HELLLLLPP!! Oil filter disaster 440/1.9 TD

[rustyold440]

Something has happened during my DIY service which is NOT good, so I'm begging for advice, wouldn't normally do this as my mechanical skills usually get me by, but I am COMPLETELY beaten by what should be the simplest of tasks - changing the oil filter, which have done dozens of times on other cars without a snag.

So here are the steps I took that got me to this point
1) Tried my trusty oil filter wrench. Found it to be too small for the filter
2) Thought ... hmm, put a screwdriver through and twist.
3) Put screwdriver through. Twist - just ripped the metal
4) Metal ripped wide open, I got the snippers on the tin to remove the paper inner and expose the base, rationale here being that I could drive the base off with a screwdriver and a hammer.
5) Tried various percussive methods, ranging from hammer and my biggest scewdriver using the oil holes. Not budging an inch.
6) Removed the radiator to give myself more access
7) screwed a allen bolt into one of the oil holes and using MASSIVE blows from the hammer and a pry bar to transmit them to the allen bolt, no success.
8) Disconnected and removed fan
9) Tried to DRILL extra oil holes the theory here being if I drill enough holes, the rubber ring might come away, allowing me to get molegrips or something on the threaded part.
10) Gave up in dispair having broken two drill bits due to drilling at awkward angles. ARRGGHHHH... I HATE WHERE THEY PUT THE DAMNED OIL FILTER

I've never any problem changing a filter before. It feels like the last person to fit a filter didn't oil it, and tightened it on as hard as possible with a wrench, or possibly x-threaded it. To add to the problems, my heavy hammer belting has damaged the thread right at the end.

So, does anyone have any advice they can offer?

If the part that the filter is screwed onto (oil pump??) has thread damage is possible to remove it and replace it? Is that a massive job? I'm seriously considering scrapping the whole car over this but I've thrown quite a bit of money at it on bits and bobs and before I started messing with it it seemed a good car. Any advice or comments welcomed..! Thanks.

[Chris1Roll]

hmmmm.

IIRC the threaded part should be replaceable without too much hassle, still thats a bridge to cross when you get to it. Don't take this at read, I can't remember for definite!

Given the amout of effort you've already put in, I would suggest juduicious use (very very carefully - if you damage the mating surface on the block you really are f****d - and block the holes with something to stop bits of metal getting in the engine) of a mini grinder with a zip disc in it, to cut throught the mating surface of the filter at two points. this should release the load on the thread and allow you to undo it. Unless of course as you suggest some twonk has cross threaded it, but lets hope not.

[Clan]

how about gripping whats left of the thick base with some big grips that would allow a fair bit of pressure to be exerted on the filter base ...

[rustyold440]

Its a good suggestion clan, but the recess on the engine really makes getting any kind of tool into this awkward spot nigh on impossible. I'm considering fabricating something - unfortunaltely I don't have any welding kit, but if accurately measured a big block of wood, about filter size (e.g. saw a section from a fencing post I have kicking about) and drill a centre hole for the screw part and put six screws in for each of the oil holes.

Then somehow fit a bolt onto the wood block to it and bring on my big ol' breaker bar. Failing that, I'll have to go buy a small grinder and try chris's method. The only I have grinder is big, and I really don't want to have to remove the pipework (which I think is power steering) to give me a really clear run at it.

[JIM C]

Does the oil filter housing unbolt on a 400 series because if it does remove the housing then remove the filter by using a vice.
Jim

[rustyold440]

I Wish it did, and it may do - I only have a haynes manual that covers petrols.

if I could get the whole thing off the engine everything would become easy peasy as access is a nightmare.

Its a renault lump I believe, but I've no info on it whatsoever... I wish I had a workshop manual or something for it so at least I could work out where the bolts are for it.. If I could get that part out of the engine that could be the answer.

[Clan]

no its fitted directly on the block , unless .. do you have an oil/water cooler beween the oil filter and cylinder block?

[rustyold440]

Clan: Ummm.. hard to say. from memory there is some kind of block with two pipes coming out of it (one inch-ish in diameter) but I could not see any bolts. There is a lot of corrosion and build up of oil and grime and its really hard to see what's going on.

I didn't look as to where the pipes were going to, I assumed they carry oil but I may well be wrong.

I have took the rad out from desperation, I don't even know if I can re-prime the water system, but for the time being if I can't get this filter of I am completely screwed. I will get out tomorrow and see if I can make some bodge-up to get purchase on what is left of the filter. Failing that, if anyone knows the TD 1.9 engine well and knows if the filter mounting block with 2 pipes comes off, please get in touch and let me know how..

[Clan]

Yes they are water pipes so you have the cooler sandwiched between the filter and block . Someone has rammed up the filter compressing the cooler so you will need to give it even more of a turn to free it . but the cooler will space it out from the block enough to get some good quality adjustable grips on to the flange to try and turn it .
you will need the grips on the underside and pointing to the gearbox and pull upwards to get the best grip as these grips only pull properly and dig in one way .

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by Clan

Yes they are water pipes so you have the cooler sandwiched between the filter and block . Someone has rammed up the filter compressing the cooler so you will need to give it even more of a turn to free it . but the cooler will space it out from the block enough to get some good quality adjustable grips on to the flange to try and turn it .
you will need the grips on the underside and pointing to the gearbox and pull upwards to get the best grip as these grips only pull properly and dig in one way .

That sounds like a good plan, even if you mangle the cooler up you can always replace it.
Take the water pipes off it and try undoing the whole lot.