Deathtrap

R-P · May 28th, 2018, 15:20

Right now I am so furious, I just want to drive it into a lake and forget about the darn thing.

There's something wrong, but it affects the locks in such a way that the doors cannot be opened with the levers. So if we were to be in it while I drive it into a lake (...), we would die a horrible death because the doors will simply not open. (Remote control doesn't work, central locking doesn't work when manually opening the driver-door, which is the only door we can open, thanks to the key).

How can this be that some malfunctioning piece of electronics can prevent a mechanical opening of the door with the doorlever? In a supposedly safe car???

AAARRRGGGGHHHHHH

Oh, and the dash does not function (apart from a few lights), the accelleration is worse than ever, the indicators don't work and the automatic rearview mirror is in night-mode. All (different) fuses that are related to these malfunctions seem OK.

Edit: this is scary... when googling it I get a post by myself from 2013... It's 30 degrees C again, like last time...

This also claims it is communication issues, but no solution. I wouldn't call disconnecting the battery a 'solution'.

outnumbered · May 28th, 2018, 16:02

R P I think it's time to call it a day.
You have been patient long enough now and all the work you have done you should hold your head up high.
Move on
Good luck
Mike

Rossi-fan · May 28th, 2018, 19:10

I haven't followed your on going problems, so if its been brought up previously, i apologize, but could some of your problems not point to a faulty DIM?

R-P · May 28th, 2018, 21:32

It was fixed (once again) by unhooking the battery. This time at the jump-point under the hood. (As the boot wouldn't open.)
I have opened up the DIM before, resoldering all suspect solderjoints, only to find it was indeed just a fuse... (not linked to the first or second failure of the DIM in conjunction with the indicators not working and the central locking not functioning, but a third occasion when the DIM just didn't light up but I had no other errors)
Hence my fuel gauge having an offset

You have to ripp off all needles of the dials beforte you can open it and putting it back in the exact same position is hard.

From everything I read, it is, as Outnumbered answered the first time, a CANBUS issue.
If it does happen again, I will measure some voltages on the datalines to see if it is some grounding issue, but I doubt it as it is solved by simply taking the voltage of off the cars electronics.
There is quite some sparking when I reattached the battery. So I guess all computers draw a significant amount when first seeing voltage after being cut off.

Once again, I think it is VERY POOR designing of Volvo that ANYTHING can cause the mechanical opening of the doors to fail. I simply cannot understand the design-choice made here.

luggsey · May 28th, 2018, 21:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by R-P

It was fixed (once again) by unhooking the battery. This time at the jump-point under the hood. (As the boot wouldn't open.)
I have opened up the DIM before, resoldering all suspect solderjoints, only to find it was indeed just a fuse... (not linked to the first or second failure of the DIM in conjunction with the indicators not working and the central locking not functioning, but a third occasion when the DIM just didn't light up but I had no other errors)
Hence my fuel gauge having an offset

You have to ripp off all needles of the dials beforte you can open it and putting it back in the exact same position is hard.

From everything I read, it is, as Outnumbered answered the first time, a CANBUS issue.
If it does happen again, I will measure some voltages on the datalines to see if it is some grounding issue, but I doubt it as it is solved by simply taking the voltage of off the cars electronics.
There is quite some sparking when I reattached the battery. So I guess all computers draw a significant amount when first seeing voltage after being cut off.

Once again, I think it is VERY POOR designing of Volvo that ANYTHING can cause the mechanical opening of the doors to fail. I simply cannot understand the design-choice made here.

Is your car ex plod?
Maybe the door security thing is some sort of plod software...?

reggit · May 28th, 2018, 22:03

Sounds like the deadlocks not releasing. Opening the drivers door with the key should still operate the central locking. I'd be investigating that fault first. I am assuming that neither the interior or exterior door handles will open the other doors?

R-P · May 31st, 2018, 23:35

I fixed my issues. Hopefully.

Info here about what is wrong: from 2005 onwards, the CPU from the CEM (Central Electronics Module), has a heatsink. But up to 2004 they don't. Which make sense since the error both times occured at 30C outside temps and my AC is broken, so in the car it will be 30C too. Some people also have had the error occur when it was freezing outside (the foot-warm-air output is close to this computer).

Will post some pics lateron.

After putting everything together, I had a message in the infoscreen saying "GUARD VOLLEDIG" (translates to "guard complete"). Googling this it shows it has to do with the alarm and you can shut off certain parts of it. You can set it to GUARD BEPERKT (something like "partial"), for when you e.g. leave your dog in the car. It will then turn OFF the internal sensors AND it will also NOT disable the possibility to open the doors from the inside.

So it is a deliberate function to disable the possibility to open your doors from the INSIDE.

I don't understand. Is it designed for a burgler after smashing in your window so he cannot get out by opening the door? Or to prevent a bad-guy who sneaked in and had himself be locked inside the car from getting out?

ASt85 · Jun 1st, 2018, 09:12

I don't suppose there's some combination of "child lock" acting on all the doors due to a canbus fault is there?

If the dead locks are activated the internal pulling of a handle will not operate the door lock - similarly the child lock setting should only disable the rear doors unless the child lock function has been altered to act on all doors - in many vehicles the locking of a door with a key disables ALL the internal handles via the central locking canbus operating the dead locks after the delay period even if remote locking is disabled. In many police vehicles the deadlock delay will have been set to a minimum and probably gets overlooked when they are sold off.

R-P · Jun 2nd, 2018, 23:42

I filed the fan down to snugly fit the housing. Then I had to file the CEM-housing because applying some force led to the fins of the fan sometimes touching the CEM-housing ever so slightly causing noise. The fan is operated through a 100ohm resistor (slower RPM but/and lower noise) via the cigarettelighter (on with contact).

Part of the CEM slides out and then you can open it up. You can see the tin casing shielding the processor from interference but also making sure it has little to no airflow around it. I fitted a heatsink which comes with heatconducting double sides tape, hammered out the metal lid to accomodate the heatsink and the lid that covers the PCB now presses down so the heatsink is pushed onto the processor with a little force. So now I probably end up with problems due to the PCB being under stress

The fan sits over the tin box, so it sucks air past it. I think either solution might have been enough, but applying both should double my chances of success.

Father Ted · Jun 3rd, 2018, 10:54

Interesting to see you added a fan. I'm having DIM problems (only minor) at the moment. I've heard that these are heat related and I'm planning on fitting a fan when I've had the DIM repaired.
Might do CPU as well.

It is hard to believe that there is no heat sink on parts designed to go into a very hot environment.

May 28th, 2018, 15:20	#1
R-P Master Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Rozenburg NL	Deathtrap Right now I am so furious, I just want to drive it into a lake and forget about the darn thing. There's something wrong, but it affects the locks in such a way that the doors cannot be opened with the levers. So if we were to be in it while I drive it into a lake (...), we would die a horrible death because the doors will simply not open. (Remote control doesn't work, central locking doesn't work when manually opening the driver-door, which is the only door we can open, thanks to the key). How can this be that some malfunctioning piece of electronics can prevent a mechanical opening of the door with the doorlever? In a supposedly safe car??? AAARRRGGGGHHHHHH Oh, and the dash does not function (apart from a few lights), the accelleration is worse than ever, the indicators don't work and the automatic rearview mirror is in night-mode. All (different) fuses that are related to these malfunctions seem OK. Edit: this is scary... when googling it I get a post by myself from 2013... It's 30 degrees C again, like last time... This also claims it is communication issues, but no solution. I wouldn't call disconnecting the battery a 'solution'. __________________ Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. Last edited by R-P; May 28th, 2018 at 15:42.

May 28th, 2018, 16:02	#2
outnumbered Lunatic from Wakefield Last Online: Apr 16th, 2023 06:33 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: wakefield	R P I think it's time to call it a day. You have been patient long enough now and all the work you have done you should hold your head up high. Move on Good luck Mike __________________ 2012 volvo xc90 Executive Buccaneer Bermuda 2021

May 28th, 2018, 19:10	#3
Rossi-fan Premier Member Last Online: Feb 12th, 2023 10:07 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Durham	I haven't followed your on going problems, so if its been brought up previously, i apologize, but could some of your problems not point to a faulty DIM? __________________

May 28th, 2018, 21:32	#4
R-P Master Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Rozenburg NL	It was fixed (once again) by unhooking the battery. This time at the jump-point under the hood. (As the boot wouldn't open.) I have opened up the DIM before, resoldering all suspect solderjoints, only to find it was indeed just a fuse... (not linked to the first or second failure of the DIM in conjunction with the indicators not working and the central locking not functioning, but a third occasion when the DIM just didn't light up but I had no other errors) Hence my fuel gauge having an offset You have to ripp off all needles of the dials beforte you can open it and putting it back in the exact same position is hard. From everything I read, it is, as Outnumbered answered the first time, a CANBUS issue. If it does happen again, I will measure some voltages on the datalines to see if it is some grounding issue, but I doubt it as it is solved by simply taking the voltage of off the cars electronics. There is quite some sparking when I reattached the battery. So I guess all computers draw a significant amount when first seeing voltage after being cut off. Once again, I think it is VERY POOR designing of Volvo that ANYTHING can cause the mechanical opening of the doors to fail. I simply cannot understand the design-choice made here. __________________ Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it.

May 28th, 2018, 22:03	#6
reggit Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 16:49 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Preston	Sounds like the deadlocks not releasing. Opening the drivers door with the key should still operate the central locking. I'd be investigating that fault first. I am assuming that neither the interior or exterior door handles will open the other doors? __________________ 2009 Volvo V70 D5 (Polestar 225bhp) r-design 180,000 miles

May 31st, 2018, 23:35	#7
R-P Master Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Rozenburg NL	I fixed my issues. Hopefully. Info here about what is wrong: from 2005 onwards, the CPU from the CEM (Central Electronics Module), has a heatsink. But up to 2004 they don't. Which make sense since the error both times occured at 30C outside temps and my AC is broken, so in the car it will be 30C too. Some people also have had the error occur when it was freezing outside (the foot-warm-air output is close to this computer). Will post some pics lateron. After putting everything together, I had a message in the infoscreen saying "GUARD VOLLEDIG" (translates to "guard complete"). Googling this it shows it has to do with the alarm and you can shut off certain parts of it. You can set it to GUARD BEPERKT (something like "partial"), for when you e.g. leave your dog in the car. It will then turn OFF the internal sensors AND it will also NOT disable the possibility to open the doors from the inside. So it is a deliberate function to disable the possibility to open your doors from the INSIDE. I don't understand. Is it designed for a burgler after smashing in your window so he cannot get out by opening the door? Or to prevent a bad-guy who sneaked in and had himself be locked inside the car from getting out? __________________ Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. Last edited by R-P; May 31st, 2018 at 23:39.

Jun 1st, 2018, 09:12	#8
ASt85 Premier Member Last Online: Today 13:07 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Walderslade....Kent	I don't suppose there's some combination of "child lock" acting on all the doors due to a canbus fault is there? If the dead locks are activated the internal pulling of a handle will not operate the door lock - similarly the child lock setting should only disable the rear doors unless the child lock function has been altered to act on all doors - in many vehicles the locking of a door with a key disables ALL the internal handles via the central locking canbus operating the dead locks after the delay period even if remote locking is disabled. In many police vehicles the deadlock delay will have been set to a minimum and probably gets overlooked when they are sold off. __________________ The saddest moment is when the one who gave you the best memories....becomes a MEMORY V70 SE 2004 2.3L T5 Geartronic, C70 2005 2.0T Automatic, Sold 2.4l 20 Valve Automatic Torslander Sold 854 GLT 20v Auto

Jun 2nd, 2018, 23:42	#9
R-P Master Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Rozenburg NL	I filed the fan down to snugly fit the housing. Then I had to file the CEM-housing because applying some force led to the fins of the fan sometimes touching the CEM-housing ever so slightly causing noise. The fan is operated through a 100ohm resistor (slower RPM but/and lower noise) via the cigarettelighter (on with contact). Part of the CEM slides out and then you can open it up. You can see the tin casing shielding the processor from interference but also making sure it has little to no airflow around it. I fitted a heatsink which comes with heatconducting double sides tape, hammered out the metal lid to accomodate the heatsink and the lid that covers the PCB now presses down so the heatsink is pushed onto the processor with a little force. So now I probably end up with problems due to the PCB being under stress The fan sits over the tin box, so it sucks air past it. I think either solution might have been enough, but applying both should double my chances of success. __________________ Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. Last edited by R-P; Jun 2nd, 2018 at 23:56.

Jun 3rd, 2018, 10:54	#10
Father Ted Master Member Last Online: Feb 28th, 2023 20:25 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Wirral	Interesting to see you added a fan. I'm having DIM problems (only minor) at the moment. I've heard that these are heat related and I'm planning on fitting a fan when I've had the DIM repaired. Might do CPU as well. It is hard to believe that there is no heat sink on parts designed to go into a very hot environment. __________________ 2003 V70 2.4SE Auto. Gone now. 2003 XC90 D5. Auto.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)