2006 S60 Suspension rebuild

[rangerovering]

Hi Folks,

Anyone on here gone to town on their suspension and replaced everything? I am a regular user of Autodoc because the prices and ability to choose OEM brands is very handy, rebuilt a few cars on all new arms bushes dampers springs etc now and its always been worth it.

My newly purchased 60 drives well but definitely is needing some rejuvenation, seems to squirm a little bit from the back and be a bit wandery or vague at the front. I reckon it needs dampers as a minimum, Bilstein B4's were what I had in mind. Probably front lower arms as well, I'm not familiar with the back end set up though is it a mult link arangement?

Cheers!

[Pashabg]

Just did a significant suspension rebuild. Parts used were mostly ordered from Autodoc. The following was replaced: front springs, shocks all around, struts mounts (rubber and bearing), inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, drop links all around. Control arms were done two years ago. I am not quite happy with the result. This car has some issue with the suspension, which drives me crazy. Steering wheel/tires has the tendancy of changing direction slightly on its own. Also now, the steering doesn't return on its own when turning but rather keeps turning. It is on certain degree and mostly when turning left. My wheels are bigger than the stock one, and tires are on their way, so this my be the source of my issues. The other think I suspect is steering rack or driveshaft bolts, or the control arm, which from what I understand is a crap design anyway. I was actually on here to start a thread, a cry for help.
I have also put on the subframe bush inserts. If I were you, I would start with them.

[rangerovering]

Thanks interesting reading! Which brands did you use for the parts and what brand were your control arms?

Is this the american poly insert things that go into the existing subframe bushes?

Its amazing what issues worn tyres or even tyre choice can make to the feeling of a car...

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Pashabg

inner and outer tie rods.... now, the steering doesn't return on its own when turning but rather keeps turning

Not unusual with new track rods until they bed in.

[Pashabg]

Originally Posted by rangerovering

Thanks interesting reading! Which brands did you use for the parts and what brand were your control arms?

Is this the american poly insert things that go into the existing subframe bushes?

Its amazing what issues worn tyres or even tyre choice can make to the feeling of a car...

Shocks are TRW,
Springs Kamoka (very tricky choosing spring. I didn't trust part numbers. same number was returnig several spring options and some of which with 22 mm difference in length).
Strut mount Lemforder
Strut mount bearing Corteco (the original felt smoother when turning but decided to change it anyway)
Inner tie rod SKF and outer TRW. (Already had one outer TRW and the price difference for the inner was double, hence the difference in brands)
Front drop links Moog and rear SKF.
Ball joints FAG

Did everything myself, appart of ball joints, way too trouble to do them myself.
Control Arms were Lemforder. After installation thought, the bushing looks kind of twisted/bend down. Not sure whether it is normal or the mechanic didn't do it right.

Not sure about the origin of the inserts, but I believe we are talking about the same thing. The branding was something like "Swedish car parts" or something in theese lines. Blue inserts, they fill the gap in the subframe bush. Cost around 25 pounds. I think they made a significant difference about the wondering, so I would start with those if you haven't done them already. My car was impossible to keep in track, but now it is a different story on the motorway. Still pulling slightly left, but I thing it is normal, however changing lanes is not a scarry thing anymore. Front shocks were a bit worn (when I compared them with the new TRW, took them twice as long to retract when compressed, with some hesitation). Rears however were good, I think. No hesitation, similar time as the new ones and were actually harder to compress. The car is S60, 2.0T, 2006 facelift model with 123000 miles on the clock.

[oragex]

What do you mean by "the bushing looks kind of twisted/bend down" ? If you are talking about the front horizontal one, sometimes the genuine control arms have them installed with a slight rotation - not sure why because with the wheels on the ground, the control arm surface is rather horizontal. However other genuine arms have no rotation at all, the rod holes stay horizontal with the CA out of the car. I don't think it changes much, actually I prefer this bushing installed without rotation, because when it's rotated the bushing stays under stress at all times, even when the car is parked.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...right-30635230
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...5230oe#fitment
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...caktp2#fitment

[Pashabg]

Originally Posted by oragex

What do you mean by "the bushing looks kind of twisted/bend down" ? If you are talking about the front horizontal one, sometimes the genuine control arms have them installed with a slight rotation - not sure why because with the wheels on the ground, the control arm surface is rather horizontal. However other genuine arms have no rotation at all, the rod holes stay horizontal with the CA out of the car. I don't think it changes much, actually I prefer this bushing installed without rotation, because when it's rotated the bushing stays under stress at all times, even when the car is parked.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...right-30635230
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...5230oe#fitment
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...caktp2#fitment

Hopefully the picture will clarify what I mean. It is only 2 years (10k miles) old and already looks almost cracked. This could be quite normal, I don't know. It just doesn't look normal to me. To me it looks under pressure.

[rangerovering]

Originally Posted by Pashabg

Shocks are TRW,
Springs Kamoka (very tricky choosing spring. I didn't trust part numbers. same number was returnig several spring options and some of which with 22 mm difference in length).
Strut mount Lemforder
Strut mount bearing Corteco (the original felt smoother when turning but decided to change it anyway)
Inner tie rod SKF and outer TRW. (Already had one outer TRW and the price difference for the inner was double, hence the difference in brands)
Front drop links Moog and rear SKF.
Ball joints FAG

Did everything myself, appart of ball joints, way too trouble to do them myself.
Control Arms were Lemforder. After installation thought, the bushing looks kind of twisted/bend down. Not sure whether it is normal or the mechanic didn't do it right.

Not sure about the origin of the inserts, but I believe we are talking about the same thing. The branding was something like "Swedish car parts" or something in theese lines. Blue inserts, they fill the gap in the subframe bush. Cost around 25 pounds. I think they made a significant difference about the wondering, so I would start with those if you haven't done them already. My car was impossible to keep in track, but now it is a different story on the motorway. Still pulling slightly left, but I thing it is normal, however changing lanes is not a scarry thing anymore. Front shocks were a bit worn (when I compared them with the new TRW, took them twice as long to retract when compressed, with some hesitation). Rears however were good, I think. No hesitation, similar time as the new ones and were actually harder to compress. The car is S60, 2.0T, 2006 facelift model with 123000 miles on the clock.

Good info thanks! I think we are on the same track with the subframe inserts there seems to be a few options out there around £25. Driving the car this morning and getting more used to it I began to feel that doing the subframe inserts first may be the best idea as you suggest. Just for the point of asking is it a nightmare of a job to replace the original bushes?

What is involved with the ball joints that makes them difficult?

[Pashabg]

Originally Posted by rangerovering

Good info thanks! I think we are on the same track with the subframe inserts there seems to be a few options out there around £25. Driving the car this morning and getting more used to it I began to feel that doing the subframe inserts first may be the best idea as you suggest. Just for the point of asking is it a nightmare of a job to replace the original bushes?

What is involved with the ball joints that makes them difficult?

You are very welcome!

About replacing subframe bushes....I would say yes. Never done it, but managed to find few videos and it looked like hell to get them out. It involves lots of big tools, leverage and lots of time. There was a guy suggesting to drill them at exact place, which makes them crack and get them out easier, but I figured, if I crack them and I still can't get them out I will be in big trouble. Mine actually looked OK, so I thing the insterts will be beneficial even if the bushings are in great condition. I can post some photos late.

The ball joints, you don't have space and leverage on the ground. You need skills and special tools. I bought the ones I thought would do the job and actually started to damage the wheel hub. So gave up and left it to a professional.

[rangerovering]

Originally Posted by Pashabg

You are very welcome!

About replacing subframe bushes....I would say yes. Never done it, but managed to find few videos and it looked like hell to get them out. It involves lots of big tools, leverage and lots of time. There was a guy suggesting to drill them at exact place, which makes them crack and get them out easier, but I figured, if I crack them and I still can't get them out I will be in big trouble. Mine actually looked OK, so I thing the insterts will be beneficial even if the bushings are in great condition. I can post some photos late.

The ball joints, you don't have space and leverage on the ground. You need skills and special tools. I bought the ones I thought would do the job and actually started to damage the wheel hub. So gave up and left it to a professional.

I saw a video of the ball joints needing hammered out, not the best design I suppose for replacement ease!

Looks like the passenger side strut mount has failed in some sort of fashion, steering has got lumpy and squeaky at times now too. The more I have driven it the more I think needs replaced!

Anyone got thoughts on Sachs springs and Bilstein shocks on these cars? I’ve fitted a lot of Bilstein a and really like them, springs I don’t know as much about which are gold brands and which aren’t. Or is Volvo genuine the best way?

Was considering Meyle strut mounts and bearings also?