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A puzzle for the EGR valve expert/masochists out there...

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Old May 28th, 2015, 10:09   #1
SkintKnuckles
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Default A puzzle for the EGR valve expert/masochists out there...

Hi peeps,

I’d greatly appreciate some expert guidance/feedback on an EGR related issue I’ve been experiencing and already tried resolving. There are quite a few relevant threads here on this forum on this issue but, for a lot of them, the url links/images/pdf downloads associated with threads are no longer accessible/live (maybe a server was changed and these didn’t survive the update?). Thus, I’ve a strong need for feedback as opposed to links to older threads, as many of these just aren’t working.

I have moved back to the UK after years working abroad, so I’m between jobs at the moment, and simply cannot afford to have this work done by a Volvo garage. Notwithstanding the labour and parts costs, I live far from the nearest dealers/specialists. Thus, it’s either fix this myself or put the car off the road until I find a new job. I have quite a few ideas about how to proceed, but I’d really like to have guidance before proceeding further, as this could get expensive........ and I can’t afford to get it wrong.

Ok, I have a 2006 Volvo V70 D5 SE Sport (185 bhp, euro IV model). Recently, the car went into limp-home mode : i.e. virtually no power, felt like turbo was ‘gone’ and the dreaded ‘Engine System Service Required’ warning. This fault was, and still is, intermittent. Typically, the car works spot on from cold and thereafter it goes into limp mode. I’d experienced exactly these symptoms a few years ago – and needed to replace the throttle housing (Volvo #31216665) at the EGR valve to get the car working. Thus, I checked that all was fine there. It was spot on, very clean inside and also within the tract of the EGR housing that was accessible to me (without taking the EGR off the car). Similarly, the throttle housing butterfly was working smoothly and moved easily with light finger pressure.

I had no choice but to take the car to a Volvo specialist to do a diagnostic.

The codes that were shown were:
BCM-0108 (coms issue between BCM and SAS);
4490 (EGR position sensor), 44B0 (EGR position sensor faulty signal), 6720 (EGR control – flow high)
1870 (swirl actuator), 1880 (swirl control armed), 1890 (swirl control)

I knew about the swirl arm issue and had driven for years with these broken (and had no issues to date). Anyway, I replaced/fix the swirl arm rod/connector (repair kit #31293291 and rod #08692676) and also (on the advice of the Volvo specialist) the EGR position sensor (#3126573). These repairs had zero effect on the problem at hand, which was disappointing, and I’m still left with the car running mainly in limp mode. That said, when the car is running at full power, it’s definitely the smoothest it’s been for years, so these repairs have helped the car, if not the main problem.

FYI, I have checked the DTC codes before and after fitting these parts (using a most excellent BSR PPC3 system). Now the singular code I have showing is 44B0 (i.e. EGR position sensor faulty signal). Anyway, since I’ve just replaced the EGR position sensor, and I’m still getting a faulty signal from the sensor, I think that the main issue lies with whatever parts this component docks into inside the EGR valve housing i.e. something inside is stuck, hence the new sensor/actuator cannot move what its supposed to, hence the error code and limp mode – arghh!

I’ve found it very difficult to get information on the parts inside the EGR assembly, their functions and associated repairs. Similarly, the EGR valve position sensor gets called quite different things by different dealer/aftermarket suppliers. Some have this part as a stepper motor/valve actuator, others call it an EGR valve position sensor. This makes me think that its multifunctional, and only one part of its function is compromised, yielding the 44B0 fault.

Ok, so here are the questions I have:
1) Do you guys agree with my diagnosis? If so, can I take the EGR assembly apart to get at the parts that the EGR position sensor docks with? If so, images/pdfs/advice would be appreciated.

2) Can the EGR assembly be worked on piecemeal, or is it just a replacement as a whole (i.e. is the assembly serviceable or not). Again, if people have a feel for the prices for relevant individual components vs the entire assembly, it’d help me get a feel for the fiscal damage.

3) Since the car runs beautifully when its in normal mode, and this is intermittent with limp mode, it feels like this is an electrical/sensor problem rather than a mechanical one (unless its a sticky valve or similar)? However, I’ve replaced the EGR position sensor, so it seems unlikely its at fault. What do you guys think?

4) If the problem is inside the EGR valve, yet I get an EGR sensor faulty signal code (44B0), is it possible that the outstanding EGR issue may have broken the brand new position sensor? Since I have no ideas of the mechanical components inside the sensor, its difficult to know if it can ‘slip’ or not if it meets too much resistance.

5) Although I’ve replaced the swirl arm rod and linkage to swirl arm, and associated error codes have been cleared (and not re-appeared), I’m sure that I’ve read somewhere that Volvo still need to clear the adaptations this assembly makes. Certainly, I cant seem to do this with the BSR PPC3. Any ideas if this could be causing me the limp mode power problem, although not the 44B0 code?

Ok, sorry about the long thread. I’d hoped to give the right history here in the hope that this thread can, if successful in finding a solution, also help others who face similar issues. For my part, this whole debacle is doing my head in!

Thus, any advice or suggestions are most welcome!! Thanks

Cheers
Neil
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Old May 28th, 2015, 13:52   #2
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I cleaned out the induction system of my d5 eu4 when changing the clutch, so the egr cooler and valve had to come off anyway... it was very 'gunked up' as was most of the pipework (a combination of air leaks and oil contamination, solved the air leaks but still have to find the source of the oil!).

The cooler wasn't actually too bad, but the valve was really caked and I thought it might have jammed as there was no evidence of the actuator shaft moving despite no related fault codes, I cleaned it off with carb cleaner and a 'carbon clean' spray designed for kitchen pots and pans (wow, does that work well!), along with careful scraping with a screwdriver returned the valve to a clean condition that looked functional instead of being a lumpy black mess. I didn't disassemble the solenoid from the valve body, nor did I test its operation on the bench, but I haven't had any egr codes thrown up.

From memory the egr valve could be removed without the cooler after the 'throttle' body is removed, so it might be worth trying a removal and clean, you should be able to test the solenoid more easily as well. I got away with reusing the gaskets too which saves a few quid!

If no one beats me to it I'll post the Vida parts diagram up when I get in this evening which might help too.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 15:07   #3
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Hi Symes,

thanks for the feedback. My mechanic experience is in high performance motorcycle enginges, so the whole EGR valve/diesel angle is not playing to my strengths or experience. Thus, any diagrams or images you can dig out would really help me get a sense of what lies ahead and the way to approach a clean up.

The following may sound stupid, so apologies in advance! Am I right in thinking that inside the main housing of the EGR assembly (i.e. the piece of metal to which the throttle housing and EGR valve sensor attach) there is another valve/flap? By this I mean an additional valve/flap that is distinct from the butterfly inside the throtttle housing. I've been assuming that this is the case, but not had any diagram against which to check this, or prior experience of other cars with an EGR valve? I guess that the EGR valve position sensor must measure the position of some valve somewhere, but there is nothing that I can see by eye when the throttle housing is removed.

If there is such a valve, my guess is that its this, or the mechanism that moves it, that is my problem. Maybe I get lucky and its just gunked up and a clean will fix this!

cheers
Neil
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Old May 28th, 2015, 16:57   #4
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There is a how to with pictures on the forum to strip and clean the Egr Etm
It's not a difficult job
Mike
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Old May 28th, 2015, 18:11   #5
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Hi Mike,

thanks for the heads up on this. I've looked and looked on this site for such a guide. However, the few relevant threads with photo walkthroughs I could find no longer had live or downloadable attachments etc. If you do happen to know of a live url for how to do this job, I'd be very grateful. If not, no worries as its a shot in the dark!

cheers
Neil

After posting this reply, I found an example of a url that should contain what I need but the link is broken (or my browser is...):
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=121328
I then noticed that the poster was you - can you help with the images that went with your post on the above thread?

Last edited by SkintKnuckles; May 28th, 2015 at 18:23.
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Old May 28th, 2015, 18:29   #6
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That's the 163 and not the 185 I will try and find the link for you later on
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Old May 28th, 2015, 18:37   #7
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Hi Mike,

ok, many thanks. I'm fairly competent at mechanical work and have self serviced virtually every car/motorbike I've owned. However, I have zero idea whats inside the EGR assembly, what small parts/gaskets etc may be needed. This forum is truly excellent, but I haven't found a good guide for the EGR/ETM angle, which is surprising as it seems like the Achilles heel of the D5 block.

If you can find a link, it would be a lifesaver. If you cannot find it, it'd even be helpful to know if this is a job that I can have a bash at without needing gaskets etc, and roughly how long it takes (if all goes well.....)

cheers (and thanks)
Neil
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Old May 28th, 2015, 20:22   #8
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Hi Neil
the write up that i can find has no pictures as per the other post.
from memory it goes like this.
let the ecu power down for ten mins after switching off, its up to you if you want to disconnect the battery.
take of both multi plugs to the Ecu on top of the air filter box, completly take out the whole air box remember that the Maf is also attatched this will give you more room.looking at the front of the Egr and Egr Etm undo the clip for the charge air pipe and move the pipe down and to the right of the ETM.there are 4 bolts i think its 13mm socket two at the top and two at the bottom undo the multi plug take of the Etm there is also a thin alloy gasket you can buy new or re use i did not by new. take of the Etm and you will see if the Butterfly has free movement and needs a clean , i cleaned mine with carb cleaner and a small toothbrush. The electric end that holds the cogs and the other bits is covered by the black cover this is held on but 6 clips i think you can take those off and inspect the cogs, as you will see these are plastic and will brake if the butterfly is being forced it can strip the cogs.when you have done that check the Egr pipe on the engine that will be caked up in gunge wear gloves.
once all cleaned refit the Etm also remember to tighten the jubilee clip for the charge air pipe i forgot and it went into limp mode, refit the complete air box ,Maf and pipe work then the connectors for the Ecu .when you start it should recalibrate itself.
hope that helps
a tip for the air box is held in place by 3/4 conectors get a long extension bar with a socket that will squeeze the conectors together and lift at the same time took me about 2 hours
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Old May 28th, 2015, 20:51   #9
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Hi Mike,

I really appreciate this really helpful and detailed guidance. This is exactly what I needed to know!

It does sound do-able (with a fair wind blowing and a bit of luck), so I'll give cleaning it all up a bash and see if that helps with the fault. It surely can't do any harm.... Famous last words, maybe!

Ok buddy - really appreciate this. I'll post back here with the outcome.

cheers
Neil
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Old May 29th, 2015, 19:50   #10
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Hi all,

ok - did the extraction and clean up of the EGR housing, throttle housing and EGR cooler today.

All went well until I I had difficulty finding the 'hidden' bolts holding on the EGR cooler. Once you know where they are, its a piece of cake, but in the absence of this information, there was much teeth gnashing. Then, mysteriously I must have sheared a 4-way fuel return union - posibly by leaning on it. No idea!! This tiny plastic moulding must cost pennies to produce but Mr Volvo wants £105 to replace it. Not what I had in mind given my current fiscal situation - sigh!

Anyway, cooler was pretty clean inside. EGR valve and exhaust manifold outlet were full of crud, which was unpleasant to clean, but not difficult. Certainly I could move the EGR valve in by hand pressure, although the spring opposing this movement was as tight as a gnats chuff!

Reassembling was an absolute bitch - again partially due to my working some of this out in real time. The worst part was getting the jubilee clip/collar that holds together the flanged parts of the EGR cooler exit and the corrugated metal tubing (going to the turbo, I guess). Somewhat mysteriously again, one half of the compression collar was missing upon extraction of the cooler. It may have pinged out during disassembly or simply wasn't there. Anyway, re-fitting this was an absolute whore of a job due to limited access. Not a job I'd ever like to repeat due to a few key bolts just being so difficult to get to.

Whilst I couldn't start the car - due to the sheared fuel union running out fuel - I could do a few diagnostics with my BSR PPC. Despite taking the battery off during the jobs, and then switching the ignition on and off a few times and then clearing and reading the DTC codes, it does appear that the 44B0 code has now gone. If so, then the clean up seems to have worked!!

I will rest easier when the car has a test drive as I'm a bit paranoid that the fault will return when the engine is running. That said, before I did the clean up etc, the 44B0 code could be cleared and it immediately returned when the ignition was at position 2 (ie. the engine wasn't running), so maybe I've sorted this out. I do hope so, as it ain't a fun job due to the very restricted access.

My advice to anyone trying this is during disassembly to loosen the bolts from the front of the engine first, then work backwards, finishing with the EGR cooler retaining collar (this can be teased off the flange on the EGR ccooler with screwdriver). Conversely, when assembling, get the EGR cooler connected to the turbo pipe first, then partially tighten the 'hidden' screws around the middle of the EGR cooler and then do the bolts at the front. I found out the hard way that if you do the front ones first, the rest were a bugger to line up and tighten. However, maybe I reinvented the wheel a few times and more savvy people can do this quicker and easier?

Cheers
Neil
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