V70 Brakes: Handbrake Woes!

[mdmuddin]

Originally Posted by Nick44

All pictures from the driver side.
You will need Loctite, Copperslip, and Brake cleaner.
First check you parts list. Pic 0.
Snap off the handbrake lever cover to expose handbrake cable adjuster. Pic 1
Slaken (all the way) off the handbrake cable. Long series 10mm socket. Pic 2
Put car in Park or First gear and chock front wheels. Remove road wheel and support car on axle stands. Pic 3
Locate the rubber covers and plastic cap that conceals the caliper bolts, remove the cap and keep it to one side. Pic 4
Unclip the ABS wire and move it out of harms way.
Pull the caliper assembly towards you to push back the slave cylinder, or use a flat screwdriver between the pads and the disc to prise the cylinder back. You are going to throw away the disc and pads so no harm done. Spring off the outer retaining clip
Using a Hex 7mm undo the caliper bolts. Pic 5
Support the removed caliper so as not to strain the brake pipes with an old coat hanger. Pic 6
Remove the caliper carrier. 14 mm ratchet ring spanner. Pic 7, Pic 8.
Pull the disc towards you and remove. Pic 9
Detail pics of rear and forward views of shoe seats and spring layout Pic 10, Pic 11.
Remove the shoe retaining springs by cutting them off with a pair of wire cutters. Always fit new springs, Lift off the shoes, start with the non handbrake actuator side.( right hand)
This is what you now have Pic 12
Detail of shoe retaining spring mount Pic 13
Clean everything! Pic 14 And have a cup 'o tea.
This is how the assembly will look when assembled on the backplate . Pic A
Small dob of copperslip on all the shoe bearing points.
Refit the top shoe first.
The shoe retaining spring is easily fitted with a pair of snipe nose pliers, grip the centre of the spring, push in and sideways. When it goes in properly you get a very satisfying "snap/click". Check you got it right! Important Pic 15
Fit the spacer bar and small spring with the lower shoe loose, (RH side)
then swing the lower shoe up into place and refit the lower shoe retaining spring.
Seat the LH sides onto the handbrake actuator mechanism, and refit the larger spring. Easiest to hook the spring onto the top shoe, grab the bottom of the spring with a pair of snipe nose pliers, and stretch it down to the lower shoe. Mind you don't get a face full of spring, this is not easy!
It should now look like this, Pic 16
Fit the new disc. Pic 17
Refit the caplier carrier, use Locktite on the bolt threads.
Unhook the caliper, clean, and put a small amount of Copperslip in the pad seating groves. Fit the new inboard pad first, peel the backing from the outboard pad and fit the pads and caliper together onto the disc/carrier. Refit the carrier bolts and replace the plastic caps Pic 18.
Refit the outer retaining clip.
Refit the road wheel.
Gently press the brake pedal until you get "feel" back, to seat the new pads.

Now you must do the other side.

When the other side is completed return to the handbrake cable adjuster in the cabin. Before tightening up the adjuster nut, pull the handbrake up until it just bites and rotate each road wheel to centre up the shoes.
Finally adjust the handbrake cable until you have 3 clicks to fully on.

Carefully road test the car. Full rear braking will take a few (30-40)miles to bed in so dont just go stamping on the brakes and be aware of a slightly longer stopping distance until it all beds in.
Simplees! Enjoy.
Nick.

Hi, the pic's are no longer showing. I think it is something to do with when the servers where changed.

Any chance of them being reposted?

[john493]

Parts Monster are doing handbrake shoes & fitting kit (genuine Volvo) for £28 delivered - that's a good price & their service is good too:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S60-...item54227729c4

[nickbw898]

Much of the 'ineffective handbrake' problem is due to the failure to replace the rear disk/drum at the same time as the shoes for handbrake and disk pads. Although the friction surface of the shoe/pad does wear, the 'black stuff' you see on your alloys is mostly worn brake disk. Although hidden from view the same process is happening in the drum hence they become under size. Corrosion is also a major problem one that is minimized by frequent (6/12 monthly checks. They can only satisfactorily be inspected by dismantling. I have had other makes of car including 5 Fiat models and their handbrake setup and wheel adjusters are excellent. The most difficult to do (for me) were on an Alfa Romeo with the boxter engine. The handbrake operated on the front (inboard) disks but with separate pads. They were so sensative and limited in their action that any runout on the disk would cause them not to work. They had to be setup with a dial guage and measured for adjustment with a feeler guage!

I recently complained to my dealer that the brakes were not working in their normal efficient way and there seemed to be (from the feel when driving) something about the N/S front in particular. Car had an MOT at same time (passed) and I was told the brakes are fine, we found the front N/S wheel studs were loose. Well, the brakes were not fine by me, so I jacked up the front and took off both front wheels. When I looked at the N/S front and compared with the off side the cause was immediately obvious. The pad retaining/floating caliper spring had been incorrectly fitted on the N/S. The spring was in front of the lugs on the caliper bracket they should be behind. Of course once changed brake efficiency is back to normal. In future I shall ALWAYS service my own brakes every time!

[rat840771]

Just had my rear brakes replaced as the car was rocking when you released the foot brake after putting the hand brake on.

The car is 56plate 100K example. After removal all was fine with the brake shoes, drum liner was a bit grooved, But got it all replaced now with new shoes, pads and discs as it was only £60!

happy days

[dexter7176]

Originally Posted by rat840771

Just had my rear brakes replaced as the car was rocking when you released the foot brake after putting the hand brake on.

The car is 56plate 100K example. After removal all was fine with the brake shoes, drum liner was a bit grooved, But got it all replaced now with new shoes, pads and discs as it was only £60!

happy days

Hi mate I'm going to be doing mine soon, where did you get your stuff from, great price!

[Nick44]

Sorry guys,
The pics were lost when the servers changed, and I don't have the originals anymore.
If you root through back issues of Driver, they are in print.

[pikeaj]

you can get a kit on good old ebay to repair the ally block if its broken
eBay item number:281841329022 for example i bought a 2nd unit then found this last year

[Richardkimber]

Originally Posted by pikeaj

you can get a kit on good old ebay to repair the ally block if its broken
eBay item number:281841329022 for example i bought a 2nd unit then found this last year

Is this 272212278281 the same kit, as the one you quote has closed ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-S60-...YAAOSw7KJXD~0J

[P4]

Hello fellas. I bought a 57 plate S60 d5 a couple of months ago knowing it needed a full brake overhaul. New discs, pads, handbrake shoes and brake fluid. Rubbed down all the backplates, greased all springs, cables etc. Brakes have been superb since but I have been getting a squeak from the nsr wheel for the past week which is steadily getting worse.

Is this problem likely to be around the shoes (grit, dirt) or the mechanism? Handbrake works fine although there is a small amount of roll when applied.

Would like to know what I'm getting into as time is not my greatest friend at this time of year.

[john493]

Check if the left rear brake is binding - does it get hot on a short run ?
Does the noise change with very light application of the brake pedal ?
If you're sure that's where the noise is coming from, I'd pop the wheel off & inspect.