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V70 D5 battery drain problem.

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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 20:10   #1
jackthehat.co.uk
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Default V70 D5 battery drain problem.

Hi folks,

Our 2003 V70 D5 keeps flattening its battery. It stood for 4 days and the battery was so dead that absolutely nothing would come on, no interior lights, no dash lights, nothing.

The battery is relatively new and is in good condition.

I have just carried out a parasitic drain test and found the following:

Battery draw is 0.22 amps when car is left unlocked and doors closed.
Battery draw is 0.19 amps when car is left locked using key fob.

Removing fuse 32 from the driver's door fuse box reduces battery draw to 0.03 amps. Fuse 32 is for the "Central Electronic Module", courtesy lights and power steering.

No courtesy lights have been left on in the car.

The car has also had the dreaded "Alarm Service Required" message for the last 12 months or so. My local garage told me to lock the car with the key instead of the key fob to avoid battery drain due to the alarm problem. We have been doing this. The battery still drains even when the car is locked with the key or left completely unlocked. This leads me to believe that the battery drain is not being caused by the alarm fault.

Anyway, I have the following questions:

1. What can be considered a "normal" rate of battery draw for these cars? Is 0.22 amps considered OK?

2. If you think the battery draw is excessive, what can I do about it?
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 21:22   #2
wise old monkey
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have you removed the fuse to the alarm and are you going to replace the alarm unit
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 21:29   #3
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Remove fuse 38 at the end of the dash until you get the alarm siren sorted.
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 21:38   #4
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Have you watched this video which shows you how to do a parasitic drain test and fuse circuit checks on a Volvo:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCMQE2tgRSE

If you don't follow the procedure you may not give the CEM and other modules a chance to shut down properly and then your conclusions could be misleading.
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 21:54   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackthehat.co.uk View Post
1. What can be considered a "normal" rate of battery draw for these cars? Is 0.22 amps considered OK?

2. If you think the battery draw is excessive, what can I do about it?
Volvo's "official" standby current is roughly 0.037A so a 0.22A drain is several times what it should be.
Removing fuse 32 brings it in line so that's where you concentrate your efforts but by all means (carefully) follow the fuse checking procedure in the suggested video.

Do your indicators flash when you lock the car.
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 22:01   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogereld View Post
Have you watched this video which shows you how to do a parasitic drain test and fuse circuit checks on a Volvo:
The procedure in that video is good for any car not just Volvo.
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 22:02   #7
D5meister
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I have had a flat battery after a few days of mine standing.

Did not start, began clacking.

Got new batt from Euro CP - it didnt fit. It was 31.5cm long - the claw did not retain. Bosh 85A 5year was £119 with promo code.

Got a Yuasa 100A 5year in Hfrauds 36cm long - same length as original.
Paid £96 with trade card.

What I dont know is, do I have a draw on the car, or was the battery dead.

Charging old batt at mo. Will measure drain when new meter shows in post in a few days.



Assume you need at least half of the battery capacity for a start...??

Your 0.2A with a solid 80AH batt would run the car locked but 'awake' for

5hours/AH (from the 0.2A) x40 (1/2 of the 80A capacity)

200hrs = 8 days
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 22:26   #8
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Hi Chesh, how do you get the lamp in the boot to go off? Did you pul thw lamp or click the catch shut or sommat.

Apologies if in the vid
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 22:59   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D5meister View Post
Hi Chesh, how do you get the lamp in the boot to go off? Did you pul thw lamp or click the catch shut or sommat.

Apologies if in the vid
I pop the catch, same with the doors and bonnet.
Yes it's all in the video.
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Old Jan 5th, 2017, 00:27   #10
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Thanks for your help guys. That video was superb. I wish I'd watched it before doing my testing. I obviously didn't leave my car long enough to shut down properly. It sounds as though I need to give it a good half hour before taking the readings. I will do a re-test and report back.
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