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Speakers and Ohms: oh my!

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Old May 12th, 2019, 13:39   #11
AndyV7o
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do the originals not state the impedence on them??
If your head unit is designed for 8ohm speakers, and you've fitted 4ohm, the amp will throw a big wobbler.
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Old May 12th, 2019, 13:44   #12
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Not unless they are wired in series.
2 ohm speakers are 2ohm. Wire 2 2ohm speakers in parralel and you get 1ohm, wire in series you get 4 ohm, this is the resistance that the amp encounters the other end of the cable.
Your components, are they a matched pair with crossover? If they are supplied as a set rated at 4ohm then thats the end resistance. If you bought 4ohm mids and 4ohm tweeters, and wired together, the amp is seeing either 2 or 8 ohm.
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Old May 12th, 2019, 13:49   #13
SwissXC90
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I stand corrected: it appears the speakers are 8 ohm according to the Volvo page above.
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Old Jun 20th, 2019, 22:53   #14
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I've been contemplating replacing the standard speakers in my 2014 V70 D4 SE Lux with the High Performance System but have found it very difficult to find out the spec of those speakers so that whatever I buy is a good or better match.

The radio table linked to in this thread is quite informative and possibly a good indicator as to what I might find in my car doors. Also, for the 2014MY and 2015MY that level of detail appears unavailable, so I might have to rely upon data for an earlier MY. Many thanks to SwissXC90 for that link.

Putting that to one side, the reviews for those JBLs aren't consistently great, and the fact that they don't have a proper crossover network won't help the sound at all.

As written in one review, there's a capacitor to stop bass information from reaching the tweeter, but there's nothing to stop treble information from reaching the woofer, which might make the woofer sound quite squawky.

You might have been better off just buying straight OEM replacements for that kind of money or buying something more expensive with a better crossover network so that the woofer only gets bass and mid-range information, and the tweeter only gets treble information. That would make for a much better sound straight out of the box.

I would suggest 8 Ohms, a sensitivity greater than 86dB/W/m (90dB/W/m would be nice!!), and a power handling of at least 75W. The higher sensitivity will mean that they go louder for each Watt, and a decent power handling figure means that you're less likely to blow them. However, if you run them with bass and treble turned up to the max then you can probably expect to blow them.

On the subject of speakers, has anyone else done a simple speaker upgrade in their P3 V70 or XC70 without getting into digital sound processing or replacement amps etc.? If so, what speakers were purchased and what were the results?
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Old Mar 23rd, 2023, 23:00   #15
Edyholm
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So i have the same thing with my s60 speakers in front door sound like s...
Started by tearing the front doors and found 4ohm speakers and no tweeters.
Next tested the rear door speakers and they are 4 ohm
Rear shelf units 8 ohm.

Looked at schematic and the front output speakers and tweeters are wired in parallel same thing with rear output speakers.

So it comes that each output of the amp should be 2ohm

And then i had eureka moment someone probably has swapped the door cards from car with lower spec audio system but did not mount the tweeters from the old ones so my front seekers are loading the amp more. 4 ohms on each of the channels

And the spec that they put in the radio table fit 2 ohm in series 8ohm impedance on the amp.

It made me think for a while though.
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Old Mar 24th, 2023, 11:32   #16
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It's even more complex than that when it comes to loudspeakers.
If you have two 8 ohm speakers and connect them in parallel, then you have a pair with 4 ohm impedance. Easy enough.

But if you have one bass speaker, one mid-range and one high-frequency-range speaker, with appropriate filters for each frequency range, and all of them are 8 ohm impedance and you connect them in parallel, then you still have an 8 ohm impedance from the speaker combination.

This is because if the filters don't overlap, then each frequency range will only see the corresponding 8 ohm speaker. The other two will not consume any current from that frequency band.

Now real filters aren't that sharp so you get some overlap, but you get the idea, I hope. So your main and tweeter combination will not reduce the combined impedance to half when connected in parallel, as they don't respond to the same frequencies.
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