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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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b16 engine overhaulViews : 16558 Replies : 148Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 23rd, 2020, 13:32 | #131 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
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Anti splash OK. Will run it for a few hundred km and then check. Thanks for all input
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Mar 24th, 2020, 12:52 | #132 |
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Last Online: Today 15:32
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Pop the end of the pipe into a plastic bottle so you can keep an eye on it.
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Mar 24th, 2020, 13:15 | #133 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Already done that. Keep safe. Us oldies need to stick together
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Apr 6th, 2020, 09:36 | #134 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
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Could this be the cause of oil loss through the rear crank oil seal? Shine where the shaft has made contact with carrier and compressed the felt too much perhaps.
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Apr 6th, 2020, 10:52 | #135 |
Master Member
Last Online: Jan 24th, 2022 17:08
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Difficult to tell George.
This felt didn't "run" too short and not compressed. This kind of "seal" isn't easy to mount right. I use a round piece, made of hard wood. ca. 1mm less in diameter than the crank at this point. Hammer and rubb in one half, cut of the felt at the edge. doing it at the other side again. Mount the felt carrier without the crank, grease the felt and with the round piece of wood inside turn a few revs. Even than: not ok every time, for bad luck. If every thing is ok this felt sealing is doing his job very well, nevertheless good luck, Kay |
Apr 6th, 2020, 11:27 | #136 |
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I would think that the felt should be proud of the metal by at least 2mm when compressed by the crank. It would be then finding its own shape and position. That would mean, I think, that it would be a further couple of mm higher when first fitted. The top and bottom sections should force themselves together at the ends to complete the seal.
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Apr 6th, 2020, 11:43 | #137 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
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I may try easing the carrier to expose more felt seal.What do you think? The crank is sitting on new main bearings.
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Apr 6th, 2020, 13:07 | #138 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
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'been reading up about hardened valve seat inserts and for some reason doing the inlets isn't recommended. Looking at these cleaned uo inlets are they too deep or still usable with new valves.Not a question of cost but want to do it right.
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Apr 6th, 2020, 14:15 | #139 |
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The reason that hardened valve seats are usually not installed on the intake side is because the intake is much cooler than the exhaust. Relatively speaking, very cold air and fuel is rushing in on the intake side; and after combustion, very hot corrosive gasses are leaving on the exhaust side.
Your valve seats look pretty good to me, but I can't tell. Look at the side edges of your valves. Are some thicker than others? Valves can also erode. Also insert your valves in the seats. Do they sit up proud or are they tending to sink down into the seats? With your valves installed, are all your valve tips in the same plane? Just some clues to look for and consider. |
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Apr 6th, 2020, 20:07 | #140 |
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As said, you only need to do the exhaust seats. There may not even be enough room to do the inlets due to the spacing. There should be a number in the book for valve stem side play in the guides. Play should be negligible. The guides need to be good to allow a proper seat cutter to make an accurate cut. Excess play will also make grinding in the valves with paste. Comes a time when all three, guides, valves, and seats all wear enough to make recovery difficult. Then it's bite the bullet time I'm afraid. Things can get expensive especially with carriage costs. Example -
https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...4,_B14_and_B16 |
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