T5 Screaming/Blowing sound - AGAIN!

[Welton]

I've had my T5 for 60K miles (now on 84K) and have never had this problem, I expected it but nothing. Weird.

Stu I think it's best attacked from underneath up on a proper lift to get to the lower fixings, it's a difficult job to do at home where you can only get the car a foot off the ground or whatever.

I can't see it taking more than an hour tops. I wonder if an exhaust place would do it? I've had downpipes fitted at these places where they need to get right up as far as the manifold.

[v70stu]

God suggestion, thanks. The car is in with a local Volvo specialist next Wednesday for the B4 shocks to be fitted and I will probably as them to have a try. I did note that access seems to be, from the first post, from the top, using a mirror. I looked underneath last night and can't get to any from down there, as the turbo and various pipes are in the way. If it's fiddly rather than difficult and requires some fairly basic sockets, spanners etc then I might have another go over the weekend. My back up is the garage doing it but I was trying to gauge the labour cost.

[NickP]

A couple of weeks ago my V50 T5 very suddenly started sounding a bit like a rally car. Also noticed exhaust fumes in the cabin. I wondered if the flexi section at the front of the exhaust had gone. Nope, got it up on the ramps today, took the undertray off and a couple of bolts fell off the undertray onto the floor. And looking up, there was the culprit for the bolts and exhaust noise / fumes...



The third one was quite loose too. Never had this happen on any other car. Also, got flagged down by another driver yesterday to tell me my exhaust looked really loose and was bouncing down and nearly hitting the road over any bumps. Lo and behold, one of the rear hangers had broken, so that got welded while it was up on the ramps.

[Jeffscarborough]

My solution to this problem would be to fit Spring washers next to the nuts.
Some here 5/16 = 8mm
http://www.bits4landys.co.uk/s2_s3_rivets_fittings.htm

[NickP]

Definitely worth getting it up on some proper ramps. Dead easy 10 min job then assuming you've got the bolts.

[v70stu]

I never updated after my last post above. It turned out to be the manifold bolts, as experienced by others.
That one above is crazy!

[shleky]

I had the same issue, sounded like a sqeaky belt at a cold start which went away within 30-45 seconds. The problem began to escalate in such a way that the sound returned when letting off the gas for a good period of time like going down a long hill for example.
I set out to check the manifold bolts after finding this forum discussion. I was able to get to them from the top of the engine bay by removing the turbo piping and the removing the heat shield. It’s a bit hard to get to but you can access the bolts from above. Sure enough 4 bolts where loose on the turbo side of the manifold. After tightening the bolts the problem disappeared entirely. We shall see how long it takes for the symptom to return. My try some type of locking washer if it happens again.

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by shleky

of the manifold. After tightening the bolts the problem disappeared entirely. We shall see how long it takes for the symptom to return. My try some type of locking washer if it happens again.

Dont get your hopes up, sorry to say that :/ I am battling this issue since 2 years ago. Got it already tightened as best as possible, twice!, but it usually lasts no more than half a year. Now my car sounds again like chirping mouse every time i touch the throttle :/ The only 100% solution is to replace manifold gasket (old type had a flaw and had been redesigned) and bolts, preferably studs aswell.
In my case (AWD) access is even worse so I am preparing myself for a hefty bill

[Yobbo]

This is apparently all too common, Milltek apparently sell a special nut and bolt set that eliminates this issue.

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by Yobbo

This is apparently all too common, Milltek apparently sell a special nut and bolt set that eliminates this issue.

See, its not even down to nuts/bolts issue, if you replace old ones with OEM new you are done for another 10 more years. Its just the original solution (old-type gasket) plus original nuts + years of high temp, warping etc. Maybe if from new they used different parts, it wouldnt be so common, but now, once you replace/renew the whole thing I guess you may aswell use OEM parts as much as any "reinforced" ones.