Brakes: S40 2001 LPG 1.8 Caliper Winding Tool

[doooford]

Good afternoon everyone. Believe me I've searched for this, but can't find the adaptor type for a S40 2001 LPG 1.8 to wind the rear calliper back in?
I fancy getting the tool, hopefully just a £15ish one from ebay or something but I know the S40 calliper is non standard to say the least.
What is the cheapest tool that will definitely fit?

I've found this question all over the forums but struggling to find a definitive answer. So when I do get the job done, I'll link to the tool here!

Cheers.

[Dancake]

The rear calipers on my S40 are refurbished Mitsubishi Carisma ones. The cheap wind back tool I bought on ebay worked a treat. However the tool didn't fit the old caliper that came off as it was a different fitment :/

[iamanidiot]

I used the tool you use to change the disc on an angle grinder to wind back in the calipers on my 02 V40 T4 - not sure if it's the same setup but as long as you're winding the right way it's not too difficult.

[phil_r]

I have a laser re-wind tool and it works a treat, bought of 960kg on this forum and no box so can't confirm the exact model I have.

Few on amazon, from searching it looks like it is the 1314 model and it looks like the one I have.

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=356

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/to...volvo-v40-help

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/archiv...p/t-72813.html

[phil_r]

The cheapest way is a set of long nosed pliers with a rag over the end for comfort when pushing. But you have to push very hard and turn at the same time to get it to go in. I survived with this trick for 4 years and have done new disks and pads twice on different cars, not easy but does work. The tool makes it a lot easier

[cookie]

water pump pliers and spanner

just be careful of seals, but with caliper off, just put pressure against piston with spanner through outside edge whilst rotating with pliers, I have a lazer rewind tool (you need to modify lugs to fit v40 calipers) but find spanner and pliers easier.

[doooford]

Hi all, really appreciate the answers but still seems that there is no tool that I can get under £30 that fits the bill without modification.

Why do the pistons need to be rotated anyway, just wondered if they are threaded?

[Anadinolin]

Iv used a large G clamp with a swivel head on it, put the swivel head on the piston and the piston winds itself as the pressure pushes it backwards.....now watch the forums burn as i get told "its not the right tool"


it works.

[Paffel]

Originally Posted by phil_r

The cheapest way is a set of long nosed pliers with a rag over the end for comfort when pushing. But you have to push very hard and turn at the same time to get it to go in. I survived with this trick for 4 years and have done new disks and pads twice on different cars, not easy but does work. The tool makes it a lot easier

Spot on - have a set of long nose pliers (< £5) that are perfect for this job. Just be careful you don't slip and take the boot out. Its much easier too (and probably better) if you release the bleed nipple when doing this.

[Paffel]

Originally Posted by doooford

Hi all, really appreciate the answers but still seems that there is no tool that I can get under £30 that fits the bill without modification.

Why do the pistons need to be rotated anyway, just wondered if they are threaded?

They need to be rotated as the handbrake mechanism also uses the same piston/pads as your rear foot brake mechanism.

For the brakes to engage, you need hydraulic pressure - which is great when you put your foot on the pedal, but when you want to get out, you need to take your foot off it. Ergo no pressure, no brakes.

The cable on the handbrake essentially rotates the piston slightly - as its threaded, it will move out/in depending on direction of cable force..

Perhaps think of it: As you apply the handbrake, you're effectively winding the piston out to allow the pad to meet the disc. Once you release, you are winding it in.