Lumenition coil for b230e?

[JDW3696]

Afternoon all.
I am replacing my coil as it is ancient but I am unsure as to what to replace it with. A mechanic told me the lumenition megaspark
4 is brilliant so do I go that route or stick to the Bosch original?
Has anyone got any suggestions. Many thanks.
Joe

[360beast]

Any particular reason you want to replace it together than it is old? I've never known a 7/900 series coil fail.

[JDW3696]

Not really. Was just replacing all the ignition side of things and was wondering whether to go for a standard or upgrade it.
Joe

[360beast]

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Not really. Was just replacing all the ignition side of things and was wondering whether to go for a standard or upgrade it.
Joe

If it ain't broke...

Make sure you only use Bougicord HT leads as they are the only ones redblocks run properly on it would seem.

[lnparry]

Joe,

If you can find the spec and have a multimeter you could test. My 1990 XJS also uses a Bosch coil and the workshop manual quotes acceptable resistance ranges of:

0.45 to 0.55 ohm primary resistance
5.4 to 6.6 kohm secondary resistance

Might give you a starting point.

Cheers,
LeeP

[JDW3696]

Hello. Okay. Yeah I suppose you have a point. I changed the plugs which were volvo for ngk and replaced the bougicourd Leads with skandix. New distributor and rotor and its running much better.
Maybe ill swap the leads back and see if there is a difference. The poor running may well have been down to the distributor and rotor which clearly hadn't been changed for a while.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Hello. Okay. Yeah I suppose you have a point. I changed the plugs which were volvo for ngk and replaced the bougicourd Leads with skandix. New distributor and rotor and its running much better.
Maybe ill swap the leads back and see if there is a difference. The poor running may well have been down to the distributor and rotor which clearly hadn't been changed for a while.

Leave the coil alone!

Have you cleaned out the PCV system yet?

What gap did you set the plugs to?

[JDW3696]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Leave the coil alone!

Have you cleaned out the PCV system yet?

What gap did you set the plugs to?

Okay. Will do.
Didn't set the gap in the plugs. Suppose I should have done really. What should they be set too?
I'll have to look into cleaning the pcv system. Not sure how to do that.

[360beast]

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Okay. Will do.
Didn't set the gap in the plugs. Suppose I should have done really. What should they be set too?
I'll have to look into cleaning the pcv system. Not sure how to do that.

Plug gap is 0.7mm should be NGK BPR6ES plugs.

The PCV system is a black plastic box under the inlet manifold, it will have solid carbon build up inside, I've found the best way to clean them is to leave them soaking in petrol for a few hours then blow out with an air line and it will blow loads of crud out. If yours is a non turbo then there will be a gauze filter in one of the hoses going to the PCV box that will need cleaning too.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by JDW3696

Okay. Will do.
Didn't set the gap in the plugs. Suppose I should have done really. What should they be set too?
I'll have to look into cleaning the pcv system. Not sure how to do that.

Should be 0.65mm on the B230E - also check the injector seals as they are prone to leaking and cause rough running.

Also check the ignition vacuum advance tube hasn't fallen out of the EZK unit above the pedals.

New NGK plugs are usually set to 0.9mm at the factory which represents about 25k miles use over the correct gap.

Invest in some Carb and Air Intake Cleaner, remove the flame trap from the top of the oil separator on the left hand side of the block, open it up (top and bottom halves clip together), remove and clean the mesh inside, also clean the stubs where the air goes in and out. Use a long piece of tubing to extend the stub on the oil separator and give it a good squirt inside - it will clean the inside of the oil separator and the solvent in the carb cleaner will evaporate so it doesn't thin the oil.
Follow the small bore hose from the flame trap to the inlet manifold and check/clean the stub on the inlet manifold.

That should help smooth the running somewhat. Clean it again in about a months time then 2 months later and then annually.

Also check the air filter is clean and there are no leaks between the inlet manifold and AAV mounted between #2 & #3 inlet tracts. When the engine is hot, remove the top hose from the AAV and squirt some carb cleaner into it. Wait a few minutes and give another squirt then replace the hose. Leave until cold before starting, probably be an extra bit of smoke which will soon clear. That should bring the cold idle up a wee bit which will be useful this time of year.