V50 Rolling light grinding noise - any idea's?

[Welton]

I've just had both front bearings replaced, only one was really worn though, the noise was the typical "woo woo woo" sound which changed with steering input. There was zero play in the hubs but one of the bearings was very bad, I'd say it took 6 months to wear to the point of needing attention, unlike our Citroen which took 4 weeks to become unbearable.

I do have another slight issue with my aftermarket brake pads, these make a sort of metallic "ching ching ching" sound as the brake disc rotates, easiest way to eliminate the cause is to lightly squeeze the brakes and see if it goes away, if so it's the brakes making the noise whilst the caliper piston is 'relaxed' as it were.

[FunkyMelon]

Originally Posted by Welton

I do have another slight issue with my aftermarket brake pads, these make a sort of metallic "ching ching ching" sound as the brake disc rotates, easiest way to eliminate the cause is to lightly squeeze the brakes and see if it goes away, if so it's the brakes making the noise whilst the caliper piston is 'relaxed' as it were.

No Volvo has ever played well with aftermarket brake pads.

Get them off and put Volvo pads on and all your problems will be solved.

I'm not sure why people do it? Volvo one's aren't that expensive and have been proven to be the best 'standard' brake parts without going crazy with big brake upgrades.

[Montana]

Originally Posted by FunkyMelon

No Volvo has ever played well with aftermarket brake pads.

Get them off and put Volvo pads on and all your problems will be solved.

I'm not sure why people do it? Volvo one's aren't that expensive and have been proven to be the best 'standard' brake parts without going crazy with big brake upgrades.

I have mintex pads on mine, no issues. I opt to pay for reputable branded pattern parts rather than the volvo OEM (where possible)

Back on topic

I received a good tip re wheel bearings in another thread for identifying which side is at fault (i had no movement in either side) - but jacking both sides up (same time - use axle stands) i spun the wheel and grabbed the spring, it was immediately obvious which side was a fault, it had a rough feel and i could feel this through the spring. I have since replaced this side and my noise is gone, its an effective method.

[FunkyMelon]

Originally Posted by Montana

I have mintex pads on mine, no issues. I opt to pay for reputable branded pattern parts rather than the volvo OEM (where possible)

I'd put money on then wearing down faster and they'll start squealing under breaking when they get past the half way mark.

[Montana]

Originally Posted by FunkyMelon

I'd put money on then wearing down faster and they'll start squealing under breaking when they get past the half way mark.

Got plenty of life left yet, so some time to go.

You realise volvo dont manufacture the pads - you just pay a premium for the volvo branded stuff like this, IMO pointless unless comparable in price (which they never are)

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by FunkyMelon

No Volvo has ever played well with aftermarket brake pads.

Get them off and put Volvo pads on and all your problems will be solved.

I'm not sure why people do it? Volvo one's aren't that expensive and have been proven to be the best 'standard' brake parts without going crazy with big brake upgrades.

Nah, c'mon, its like saying that you should only fit tyres in Volvo dealership and onloy the same brand&model car came from factory with. OEM parts are made by various manufacturers and you can get the exact same parts but not in Volvo box for half a price. Most brake parts for T5 are made by ATE so its really easy to source the parts directly from manufacturer. Its also no problem to mix&match them without going "racing carbon fairy dust", just like I did - Brembo plain discs + ATE ceramic pads. Works like a charm and I paid less for WHOLE set than I would pay for brake pads set with Volvo emblem.

[Lion Heart]

Originally Posted by Montana

I received a good tip re wheel bearings in another thread for identifying which side is at fault (i had no movement in either side) - but jacking both sides up (same time - use axle stands) i spun the wheel and grabbed the spring, it was immediately obvious which side was a fault, it had a rough feel and i could feel this through the spring. I have since replaced this side and my noise is gone, its an effective method.

Thanks for that - that's actually very interesting! So basically you're feeling for roughness in the rotation iof the bearing by using a spring to feel the vibration passing thorugh.

If one seems rough and the other smooth, then you've fond the likely candidate.

I'm fairly sure that mine also will not show any physical movement when wobbling the wheel, so this could be ideal.

Sounds like a great tip, thanks!

[Montana]

Originally Posted by Lion Heart

Thanks for that - that's actually very interesting! So basically you're feeling for roughness in the rotation iof the bearing by using a spring to feel the vibration passing thorugh.

If one seems rough and the other smooth, then you've fond the likely candidate.

I'm fairly sure that mine also will not show any physical movement when wobbling the wheel, so this could be ideal.

Sounds like a great tip, thanks!

Exactly that