Redblock turbo - running problems

tofufi · Jun 18th, 2019, 20:42

Hi folks,

I may have accidentally become responsible for a Volvo 340.

The reason I'm posting on here (700/900 forum)? It's had a redblock turbo dropped in it. I don't see an engine code on it (no cam cover), but so far as I can ascertain it's running LH2.4 and is fairly standard. Garrett T3 turbo suggests it's an earlier engine I think, and the boost is turned up a bit.

It goes rather well

but certainly isn't running quite right. I think it's had a hard life... but I'd like to try and get it running as well as possible.

At the moment, the idle isn't steady, and hunts about a bit. It also stutters a bit just off idle, if being driven gently or with the engine off-load.

It's already had: New plugs and leads (and oil/filter).

I'm thinking of trying to unblock the crankcase breathers, assuming they're still there, but would welcome any other thoughts!

kmb · Jun 18th, 2019, 20:55

Does it have a boost gauge? Do you know what pressure it is operating at?

tofufi · Jun 18th, 2019, 20:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmb

Does it have a boost gauge? Do you know what pressure it is operating at?

It does. I think it's been turned up to around 12psi.

It's fine on boost and goes well. It's just driving gently that it's not well mannered!

kmb · Jun 18th, 2019, 21:00

In relation to the issue, very basic... and I'm sure you've looked already, make sure the air filter is new and clean. I've seen a filthy air filter cause some of the problems you mention.

Worth replacing all the vacuum lines too.

tofufi · Jun 18th, 2019, 21:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmb

In relation to the issue, very basic... and I'm sure you've looked already, make sure the air filter is new and clean. I've seen a filthy air filter cause some of the problems you mention.

Good point, thanks - it's actually running a horrible cone filter as the standard 700/900 airbox is huge. I'll see what I can do about that for sure, I'd rather run a proper filter! The only issue is that the intake is on the same side as the battery, brake servo etc so the RHS of the engine bay is VERY cramped!

kmb · Jun 18th, 2019, 21:05

Let us know how it goes. Hope you get it running right.

kmb · Jun 18th, 2019, 21:06

If it has a dizzy cap and rotor arm these are a sound bet too, since you've done plugs and leads.

mocambique-amazone · Jun 18th, 2019, 21:06

first check if this is with LH2.2 or LH2.4 (cps on top of the bellhousing)
secondly: the cam , T-A-IPD or something else
thirdly: injectors (size)
fourthly: chipped or not
fifthly: Exhaust, diameter, with catalysator or not
sixthly: Sparks, which and gap. condition and brand of the leads

Location of Engine Number
On the nearside front top of the engine block on a machined horizontal flange
IIRC the last 3 digits

engines till 1989 got freeze plugs puck style (LH2.2), later ones cup style (LH2.4)

depends on the engine and parts thrown in you will never ever get a steady idle

good luck, Kay

mocambique-amazone · Jun 18th, 2019, 21:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by tofufi

Good point, thanks - it's actually running a horrible cone filter....

A cone directly on front of the AMS isn't a good idea....

Laird Scooby · Jun 18th, 2019, 22:24

Three very obvious things to check JIm, first is the condition and security of the hose between the MAF and throttle body, second is the TPS (Throttle position Switch) as it should make a microswitch when the throttle is at idle and third, clean the throttle body and idle control valve with carb cleaner.

Also if the TPS doesn't make the microswitch when in the idle position, don't immediately adjust the switch. On a normal 7/9xx there will be a white/red wire near the coolant expansion tank, taking this to earth returns the idle control valve to its closed position and you then set the idle speed at 700rpm (LH2.2) or 600rpm LH2.4) by altering the throttle butterfly. However i've come across some chimps that have simply altered the throttle butterfly to obtain a good idle when there are other faults like blocked injectors. They then haven't bothered altering the TPS to suit so it brings the idle part of the ECU into play as it should. This gives poor, erratic idle and similarly poor progression on a light throttle.

Also as others have mentioned, check/clean the falme trap, oil separator and all inlet manifold stubs for small bore vacuum pipes.

Does it have a Lambda sensor at all?

Jun 18th, 2019, 20:42	#1
tofufi Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 07:36 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Bristol	Redblock turbo - running problems Hi folks, I may have accidentally become responsible for a Volvo 340. The reason I'm posting on here (700/900 forum)? It's had a redblock turbo dropped in it. I don't see an engine code on it (no cam cover), but so far as I can ascertain it's running LH2.4 and is fairly standard. Garrett T3 turbo suggests it's an earlier engine I think, and the boost is turned up a bit. It goes rather well but certainly isn't running quite right. I think it's had a hard life... but I'd like to try and get it running as well as possible. At the moment, the idle isn't steady, and hunts about a bit. It also stutters a bit just off idle, if being driven gently or with the engine off-load. It's already had: New plugs and leads (and oil/filter). I'm thinking of trying to unblock the crankcase breathers, assuming they're still there, but would welcome any other thoughts!

Jun 18th, 2019, 20:55	#2
kmb Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 20:38 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Suffolk	Does it have a boost gauge? Do you know what pressure it is operating at? __________________ 1996 850 T5, now 2010 C30 T5 R Design

Jun 18th, 2019, 21:00	#4
kmb Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 20:38 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Suffolk	In relation to the issue, very basic... and I'm sure you've looked already, make sure the air filter is new and clean. I've seen a filthy air filter cause some of the problems you mention. Worth replacing all the vacuum lines too. __________________ 1996 850 T5, now 2010 C30 T5 R Design

Jun 18th, 2019, 21:05	#6
kmb Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 20:38 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Suffolk	Let us know how it goes. Hope you get it running right. __________________ 1996 850 T5, now 2010 C30 T5 R Design

Jun 18th, 2019, 21:06	#7
kmb Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 20:38 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Suffolk	If it has a dizzy cap and rotor arm these are a sound bet too, since you've done plugs and leads. __________________ 1996 850 T5, now 2010 C30 T5 R Design

Jun 18th, 2019, 21:06	#8
mocambique-amazone Master Member Last Online: Jan 24th, 2022 17:08 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: small village in the north of Germany	first check if this is with LH2.2 or LH2.4 (cps on top of the bellhousing) secondly: the cam , T-A-IPD or something else thirdly: injectors (size) fourthly: chipped or not fifthly: Exhaust, diameter, with catalysator or not sixthly: Sparks, which and gap. condition and brand of the leads Location of Engine Number On the nearside front top of the engine block on a machined horizontal flange IIRC the last 3 digits engines till 1989 got freeze plugs puck style (LH2.2), later ones cup style (LH2.4) depends on the engine and parts thrown in you will never ever get a steady idle good luck, Kay

Jun 18th, 2019, 22:24	#10
Laird Scooby Premier Member Last Online: Today 13:37 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lakenheath	Three very obvious things to check JIm, first is the condition and security of the hose between the MAF and throttle body, second is the TPS (Throttle position Switch) as it should make a microswitch when the throttle is at idle and third, clean the throttle body and idle control valve with carb cleaner. Also if the TPS doesn't make the microswitch when in the idle position, don't immediately adjust the switch. On a normal 7/9xx there will be a white/red wire near the coolant expansion tank, taking this to earth returns the idle control valve to its closed position and you then set the idle speed at 700rpm (LH2.2) or 600rpm LH2.4) by altering the throttle butterfly. However i've come across some chimps that have simply altered the throttle butterfly to obtain a good idle when there are other faults like blocked injectors. They then haven't bothered altering the TPS to suit so it brings the idle part of the ECU into play as it should. This gives poor, erratic idle and similarly poor progression on a light throttle. Also as others have mentioned, check/clean the falme trap, oil separator and all inlet manifold stubs for small bore vacuum pipes. Does it have a Lambda sensor at all? __________________ Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........

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