate to the this problem.

About 3 years and 25,000 miles ago I removed and cleaned the DPF, cleaned out the EGR valve, valve/manifold pipe, manifold and replaced the throttle body and fitted new injectors. This was all done with the EGR still on the car and since then the car has been great. The card has been laid up for the last 6 months but has been started up and run for 15-20 minutes to get really warm every couple of weeks with no problem messages displayed. Sod's law that the moment I un-sorn the car and tax it the Engine System Service message comes up.

Yesterday I tried to take out the EGR to try and get better access but the V clamp that connects the cooler to the metal flexible pipe completely defeated me. I removed the two bolts, cables and clips at the front of the EGR, I also removed the pipe from the air filer assembly down to the turbo that runs alongside part of the cooler so as to get access to the cooler bracket mounting bolt and V clamp. I removed Cooler mounting bolt and loosened off the V clamp jubilee clip as much as possible. The EGR was then loose at the front but I could not get the V clamp to budge at all.

The EGR had a layer of soot but didn't look clogged up. As my wife needed the car today I cleaned the EGR anyhow and put it all back together but I still have exactly the same problems and error codes.

Questions:
Am I on the right path in thinking I have a stuck EGR valve. I assume that lack of use has caused the soot to solidify more than normal and this has jammed the valve.

Can it I release the EGR valve/piston if I can get it off.

If so how do I get the V clamp to separate and release. It looks like two separate semi-circles with a jubilee clip welded to the top semi-circle. I tried using a flat head screwdriver to pry off the top half but no joy. Access is limited so experience is probably the best tool.

Am I better off trying to release the flexible pipe at the exhaust end and taking out the EGR+cooler+pipe? If so how do I get to it as it looks to be shielded to access from underneath the car?

Is the only solution a new EGR (which I think is £400 - £500 and I would rather not have to spend this) then I still have to get the V clamp off.

Any ideas or experience to share please.

[cheshired5]

You have Vida so the first thing to do is follow the possibilities for each specific fault code as laid out in Vida.
Ref EGR removal and assuming that is definitely required, once again Vida shows you in detail in the Removal and Replacement section.

[TurboDiesel2006]

Thank you CheshireD5, I took these codes from my Carsoft code reader which unfortunately doesn't provide the resolution paths so I'm having to try and work it out from my experience and help from the forum.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006

I took these codes from my Carsoft code reader

I see. Sorry, I assumed you had Vida because you provided Volvo codes.
Is code reading and live data all the icarsoft does?
Can it do activations of components to test their operation?

[TurboDiesel2006]

I have the iCarsoft i906, it can identify the car, read codes, clear them and provides a live data stream. But it only provides a one-line description of the error code, doesn't give you the depth of information you get from Vida and can't do activation of components. It is not limited to reading just the engine and does all of the systems (I think) and it is very easy to use being just one handheld unit that you can quickly plug in.

I did have a Vida system (bought to address the limitations of the iCarsoft reader when I replaced the throttle unit) but it has to run on a Windows 7 operating system with Internet Explorer 9 and, Sod's Law again, that laptop terminally crashed a week before the Volvo's EGR problem reared its' ugly head. Getting a new Win7 laptop and rebuilding it to SP1 whilst keeping IE9 is more money and not the work of moments so I am Vida less with a sick Volvo.

What is really annoying is that I tested the Volvo a week before we decided to un-SORN it (and SORN my wife's car instead) and it was fine, then this problem comes up the first time I start it up with tax and insurance. Naturally my wife is less than impressed with my decision making.

So I am hoping that my analysis is good and I can free up the EGR valve. But to get it off I need to release that V clamp and that is where I got stuck.

If I can't repair it I can try a second hand EGR valve but I can't help thinking that any used unit is likely to be not much better than my 150k mile unit. Whichever way I look at it I think the EGR is going to have to come off which takes me back to the V clamp.

Does anybody know how to test or repair the EGR on the bench? From reading the excellent SkintKnuckles thread on EGR woes I came to the conclusion that the low signal messages and low voltages were all red herrings and the result of the sticking EGR, not the cause. Hence my thinking that if I can fix the stuck valve the other related codes will disappear.

[luggsey]

Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006

I have the iCarsoft i906, it can identify the car, read codes, clear them and provides a live data stream. But it only provides a one-line description of the error code, doesn't give you the depth of information you get from Vida and can't do activation of components. It is not limited to reading just the engine and does all of the systems (I think) and it is very easy to use being just one handheld unit that you can quickly plug in.

I did have a Vida system (bought to address the limitations of the iCarsoft reader when I replaced the throttle unit) but it has to run on a Windows 7 operating system with Internet Explorer 9 and, Sod's Law again, that laptop terminally crashed a week before the Volvo's EGR problem reared its' ugly head. Getting a new Win7 laptop and rebuilding it to SP1 whilst keeping IE9 is more money and not the work of moments so I am Vida less with a sick Volvo.

What is really annoying is that I tested the Volvo a week before we decided to un-SORN it (and SORN my wife's car instead) and it was fine, then this problem comes up the first time I start it up with tax and insurance. Naturally my wife is less than impressed with my decision making.

So I am hoping that my analysis is good and I can free up the EGR valve. But to get it off I need to release that V clamp and that is where I got stuck.

If I can't repair it I can try a second hand EGR valve but I can't help thinking that any used unit is likely to be not much better than my 150k mile unit. Whichever way I look at it I think the EGR is going to have to come off which takes me back to the V clamp.

Does anybody know how to test or repair the EGR on the bench? From reading the excellent SkintKnuckles thread on EGR woes I came to the conclusion that the low signal messages and low voltages were all red herrings and the result of the sticking EGR, not the cause. Hence my thinking that if I can fix the stuck valve the other related codes will disappear.

I took the pipes off either side of the egr and kept squirting brake cleaner in there and caught the crap on the other side with a big rag. Using a old tooth brush to help shift gunk.
May not be an approved method but it worked for me!
It may be enough to free off the valve without removing it?

[davebb]

Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006

Can anybody help please. I have a 2006 MY V70 D5 185 Manual which is showing the dreaded Engine System Service Required fault message and the car is in low power mode when it feels as it the turbocharger is not working. The fault codes are:
ECM-4430 EGR Valve
ECM-6820 Turbo actuator. Signal too low
ECM-4510 EGR cooler bypass valve. Signal too low
ECM-6690 GLow relay control
ECM-6500 Engine Pads
ECM-4450 EGR position sensor. Faulty signal

Also the real time data stream shows the EGR Valve at 100% irrespective of throttle position.

From my previous experience and reading the SkintKnuckles thread my analysis is that the EGR valve is stuck i.e. 4430 is the primary issue and all the other codes except 6690 relate to the this problem.

About 3 years and 25,000 miles ago I removed and cleaned the DPF, cleaned out the EGR valve, valve/manifold pipe, manifold and replaced the throttle body and fitted new injectors. This was all done with the EGR still on the car and since then the car has been great. The card has been laid up for the last 6 months but has been started up and run for 15-20 minutes to get really warm every couple of weeks with no problem messages displayed. Sod's law that the moment I un-sorn the car and tax it the Engine System Service message comes up.

Yesterday I tried to take out the EGR to try and get better access but the V clamp that connects the cooler to the metal flexible pipe completely defeated me. I removed the two bolts, cables and clips at the front of the EGR, I also removed the pipe from the air filer assembly down to the turbo that runs alongside part of the cooler so as to get access to the cooler bracket mounting bolt and V clamp. I removed Cooler mounting bolt and loosened off the V clamp jubilee clip as much as possible. The EGR was then loose at the front but I could not get the V clamp to budge at all.

The EGR had a layer of soot but didn't look clogged up. As my wife needed the car today I cleaned the EGR anyhow and put it all back together but I still have exactly the same problems and error codes.

Questions:
Am I on the right path in thinking I have a stuck EGR valve. I assume that lack of use has caused the soot to solidify more than normal and this has jammed the valve.

Can it I release the EGR valve/piston if I can get it off.

If so how do I get the V clamp to separate and release. It looks like two separate semi-circles with a jubilee clip welded to the top semi-circle. I tried using a flat head screwdriver to pry off the top half but no joy. Access is limited so experience is probably the best tool.

Am I better off trying to release the flexible pipe at the exhaust end and taking out the EGR+cooler+pipe? If so how do I get to it as it looks to be shielded to access from underneath the car?

Is the only solution a new EGR (which I think is £400 - £500 and I would rather not have to spend this) then I still have to get the V clamp off.

Any ideas or experience to share please.

Hi has the car been re-mapped /had the EGR switched off, if so that is why the EGR is showing 100% , I think that the EGR can not show were it is ,
your are reading were the ECU is telling the EGR were to move to,
But I could be wrong,
if you clear the codes do all of these come back, as a bad battery, low voltage, can make the car give bad codes,
Dave

[davebb]

also you need to see if the turbo actuator is moving, as if the vnt is jammed up the gears in the actuator can brake,
Dave

[TurboDiesel2006]

Thank you Joe H for the picture, it helps to understand how it works. I'll try completely undoing the jubilee clip then prising the inner sections. They didn't move last time but with the clip completely undone I might get better access. it will be a few days before I can do this as my wife needs to use the car and from experience I need to allow a good bit of time.

Hi davebb, the car has never been re-mapped or had the EGR blanked off. I did clear the codes several times but they came back again within a few seconds. I also tried disconnecting the battery for 6 hours but nothing changed. The battery is good and the low power mode when driving indicates to me that the codes are probably accurate. From the SkintKnuckles thread I think the other codes are a consequence of the 4430 EGR code.

If the 100% reading is what the ECU is asking the EGR to do, then, if it remains constant doesn't that indicate that the EGR is not responding, which can be interpreted as it being jammed?

[GrahamBrown1]

As part of normal operation once shut down the car performs a self clean of the egr using the stepper motor attached to the front of the valve. This basically moves the valve in and out. What happens normally is when the valve starts to clog the motor finds it harder to move the valve and eventually strips the internal gears. So not only do you get a non functioning egr valve but also a worn out motor.

The best fix is a new motor and valve as you know it’s not the easiest area to work in so may as well do them both together. I had to sort this on my 150k mile s60 before I sold it.