Apologies in advance! Engine oil

[AndyV7o]

Just here to address a few old wives tales rife in this thread!
Some do have relevance in a sideways fashion, but that'll get cleared up.

There is no harm in using synthetic in an older engine.
Synthetic is better than semi, semi is better than mineral.
Synth isnt bad, semi/mineral arent better.
End of story.

There were, briefly, in the past issues with early fully synth, these were fully pao base oils, were soon rectified and have not been a thing for -decades-.

Where the other aspect prevails, and can happen is if an older engine has been run on poor oil and services neglected, any gunk preventing leaks from worn seals can get cleaned out by a quality modern oil, but, this is not something specific to fully synthetic. Its down to the additive package, namely the detergents, which are by and large just the same in a 10w40 semi as they are in a 5w40 fully.
Modern oils contain seal conditioners to maintain seals.

Whilst GTX is probably a decent oil for these, it has evolved, and 'older' engines in the context of what GTX is aimed at are things from around the millenium.
In an engine from early 90's backwards you are better served by a classic specific oil as they have appropriate additives for older engines.
Here we come back to the synth is bad myth, as most modern oils dont always contain sufficient anti wear additives and appropriate proportions of others for older engines. This is not down to the base oil, and a lot of 10w40 are very similar in their make-up.
Most modern fully synthetic arent genuine synthetics, just highly 'purified' processed mineral base. Mineral, semi, fully all (mostly) come from the ground, its just down to the molecular structure and purity which differentiates them.

Base your oil choice on its hot rating, the second number, this is most important.
The first one simply doesnt want to be too thick, as a lower number means faster oil circulation when cold. 0w is still thicker when cold than a 50 hot grade. So 0w50 would be better in an old worn engine than 15w40.

The end of the tale, dont use too modern an oil, and choose wisely, but don't look at the base oil so much as its spec.
Classic specific would be better, but so long as the modern oil is A3/B4 spec and ideally API SL rather than SM/SN you should be covered. DON'T use A5/B5, DON'T use a C spec. 5w40 fully, 10w40 semi no difference other than the fully is a better oil quality wise.

Hope this helps!

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you AndyV7o.

I haven't noticed myths and I will not mention age or wives or tales.

So far as I can see what you say is consistent with the fundamental advice in this thread.

I am rather interested in your comments re oil for classic cars. I think that is the type of oil from Wilko that Bob has helpfully referred to, and the Duckhams that I am tempted by. I've also seen another brand that looks similar.

Stephen




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[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Thank you AndyV7o.

I haven't noticed myths and I will not mention age or wives or tales.

So far as I can see what you say is consistent with the fundamental advice in this thread.

I am rather interested in your comments re oil for classic cars. I think that is the type of oil from Wilko that Bob has helpfully referred to, and the Duckhams that I am tempted by. I've also seen another brand that looks similar.

Stephen




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Bob referenced Wilco - a chain of motorists shops. Duckhams is good or at least was.

[AndyV7o]

10w40 would be ideal, or 15w50, I dont know if they changed the internal tolerances since 1980, but by 1993 20w50 was well out of favour, the engine may well not be fussy, may or may not be internally revised, but its best to err on the side of caution IMO.
Wilko oil is made by Comma, not brilliant stuff but not terrible (though their gear oil is sh1te), Duckhams may well be better. Millers also fo a good range of classic oils, as do Fuzz Townshend's classic range.
Check opieoils, millers, fuzz Townshend's, etc see what ya can find.
If you only do 3k a year in fair weather, it isn't much of a concern what you use so long as it isnt cheap rubbish. If it gets used year round and used with purpose deffo better going semi 10w40/15w50. Do you have a handbook? What you need is a 1993 handbook to see what's specified, as -if- they tightened up the internal tolerances to properly utilise more modern oils (which does happen) you don't want to give the engine high blood pressure trying to push round 20w50.

[2011dandd]

Wow
Blinking heck!

Some great advice, cheers folks.

Looks like I opened that can of worms yet again.

[AndyV7o]

Lol!
Its always a minefield!
This is why I try and offer factual info in as much of a neutral way as possible, its up to the person to make their own choice at the end of the day.

Forums are lethal when it comes to oil advice and can cause more confusion than the op originally started with!
Try and collate the facts and differentiate from opinion or 'pub science' if in doubt, research it, but, that is one hell of a rabbit hole to go down, trust me... 😯🤨😢🙈

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Bob referenced Wilco - a chain of motorists shops.

Thank you David.

Bob ... I'm sorry for that.

P.S. David. I wonder if your "designed for semi synthetic" comment came from some Volvo handbook words that I read as permissive rather than designed for. Anyway I haven't seen anyone in this thread say it must or must not be mineral or semi or full synthetic.

A jolly good thread without any issues. Kushtie.





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[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by AndyV7o

Lol!
.... can cause more confusion ....

So true.

So far as I can decipher things, I shall use in future for my particular 240 ... Classic Car Oil with the additives package.

For me, it will be the brand that is green in a yellow can. Call it tried and tested brand, or brand loyalty, or silly olde nostalgia.




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[Bob Meadows]

Just to clarify:~
The Wilco mentioned is the high street store- The classic car oil 20/50 (green) is used in my Riley- historically Duckhams then they stopped making it- now available again but limited outlets. The Wilco brand is just as good (£18:00 5 Ltr)

For the two Volvo cars 240/V70 I use Wilco again 10/40 or 15/40 the oils are fine and all cars have a regular change, more than is necessary even with low mileage. Again 5L @ £18:00

I don't get hung up on oils- as long as they meet the specifications & a descent quality- the cars are fine on all the above.

Halfords also do a classic 20/50 @ £21:00
Regards Bob.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Just to clarify:~
The Wilco mentioned is the high street store- The classic car oil 20/50 (green) is used in my Riley- historically Duckhams then they stopped making it- now available again but limited outlets. The Wilco brand is just as good (£18:00 5 Ltr)

For the two Volvo cars 240/V70 I use Wilco again 10/40 or 15/40 the oils are fine and all cars have a regular change, more than is necessary even with low mileage. Again 5L @ £18:00

I don't get hung up on oils- as long as they meet the specifications & a descent quality- the cars are fine on all the above.

Halfords also do a classic 20/50 @ £21:00
Regards Bob.

Which wilco/wilko though?

https://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/?utm_med...6c4c7a9fdd34f5

Both can be classed as "high street stores" and this is where the spelling becomes important, not just for the sake of being pedantic!

Just as a point of interest, in a former incarnation i used to look after generators on various landfill sites and on one particular site, not only did i have to take oil sampes each week but on whichever generator had been used the previous week, change the oil regardless because the atmosphere was so corrosive.

It was at least a mornings work to do that because it was a large sump. That particular site always returned contaimants at a dangerous level whereas other sites using the same oil in the same sets could happily go 4-500 hours and their oil would still be in good condition - in need of changing ideally but still better than the site with the corrosive atmosphere.

To put those hourly figures into perspective, 500 hours running is roughly equivalent to 20k miles in a car at 40mph average speed.