Electrical problem 940

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Referring to your earlier photo :



The crankshaft is at TDC in this photo - see the keyway in the crankshaft? See the pointer on the timing cover behind it? THey are lined up, this is TDC. As long as the camshaft marks are in alignment with the marks on the backplate to confirm the cam is at TDC, you should be right on everything

However, the cam lobes don't appear to be in the right position for TDC - i could be wrong but i don't think so.

Has the bolt securing the cam drive pulley ever been removed to your knowledge? Usually there is a dowel pin or roll pin in the drive end of the cam shaft to engage with the drive pulley to ensure correct timing, i'm wondering if this has been previously lost and not replaced. It is item #32 in this pic :

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...rimLevel=24679



It's also not unknown for this pin to shear which again could alter the relationship between camshaft and pulley. It is cheap and still available :

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...46/951963.html

It's listed under a different label number in that diagram but is the same part. At this stage of the game, i really think it would be worthwhile checking to make sure this spring pin (as Volvo call it) is there and intact. It would certainly explain a lot if it wasn't!

I don’t know if cam sprocket has ever been removed. So TDC is correct. It lines up. But the camshaft is not lining up. Hm. So item 32 is broken and therefore isn’t lining up with camshaft sprocket marks. Before I bought this car. Previous owner said it’s been sitting in a barn for 1 year.

Can I adjust the cam lobe #1 pointing right up. And then see what happens when I crank it?

If that doesn’t help. It’s the item 32 that’s broken then? Well I’ll try to adjust the cam pointing up

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Can I adjust the cam lobe #1 pointing right up. And then see what happens when I crank it?

If that doesn’t help. It’s the item 32 that’s broken then? Well I’ll try to adjust the cam pointing up

NO!!!! That's just pure guesswork!

You need to check item #32 in that diagram by removing the cam pulley bolt and ensuring it is still there and intact.
Once the bolt is out, you should find a large washer behind it that will cover the end of the roll pin (spring pin) and you may be able to see straightaway that the pin is missing by not being able to look further than the back of the pulley into the end of the cam shaft.

Do you have any Loctite Threadlock? Clean and degrease the cam pulley bolt and add a couple of drops to the bolt threads before final refitting of the cam pulley bolt to ensure the bolt doesn't work loose in service.

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

NO!!!! That's just pure guesswork!

You need to check item #32 in that diagram by removing the cam pulley bolt and ensuring it is still there and intact.
Once the bolt is out, you should find a large washer behind it that will cover the end of the roll pin (spring pin) and you may be able to see straightaway that the pin is missing by not being able to look further than the back of the pulley into the end of the cam shaft.

Do you have any Loctite Threadlock? Clean and degrease the cam pulley bolt and add a couple of drops to the bolt threads before final refitting of the cam pulley bolt to ensure the bolt doesn't work loose in service.

I’m thankful for the help I’m receiving. It’s not worth it anymore I have checked cam item 32 it’s there and not broken. Engine is timed now. It’s still the same bouncing tachometer, and idle is useless. Almost stalls. I have to say. Thanks for your help.

This car is not worth our time. This car is dead. It’s useless now. It’s not worth our time. It have seen better days. Its inside the engine the problem lies. But I won’t look inside. Too much work and effort.

This thread have been going for days now. Over 300 replies. This problem occurred first with a jumping tachometer sometime. But I didn’t mind it. Idling was fine. No problems aswell. One day the car wouldn’t start on the first try. But the second crank made it start. So I don’t know what the problem is. And I think you guys shouldn’t be thinking about this problem anymore. You guys have done your part and been very kind. It’s been fun.

I’m going to sell this car so someone who will either take care of it and fix it.

Either way. Thanks for the assistance

- Ammorack

[mocambique-amazone]

I will understand you...

do a last check.

under the strenghening at the right front dome of the McPherson strut are 2 grey plug connections. open them, add some contact spray and put them together again, sometimes the pins are corroded and this will result in electrical faults.

Good luck no matter what happens, Kay

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

I will understand you...

do a last check.

under the strenghening at the right front dome of the McPherson strut are 2 grey plug connections. open them, add some contact spray and put them together again, sometimes the pins are corroded and this will result in electrical faults.

Good luck no matter what happens, Kay

I don’t have the car anymore. It’s sold.
Thanks for the help guys.