'98 S40 1.9 T4 problem

[960kg]

If you are going to continue to alter the turns on the actuator you HAVE to have a boost guage fitted otherwise you can do damage.

The max. amount you can get is 6 turns but it will run rough and can do damage!

[aLLaN86]

Originally Posted by 960kg

If you are going to continue to alter the turns on the actuator you HAVE to have a boost guage fitted otherwise you can do damage.

The max. amount you can get is 6 turns but it will run rough and can do damage!

You said 6 turns, did u mean full turns(360 degree turns) or half turns(180 degrees) like some other people say in different forums. I tryed and i couldnt go past 3 full turns because the locknut is in the way and doesn't go any further. Does this mean someone already had adjusted the actuator rod shorter before i did?

[960kg]

Originally Posted by aLLaN86

You said 6 turns, did u mean full turns(360 degree turns) or half turns(180 degrees) like some other people say in different forums. I tryed and i couldnt go past 3 full turns because the locknut is in the way and doesn't go any further. Does this mean someone already had adjusted the actuator rod shorter before i did?

A turn is 360 degrees!

If you cannot go past the locknut then the previous owner has already done 3 turns from std.

The std. setting gives 11.6 psi on the manual transmission `98 T4.

You should not do half turns,180 degrees, as the actuator adjuster wears on an angle and so you think half a turn but in fact it won`t be because of the angle against the wastegate pin so you cannot give accurately boost figures for half turns only full turns.

Five full turns from Std. setting will give you around 19psi on an unworn actuator adjuster. Six will give around 21psi which results in the engine running not really smooth when on full boost.

[aLLaN86]

Thanks for the answer, i expected that u meant full turns, some guys on other forums need to learn this also and not talk about turns as half-turns, it makes understanding things very difficult if everyone doesnt think the same way. One more thing can make turning the rod difficult more than 3 turns is that if the rod is very rusted like mine is near the locknut, maybe there still is a thread under that rust, i try to clean it a bit to be sure before turning the rod back again. If no luck then i take it apart and turn it back at least half or one and a half turns.

[aLLaN86]

Ok, haven't written for long time. I ordered the GRJ235 alternative pump from Europe this time but i cant remember which direction(front, back or left/right) the side pipe should be facing or does it matter? This time ordered both filters also, last time i changed only the one that fitted directly onto pump and the filter from the bottom i left the old one but it wasn't looking nice even after trying to clean it.
The reason i will change the pump again is that on tight turns it feels like the engine suffers from not getting the right amount of fuel and starts choking or so?! And sometimes the stuttering occur on heavy accelerations in straight line but its a rare to happen.
I installed the boost gauge also but is it right that the boost doesn't rise above 0,9 bar on full throttle and lowers a bit at about 4,5k-5k(havent tested exactly) rpms, even though i altered the actuator rod to raise the boost?
If the ignition is off the gauge "zero" isnt exactly 0,0 bar, it looks like -0,1 bar, could this be a reason that the max boost isnt 1 bar and it is 0,9 instead? If the car is running then the gauge shows a lot of vacuum but steady not jumping or anything when im not touching the gas pedal. Such a big vacuum about -0,6 bar is ok when the car is running?

By the way, has anybody tested the "throttle opening" value with universal OBD scanners or VIDA, my Delphi DS150E shows that the max opening is about 79%?! I have fitted another TPS but still same numbers.

[Ginga]

Adjusting the actuator will allow you to get to the stock boost again.
Having the boost gauge installed you can control the amount of boost by further adjusting the rod.

The internet says to keep it below 1.1-1.2bar.

-0,6bar at idle sounds normal. Mine runs between -0,6 and -0,7bar (when hot).

[960kg]

@Ginga

Because we are talking `98 T4 1855 here then i don`t know why you have this model as the more economical 165bhp would suit??

You are really vastly underpowered because of your boost pressures which is decidedly a great waste of performance.

You are nowhere near the standard boost figures for a Manual Transmission `98 T4
I am not saying run at 1.3 bar but i did for around 3 yrs with no detriment to the engine at all because it is plainly a Phase1 T4 with the stronger forged pistoned engine etc.

You are not even reaching the middle value on the chart?





.

[aLLaN86]

960kg, was something for me also in your answer or was it all to Ginga? What all the numbers that are colored in black mean in there?

[960kg]

Originally Posted by aLLaN86

Ok, haven't written for long time. I ordered the GRJ235 alternative pump from Europe this time but i cant remember which direction(front, back or left/right) the side pipe should be facing or does it matter? This time ordered both filters also, last time i changed only the one that fitted directly onto pump and the filter from the bottom i left the old one but it wasn't looking nice even after trying to clean it.
The reason i will change the pump again is that on tight turns it feels like the engine suffers from not getting the right amount of fuel and starts choking or so?! And sometimes the stuttering occur on heavy accelerations in straight line but its a rare to happen.
I installed the boost gauge also but is it right that the boost doesn't rise above 0,9 bar on full throttle and lowers a bit at about 4,5k-5k(havent tested exactly) rpms, even though i altered the actuator rod to raise the boost?
If the ignition is off the gauge "zero" isnt exactly 0,0 bar, it looks like -0,1 bar, could this be a reason that the max boost isnt 1 bar and it is 0,9 instead? If the car is running then the gauge shows a lot of vacuum but steady not jumping or anything when im not touching the gas pedal. Such a big vacuum about -0,6 bar is ok when the car is running?

By the way, has anybody tested the "throttle opening" value with universal OBD scanners or VIDA, my Delphi DS150E shows that the max opening is about 79%?! I have fitted another TPS but still same numbers.

First of all the Walbro GRJ235 is the standard fuel pump that Volvo actually use.

Ideally the side pipe should face the front of the car but as this is the std. pump when you assemble it into the plastic swirl pot the orientation of the side spigot should automatically align itself as the electric wires and also the convoluted rubber connection pipe will be in their proper position. On an aftermarket pump you have to change over the connection spades on the wires as they are opposite to the std. pump.

One reason you may get fuel starvation is because the two filters on the bottom of the pump... one has a non return valve to stop the fuel escaping back out the plastic pot as the idea is to keep the fuel in it for stopping starvation so however you drive the pot is still full of fuel. Make sure this filter is on the correct way before the larger one is on afterwards.

When taking the big black collar off the pump on top of the tank you should of marked it`s position with a marker pen or something so that when you assemble you know the orientation of the pump inside as you can`t see it when tightening up!!!!! This can cause starvation also.

Good Luck





.

[960kg]

Originally Posted by aLLaN86

960kg, was something for me also in your answer or was it all to Ginga? What all the numbers that are colored in black mean in there?

The black numbers on the left are millimetres of rod travel for the given boost.
So the rod should move from std. position 7mm to give 11.6 psi or 80kPa or .08bar.

All the black numbers by the red numbers of psi which i put in are kPa pressure numbers and if you divide by 100 = bar.