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D5 crank sensor ring number of holes from TDC

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Old May 13th, 2020, 13:26   #1
Boobush
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Default D5 crank sensor ring number of holes from TDC

Hello

My car: V70 P3, 6-speed automatic, year 2007/12, 136kW
I'm having trouble getting my engine timing correct.
How many teeth (square holes) [ ] should there be on sensor ring wheel to long square hole @ TDC when crank pulley is aligned?

The long square hole should be about 90 degrees from TDC but whats the exact number of holes it should be ?

I'll add a random picture from internet to better explain what holes i'm talking about.

Thanks in advance!
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Old May 21st, 2020, 22:45   #2
MissSpentYouth
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Hi, not quite sure what you are trying to do but you would normally time the engine from the other end Cam Belt end. There is a tooth on the crank pulley at that end which aligns to a mark on the plastic engine cover and similarly at the top a mark on the cam sprocket which aligns to the plastic cam cover.

If you have the top cam cover off there are also marks on the two cam sprockets

None of these marks actually relate to TDC though

If you want to find TDC proper then a dial gauge down No1 injector hole is your best bet
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Old May 22nd, 2020, 11:27   #3
Boobush
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Hi

I have a feeling that one or more components are not meant for my engine and want to make sure.


The engine seized due to alternator belt being prematurely broken (new belt lasted 25000 kms) and getting into the cambelt and destroying all hydraulic lifter seats. But it was running a bit sluggish before the engine accident and I found out that the engine has seized before.

I rebuilt the engine with new upper head.
All the marks are are aligned (see pictures).

My engine is out of timing by aproximately one teeth but I cannot figure out why. It starts bit rough and it doesn't have the power as my friends V70 with same engine, same gearbox. That's why I started to investigate.

I looked crank sensor and camshaft sensor data with oscilloscope and compared this to my friends car, which is ok and my engine is 1 teeth out of alignment.

I'm thinking that crank pulley? is wrong or maybe the flywheel crank sensor ring is wrong? damaged or what else, that is why I need information of the flywheel sensor ring holes to figure out what is wrong.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20191012_163429.jpg (380.3 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20191012_163540.jpg (293.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20191012_172652_BURST1.jpg (298.8 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20191012_172703_BURST1.jpg (314.1 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20191012_172713.jpg (204.0 KB, 15 views)

Last edited by Boobush; May 22nd, 2020 at 12:58.
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Old May 25th, 2020, 20:40   #4
MissSpentYouth
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Hi Again,

Sounds odd

Often when the pistons hit the valves on this engine the exhaust cam can rotate relative to its sprocket, it is only an interference fit. The inlet cam never does this.

If you put a drill bit into the oil way adjacent to the sprocket and then count the number of teeth round to the timing mark you should have 12 to 13. Looking at your last picture where you can see both the oil way and the timing mark it looks about right.

In my experience if the cam rotates then it tends to rotate quite a bit ie 90 degrees not 1 tooth.

Have you definitely got the right cams in your engine the manuals and autos have different cam shafts if you fit the wrong ones then you will have great difficulty starting the engine. Runs ok once started though and will start on easy start.

The exhaust camshaft sensor pickup profile is dramatically different on the manual relative to the auto.

If your engine is now back together and have a friend with the same engine and transmission then time them both up using the mark on the inlet cam sprocket then take out the exhaust cam sensor and look down the hole.

On the manual (I think) you should see an edge on the cam shaft pointing straight up at 12:00 oclock check they are both the same. If you have the auto (could be the other way round) then you will just see a smooth curve, rotate each engine round a tooth at a time and check the arrival of the edge is the same on both engines.

Hope this makes sense

cheers

Ben
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Old May 25th, 2020, 20:48   #5
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If your alternator belt failed prematurely then best change the tensioner as often they become weak over time.

If you find your exhaust cam has slipped by just one tooth then you could fit it one tooth out to compensate though this would be a bit of a bodge but may help in confirming your problem without buying a new cam
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Old Jun 16th, 2020, 15:51   #6
Boobush
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Hi

The car is driving better now.
It had many faults:
1) since the DPF is programmed out, a lot of trouble codes do not appear
2) EGR valve was bad
3) Common rail pressure regulator was bad
4) the engine timing was off, I put it exactly like my friends car (took oscilloscope pictures from cam and crank sensor). It΄s a bit advanced than the engine timing marks.
5) 2 injectors are bad, or atleast on their way out.

Still the car doesnt have the bottom end torque it should have, atleast MPG is ok now.
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Old Jun 16th, 2020, 16:18   #7
Clan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boobush View Post
Hello

My car: V70 P3, 6-speed automatic, year 2007/12, 136kW
I'm having trouble getting my engine timing correct.
How many teeth (square holes) [ ] should there be on sensor ring wheel to long square hole @ TDC when crank pulley is aligned?

The long square hole should be about 90 degrees from TDC but whats the exact number of holes it should be ?

I'll add a random picture from internet to better explain what holes i'm talking about.

Thanks in advance!
you need to make sure that the crankshaft is at top dead centre number one cylinder first . The only accurate way to do this is use the positioning tool which goes in a plugged hole in the cylinder block near the starter motor .
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