V40 SE - Decisions...

[gatos]

Oh gosh. I am not the best person to ask about pricing..... It depends on spec of car, condition, service history, etc. Not having mot or tax and a small or major unsolved problem does not help to be honest. Ideally, selling a car with no issues or only minor ones, MOT and a bit of tax would help you sell it a lot easier and for a better price.

[andy_d]

fix the caliper , its not hard to do, mot it and sell it
you will get a Lot more that way than selling as is no mot/tax and known faults

don't break another perfectly good car that just needs a bit of work and one or two minor parts, but If you do ,, gimme a shout on the whole cruise control system , its one of the "wants" for mine
*stalk/pump/control box/hoses and brackets > the lot inc the pump in the engine bay

[AdamIngs]

Originally Posted by Volvo2002

It happens when the car has been left for a few hours. If it's been recently shut off and the started again, the symptoms don't appear.

If starting from cold I need to be gentle changing gear because if you lift off, the car shunts violently and then as I drive for say a minute or two it starts to loosen up and it goes away. I recently had a caliper replaced because it was bad (Dec 2012) My handbrake though can go up quite high and it doesn't hold the car even when the symbol appears on the dash, you need to pull it up quite a bit! I'm convinced it's hand brake/caliper related.

You see, mine was almost the opposite - if it had been left overnight, when first setting off the brakes would be fine, but after a while they'd start to stick. If I then stopped and left it for twenty minutes, the brakes would be unstuck again - and then gradually start sticking again.

In my case it sounds as if the fluid is pushed into the calipers, but can't return quickly. So a perished flexi hose could have caused that, but obviously wasn't as it was replaced but still happened. So I'm down to calipers sticking or master cylinder problem...I think incorrect brake bleeding can cause damage to the master cylinder...but not sure.

In your case it's odd - I would say you're probably right though, caliper and guides needs cleaning and greasing...or replacing if too bad...

[AdamIngs]

Originally Posted by andy_d

fix the caliper , its not hard to do, mot it and sell it
you will get a Lot more that way than selling as is no mot/tax and known faults

don't break another perfectly good car that just needs a bit of work and one or two minor parts, but If you do ,, gimme a shout on the whole cruise control system , its one of the "wants" for mine
*stalk/pump/control box/hoses and brackets > the lot inc the pump in the engine bay

Yeah, I'm sure it's not. I agree with you - I'd much rather not scrap or break an otherwise perfectly good car. I probably should find a trolley jack to borrow, some axle stands and just give it a bash if I was going to have it scrapped anyway - nothing to lose.

Gatos - I gave £1400 for the car (with 12 months MOT, 6 months tax). I've only put maybe 6000 miles on her since buying...I'd love to see just over £1000 (maybe £1200?!) for it MOTed and taxed and with no issues...but if I spend £500-600 on fixing and MOTing, but can only sell it for £800, then clearly I lose less money by scrapping it or selling for parts...

I really don't want to take the easy option (of scrapping), but literally no funds right now...and maybe for a good few weeks! My clients need to start paying invoices on time!

[Volvo2002]

Originally Posted by AdamIngs

You see, mine was almost the opposite - if it had been left overnight, when first setting off the brakes would be fine, but after a while they'd start to stick. If I then stopped and left it for twenty minutes, the brakes would be unstuck again - and then gradually start sticking again.

In my case it sounds as if the fluid is pushed into the calipers, but can't return quickly. So a perished flexi hose could have caused that, but obviously wasn't as it was replaced but still happened. So I'm down to calipers sticking or master cylinder problem...I think incorrect brake bleeding can cause damage to the master cylinder...but not sure.

In your case it's odd - I would say you're probably right though, caliper and guides needs cleaning and greasing...or replacing if too bad...

Seems about right referencing mine. A mechanic not long back did comment on my handbrake and that it was in need of adjusting - so, I am guessing that is linked to my problem.

I'm going to get it sorted soon enough - service is my first priority though

[gatos]

If it was still on the road, you could have brought it over and I could have a look at it....

[andy_d]

£500/600 on parts??
you totally replacing Everything that touches the brakes then ???

you can get a 2nd hand remanufactured caliper for £80 (with £30 back when return your old one)
pads don't cost that much ,, rufe/frf with the c4 discount code,, or Ebay <>Anglia Volvo <>parts monster for gen ones
ditto disks if you need those as well

I replaced 2 rear calipers, rear pads all 4 pipes All 4 flexi hoses front pads and disk , fluid And swapped to braided steel hoses for no where near that *and I chucked the car at a Volvo indy for the rear r/h pipe due to not fancying dropping the tank and got no where near that cost,, even with the lowloader to take the car to the indy !

[AdamIngs]

Originally Posted by gatos

If it was still on the road, you could have brought it over and I could have a look at it....

Would have been ideal...although the past couple if weeks even shorter journeys made the wheel stick quite badly! Not sure it'd have made it across London! Thanks for the offer though!

I guess my options are;

1) try to get hold of a trolley jack/axle stands...take a look at it myself. Flush the system, take off the caliper, clean up and grease if that seems to be the problem. Refit with new pads on NSF and OSF. Inspect hoses, replace if necessary. Refill system. Sell/swap for smaller car.

2) see if Jabe is interested for a half decent sum...if he were to offer £500 for it in it's current state, I'd most probably take it It is a nice spec, and all those extras work perfectly. It's an amazing car to drive when it's running right - really comfortable, especially on long motorway trips, looks lovely (I still think the V40 classic is a great looking car even against modern stuff)...

3) wait until I have the funds to let a garage fix it. MOT and tax and either sell/swap for a smaller car (what car though?! VW Polo? Anyone have any opinions on Fords - Ka, Fiesta? Or Vauxhall Corsa? Any recommendations for a cheap runabout for driving in London traffic?!)

There is a factor I haven't mentioned - the car isn't in MY garage, it's in my mother in law's garage! Dare I hold off too long and risk incurring her wrath?!!!

[AdamIngs]

Originally Posted by andy_d

£500/600 on parts??
you totally replacing Everything that touches the brakes then ???

you can get a 2nd hand remanufactured caliper for £80 (with £30 back when return your old one)
pads don't cost that much ,, rufe/frf with the c4 discount code,, or Ebay <>Anglia Volvo <>parts monster for gen ones
ditto disks if you need those as well

I replaced 2 rear calipers, rear pads all 4 pipes All 4 flexi hoses front pads and disk , fluid And swapped to braided steel hoses for no where near that *and I chucked the car at a Volvo indy for the rear r/h pipe due to not fancying dropping the tank and got no where near that cost,, even with the lowloader to take the car to the indy !

I meant the cost of taxing, MOTing and having a garage diagnose and fit the parts...my guess is that would come to near £500 to get the car roadworthy and saleable...being able to diagnose, purchasing the parts myself, and fitting the parts would cost a lot less, but trying to sell even a good car without MOT would reduce the price anyone would be likely to pay...so an MOT is a must, and then i'd be praying nothing else would fail it!