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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Aug 8th, 2018, 21:20 | #1 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 08:12
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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More electrical problems
Teething troubles no doubt after fire. Car running well, all electrics working but amp light staying on, no charge it would seem.Wiring and connections double checked. D+ on relay stays open. Should close when charging. Could have been damaged by heat but looks fine. Can i check dynamo output before relay with meter? Pos of meter to D+ and neg to earth? Battery registering about 6.5V with and without engine running. No Change.
BTW what would I do without my trusty Olympus camera. A picture is worth one thousand words!
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Aug 8th, 2018 at 21:27. |
Aug 9th, 2018, 10:39 | #2 |
arcturus
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Double checked wiring, changed regulator. No change, light stays on. Close points manually,light goes off. 6 volts at D+on charge relay. Help!
sorted! the schematic shows DF & D+ connections on the left and right of the dynamo when in reality it's the other way round. I was blindly following the schematic
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Aug 9th, 2018 at 11:41. |
Aug 9th, 2018, 12:17 | #3 |
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arcturus;
Reference first graphic here: https://www.sw-em.com/Bosch%20Genera...n%20Detail.htm (specifically for 12V, but much of it applicable to your 6V system. I have also written Mr. Scholz and asked him if he has info on the differences between the 12V VReg shown with two coils and 6V VReg with three coils as you have). I would expect the AMP Indicator to go OFF when closing the contact associated with D+ since this essentially shorts across the Lamp...results of a test I'd rather see is if you what I'd rather see is when closing the contact associated with DF terminal with raised RPMs (this connects the DF terminal to chassis to manually enable Field current and hopefully result in Gen output, and that should extinguish AMP Ind!) ...that would check if Gen is capable of putting out...monitor sys voltage to see if there is a rise indicating Gen is putting out. See also at link, the sections: "Gen turning at low speed" and "Gen turning at elevated speed"...try to understand these operating modes and their relation and interaction with the VReg. Good Hunting! Edit; Happy that you got it sorted! Last edited by Ron Kwas; Aug 9th, 2018 at 12:26. |
Aug 29th, 2018, 09:19 | #4 |
arcturus
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Back on topic again. I sent my 123 dizy for investigation and bench tests found no fault but they changed the PCB any way. I should get it back any day now but before I re fit it I would like to know what part the voltage regulator plays as, "spiking" was claimed to have been the cause of the original fault, severe miss firing. My question is , should the problem arise again what fault in the relay would cause this "spiking"problem? I was also advised to disconnect the + from the generator temporarily to see if this cured the problem which i suspect would indicate a faulty relay. 6.08 volt tick over,rising to 6.80 on revs.
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Aug 29th, 2018 at 10:21. |
Aug 29th, 2018, 11:02 | #5 |
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Arcturus;
"Spiking" is just a general term for electrical noise which might/is likely to be, caused by the contacts of VReg opening or closing (Gen Filed winding has high inductance, so making or braking current through it will cause big spikes on the entire vehicle elec bus!), or the brush-noise on Gen output...if Ign dropouts occur concurrent with VReg contact action, or due to brush-noise, then Ign electronics may be underfiltered, too sensitive, and indeed have trouble functioning reliably...if symptoms persist, I suggest installing some filter caps on Gen Field and D+ output terminals...let's see what happens when you get Ign unit back... Cheers |
Aug 29th, 2018, 11:42 | #6 |
arcturus
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Just got this back in reply to my request for more info'.
The voltage regulator switches on and off when the battery is low 12,6 V or high 14,8V. The contacts produce a spike and our electronics starts to protect the PCB, so the electronics stops working for a brief moment. We have made that point a little more forgiving. Best regards, Ron Tettero Just how often does the regulator switch on and off when on the road. Is it continuous,every 20 of 30 seconds for example or is it in a steady state with only occasional switching ?
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Aug 29th, 2018 at 11:46. |
Aug 29th, 2018, 12:14 | #7 |
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If you are running a generator (rather than an alternator) you might need to polarize the generator. Not sure of the best way to do it on a PV, but in the MG world it is very simple.
see 2:40 here https://youtu.be/wH_yIeKsBSM https://youtu.be/PPUfQtVEJGg (edit) OOPS! see you have it sorted. |
Aug 29th, 2018, 13:15 | #8 | |
arcturus
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Quote:
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Aug 29th, 2018, 13:54 | #9 |
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Arcturus;
VReg switches continuously and the actual rate and duty cycle is a function of what loads are currently powered on the elec bus, Chg Sys output (which is again a function of RPMs) and state of Battery...so it's easy to see that its complicated, variable and quite unpredictable...reliable solution is to install electronic filtering components to minimize whenever it occurs. Elec Ign Module should have some, but it may not be enough for 6V operation where current are higher, so sparks have more energy to quench... Cheers |
Aug 29th, 2018, 13:56 | #10 |
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"suppressor?"...yes as a general term, but specifically it should be capacitor(s)...see link.
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