|
200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
Information |
|
Coolant/AntifreezeViews : 1384 Replies : 15Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Mar 1st, 2006, 09:08 | #11 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2014 23:12
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Londinium
|
Thanks Clifford, I've just found out that GSF have a newish branch 3 miles from my house and I'm about to jump in a taxi to pick up a radiator from them.
Simple job eh, should take me about 2 days then ;-) Thanks for the advice, I was half thinking of driving the 3 miles and your post made me think twice and book a taxi. Regards Ben |
Mar 2nd, 2006, 09:15 | #12 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 12:45
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
|
3 miles ? You could walk it, they're not very heavy!
You might get away with it by driving there (fit it in their forecourt) but on the other hand may be not, so why risk it? I recall a question on Brickboard from someone who had removed the water pump in the street, but now had to shift the car round the block. The concensus was "may be", but allow for the unexpected traffic hold-up. You may find as I did that with a new radiator the engine now runs cool. Check the thermostat is working and the correct temperature rating. Also the viscous fan coupling. Mine had seized in lock position. Good luck. |
Mar 2nd, 2006, 10:52 | #13 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2014 23:12
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Londinium
|
Lazy I know, I got a taxi to/from my local GSF to get the radiator then fitted it at lunchtime. Luckily enough I was working from home today so It was the ideal day for it to break if there can be an ideal time.
I had to hacksaw the two lower pipes off the old rad due to rusty clips, but they were long enough to fit back onto the new rad. Bought a selection of new metal clips to hold the tubes in place and will probably replace the tubes too in the near future ! I didn't notice 'till I'd fitted the thing but it has an extra connection at the top on the left that my old rad didn't have, I think it may be for air con which I don't have ? Anyway it had a screw on metal cap with a hole about 1cm in the middle which I presume is for the air con pipe. I had to fabricate something to plug this hole using a rubber grommet and a small round metal thing that I put under the cap then tightened it down. So far, no leaks but I'm going to keep an eye on it and try and get hold of some new piping just to tidy it up. Thanks for the help Clifford |
Mar 2nd, 2006, 13:43 | #14 |
Master Member
|
Quote: - Can I drive it at all with no coolant/antifreeze in the system ?
For short periods while checking for leaks, ( a few days ) it is ok to use water only provided the outside temperature won't go near freezing )day or night) . At the moment, in UK temps at night are sub zero. If you freeze the water, you will cause expensive damage. For longer periods of running with only water in the coolant system, corrosion damage can occur, usually to the cylinder head. ivor940 Last edited by ivor940; Mar 2nd, 2006 at 13:50. |
Mar 2nd, 2006, 14:48 | #15 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2014 23:12
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Londinium
|
Thanks Ivor, I've got the new rad in now and the system is full of coolant/antifreeze so I should be OK.
I'm just going to be keeping an eye on it for any slight leaks that may show up where I've connected the hoses etc. Regards Ben |
Mar 5th, 2006, 19:48 | #16 |
VOC16743
|
Agree with Deano, Radweld is a get-u-home answer not a cure, best to fit a new rad.
__________________
'07 V70 T5 and '99 V40 1.8 XS also 1970 Morris Minor Traveller. Previously: '92 940s retired @ 195k, 87' 240GL retired @ 250k with terminal metal moth. |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|