850R Engine oils ?

You have not answered my questions yet, scared?

Some of the things you say are correct, spoilt by the lack of ability to embrace new technology, you have become old before your time.

Other comments you have made a laughable.

You seem to be hung up on the API spec, important it maybe but you have totally missed the point. The SG spec from a few years ago was the turning point in the industry where the base crude used for oils had to be of good quality as before this you could add product to get it through he test meeting the standard but it would brake down quickly. Good quality base crude means a good foundation for the oil to be built upon. The latest spec is SL and you can have a 10w/40 mineral meeting this spec, a 10w/40 semi or fully all under the same spec.
The difference between the mineral and the Fully synthetic in basic terms [for you chow man] is shown with two identical cars, a 10 thou service interval, one with the 10w/40 mineral based and the other with the fully synthetic. at the end of the test you will find the fully synthetic in far better condition and doing a better job than the mineral base.

The American courts decided that the word synthetic could be used on all oils as all oils are in a way containing some man made ingredients. Oil burns at 92 degrees [dam, just answered one of your questions] and to stop this you need a little help from man, part of the additives package as your engine runs at 100 degrees plus. Therefore it is beneficial to advertise your oil as a synthetic or semi when it is not. There is mineral oil and there is fully synthetic [man made] Semi sits in-between as a blend of the two to get the best protection at an affordable price. Calling oils synthetic when they are not is I believe very misleading to the general public confusing matters further.

Modern engines need to stay clean, one of the many ways to remove unwanted deposits is to burn it off safely, this is done using the oil as a carrier to do so, this will protect the cars engine, ancillaries [turbo, hydraulic valves etc.] and most importantly the emissions and the catalytic convertor. CASTROL EDGE.

A survey years ago by Duckhams showed that the average service interval at the time was 6,000 mile but the owners were not changing oil for an average of 11,000 miles.

[740Estate]

*edit* re-read thread

[pookie]

When I started in the motor business some 40 odd years ago I worked for a British Motor Corporation dealership, and every 24,000 miles sumps were removed and all the sludge scraped off and cleaned out. These were the days when oil was changed every 3,000 miles.
Things are a lot better now and engine oils are a vastly improved product but one thing remains exactly the same. No matter how expensive the oil is :-

OIL IS CHEAPER THAN METAL.

Here endeth the lesson.

Pookie

[Cypher007]

well getting back to the original question. im using mobil 1 at the moment, but ive just read a thread over in the 900/90 series section on a similar subject, and im now intrigued by an apparent to the Amsoil range of oils. the only thing that concerns me though is there fully synthetic is 0w-30, which seems a little thin when things get hot. they do do a european 5w-40, but it doesnt call it a "fully" synthetic. im beginning to wonder if, as was mentioned earlier, some fully synthetics are not and these have the 5w-40 range where as mobil 1 is a 0w-40 so presumably a "fully" synthetic? im also intrigued by there dual oil filter system which could be a good idea if it could be made to fit a european engine.

p.s. i think this thread has gotten out of hand with a couple of members and maybe we should try and stick to the original point that was asked, and not have a contest on who's the most clued up on oil. i think we can leave the decision of what oil to use to stevesR.

thanks mike AKA dog and duck, but you have made it quite clear to most on here from your very first post on the matter that you dont really have grasp of the subject (to put it kindly) so lets leave at that, you carry on believing the story about the amazing constant loss evaporating oil system bmw and audi now use if that makes you happy and we will have to beg to differ on the matter, the thing that does surprise me is that its not only me telling you were talking gibberish it was plenty of other informed members however not to worry, stay safe and enjoy your t5r, ps arnt there rules about multi identities im sure forum members are only supposed to have one! nothing more pathetic than someone inventing a imaginary friend!

[bobcat]

Originally Posted by DOG and DUCK

Modern engines need to stay clean, one of the many ways to remove unwanted deposits is to burn it off safely, this is done using the oil as a carrier to do so, this will protect the cars engine, ancillaries [turbo, hydraulic valves etc.] and most importantly the emissions and the catalytic convertor. CASTROL EDGE.
.

Im sorry mike, but you still spouting total rubbish.

just do a search for castrol longlife in google, the first link is a good read. it mentions nowhere that the oil is designed to evaporate, and states the top up kits are only incase you need to top up between services.

yes oil is designed to pick up the byproducts from combustion, but not to get rid of them by being burn off. when oil needs changing it is because it is "spent" so if you wanted to get rid of all the byproducts you would have to burn the contents of your sump between services and top up every day.

And ask yourself this, would a car maker design their car to loose oil when they know full well that most people dont check their oil levels?

I think you will find you get 1l of oil with the new cars for use during the run in periods.

[MIKES T5R]

I have stopped the post, as chow says it's best we agree to disagree.

However the Dog and Duck is someone else, i am not signing on under two names.

Originally Posted by MIKES T5R

I have stopped the post, as chow says it's best we agree to disagree.

However the Dog and Duck is someone else, i am not signing on under two names.

course your not ,moderators please check the isp address out!

Hey chow man, this is the lanlord of the dog and duck, there is only one of me, so far you have made comments about oil and been pretty acurate with what you have said, but I believe you are incapable of change and grasping new technowledgy.
All I am asking is that you research the new oils supplied from Castrol for the cars mentioned to try and come up with and argument against my educated opinion. I do not wish to get angry with you and wish you no harm, I just think you have made your opinion clear and you are embarrassed about suddenly having to possible change your opinion. If you can prove me wrong I will apologise and learn, until then let us keep it friendly.

BMW , etc. have designed an engine with co-operation from Castrol to increase the service intervals to save the customer money and use this as an advertising tool. If you have a car in need of a service every 10 thou this will mean three lots of labour, plugs, oil, filters,computor resetting and hassle of taking it in, etc., so why not have a car capable of 30 thou before the need for a service, just needing the oil topping up in-between.

Now the plugs and filters are capable of 30 thou it makes sense to do everything at the same time.

Cypher007
The Mobil 1 0w/40 is a great oil for your car, one of the best synthetics in the world and you should stick to it, well worth the initial out lay.
The Viscosity [resistance to flow] is measured at a set tempreture, the faster it flows the lower the number, the benefits to you of a 0w will be easier starting and better start up protection as the oil will reach the top end quicker, less strain and wear on the starter and battery in all weather conditions. The viscosity when hot in this case is a /40, this is what your car should be running on. Using a so called thicker oil like a /50 or /60 means the resistance to flow is greater and this means you will be loosing power, This is why more manufactures are changing to /30 grades as this helps the car to be more economical. As engines change and there are more moving parts and hydraulics the /30 grade moves faster helping with lubrication and the removal of heat, as your car was designed around a /40 oil stick to this grade.
Another benefit of the oil grades being closer together i.e. 10w/30 is that you need less additives and viscosity improver [VIs] to keep the oil from braking down and performing for longer, a 10w/60 would need more VIs and more additives.

Again the problem with a large number of customers is that they no nothing about oil and have to face paying more and more for the oil they buy, often making the wrong decision buying cheaper oil or sticking to something they no and trust that maybe out of date. The manufactures want there cars to have a good reputation with more people willing to complain if anything they buy lets them down, it is quite often the case with engines that the customer is at fault for not using the correct product for whatever reason upsetting the running of there car then the company gets a bad reputation, so take the decision process out of the consumers hands and attempting to make them use the correct oil would be very beneficial to them and of course the oil supplier.

A big sorry to MIKE's T5R as I used his screen name for my first comments but now I do my own posting.

[Bob04917]

Today's broadcast of "The Car Doctor" dealt with this very subject of motor oil. The link to the first hour is:

http://www.wor710.com/pages/44283.php

You might find it interesting.