Amazon: Trying to replace ignition switch,what am I doing wrong?

[DaWhole9]

1964 Volvo Amazon wagon. New to me. Original switch was bad. There was a push button starter installed but the original ignition switch was stuck in the on position.

So I got a blue Bosch coil and a Bosch classic ignition switch that’s used in Porsche’s and many other 60s European cars. Wired it up and I get power everywhere but no power to the starter. To test everything I took the green wire to the starter and touch the constant power with the switch in the on position and the car starts up. I thought it was a bad switch, but got another switch and I have the same problem.

So what do I need to do to get rid of the push button starter switch and have a keyed ignition switch work?

[Laird Scooby]

Let me see if i've understood correctly - you've replaced the original (stuck) Volvo ignition/starter switch with a generic Bosch one and are trying to use the starter signal from the generic Bosch switch?

If so, use a test-lamp to ensure that when you turn the key to the start position, you get an output on the start terminal on the generic switch. If so, run a temporary test wire from there to the solenoid terminal that energises the solenoid to get the starter to turn.

Is it a pre-engaged stater or does it have a separate solenoid mounted for example on the inner wing?

Also is it automatic or manual? If auto, the inhibitor switch (Neutral Safety Switch) might be faulty, hence the original push-button bypass.

[DaWhole9]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Let me see if i've understood correctly - you've replaced the original (stuck) Volvo ignition/starter switch with a generic Bosch one and are trying to use the starter signal from the generic Bosch switch?

If so, use a test-lamp to ensure that when you turn the key to the start position, you get an output on the start terminal on the generic switch. If so, run a temporary test wire from there to the solenoid terminal that energises the solenoid to get the starter to turn.

Is it a pre-engaged stater or does it have a separate solenoid mounted for example on the inner wing?

Also is it automatic or manual? If auto, the inhibitor switch (Neutral Safety Switch) might be faulty, hence the original push-button bypass.

Yes. I want to use the Bosch switch instead of the Volvo switch (which is a Bosch switch as well right?).

The Volvo ignition switch has the armored cable connected to the coil so I got a Bosch Blue coil.

I used a digital multimeter to test the voltage from the switch to all the terminals. When I turn the switch to the start position I get no voltage. To the start terminal (or any terminal). This is why I thought the switch was bad. I got another one and it behaves the same way.

No clue about solenoid or anything. It all looks stock. The wire I connected to the ignition switch starter terminal is a green wire and that wire was connected to a push button starter switch. When I put the starter switch in the on position and touch that green wire to the red power wire it starts.

It’s a manual and the push button bypass was because the original switch was stuck in the on position. Here is the back of the new switch. It has 2 terminals for power input. I assumed u could use either. Could it be the starter position is getting power from both? Everything else works in every other position. Turn to left for accessories. Then off. One click to the right powered the car and coil. The only one that doesn’t is the momentary turn to start. Could it be this switch isn’t compatible? Again it’s used in a lot of European cars from the 60s.

70F1F40F-0ADB-45B7-81CF-C67F742AAFF4.jpeg

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by DaWhole9

Yes. I want to use the Bosch switch instead of the Volvo switch (which is a Bosch switch as well right?).

The Volvo ignition switch has the armored cable connected to the coil so I got a Bosch Blue coil.

I used a digital multimeter to test the voltage from the switch to all the terminals. When I turn the switch to the start position I get no voltage. To the start terminal (or any terminal). This is why I thought the switch was bad. I got another one and it behaves the same way.

No clue about solenoid or anything. It all looks stock. The wire I connected to the ignition switch starter terminal is a green wire and that wire was connected to a push button starter switch. When I put the starter switch in the on position and touch that green wire to the red power wire it starts.

It’s a manual and the push button bypass was because the original switch was stuck in the on position. Here is the back of the new switch. It has 2 terminals for power input. I assumed u could use either. Could it be the starter position is getting power from both? Everything else works in every other position. Turn to left for accessories. Then off. One click to the right powered the car and coil. The only one that doesn’t is the momentary turn to start. Could it be this switch isn’t compatible? Again it’s used in a lot of European cars from the 60s.

Attachment 125790

Try linking the two "30" terminals together to see if you get an output on the start terminal after, it may well be (without seeing a diagram for the switch) that it is in fact a double-pole switch so would need both linked.

If you have a piece of copper shim, you can make a flat link for the two 30 terminals which should be easier than trying to add extra wires in .

That's my best guess at the moment as it's gone 1am and i'm struggling to stay awake.

[DaWhole9]

Solved...My constant from Battery that I assumed was Red...was Black. It was plugged into terminal 75 so it was powering the car and the switch worked fine except 75 was turned off when turned to the starter position...so I moved the 75 wire to the open 30 wire. BAM...everything works great ad the starter motor engages. New Coil and Switch. Done...now to get these brakes sorted out and the Amazon is drivable!

[Ron Kwas]

DW9;

I should have referred you to the Wiring Diagram for the car...that way you wouldn't have to "assume" anything (not good practice anyway!!)...as I always say, because there is good consistency from WD to what was built into the cars: The color codes are your friend!

...for next time, WD for your 122: https://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg

Cheers

[DaWhole9]

Thanks Ron!