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Aux belt replacement - tensioner required also?

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Old Sep 14th, 2017, 22:19   #11
Clan
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Thanks again, all good info to know.
If I do have a look, following the info in the 'articles' and going in through the wheel liner, what am I listening looking for? Does anyone have photos of the hydraulic tensioner compared to the mechanical one? Obviously a hydraulic one will have an oil line to it, but are there any other obvious differences?
Previous car was the infamous BMW N47 320d, so I'm fully acquainted with hydraulic tensioner failure, but that had a hydraulic tensioner plus a mechanical one just for good measure!
No oil line .. The hydraulic tensioner does not fail, it is just too stiff in cold weather and overloads the belt when the engine fires up initially .
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Old Sep 14th, 2017, 22:28   #12
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So if it's hydraulically operated what causes it to move?
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Old Sep 14th, 2017, 22:41   #13
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So if it's hydraulically operated what causes it to move?
a spring as usual , but it is in a cylinder with a thick oil to damp the movement. .
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Old Sep 14th, 2017, 23:09   #14
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Ah, that makes sense. Thank you.
Not truly hydraulic then, just hydraulically dampens mechanical, presumably intended to avoid resonance.
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Old Sep 15th, 2017, 00:27   #15
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Ah, that makes sense. Thank you.
Not truly hydraulic then, just hydraulically dampens mechanical, presumably intended to avoid resonance.
indeed yes , They had a hydraulic one on the 850 engine from the start , it ran faultlessly . 100% reliable on the cars , so they do have the know how , but It took them about 4 or 5 years and 3 attempts to get the Tensioner reliable on the later 5 cylinder Diesel ..They had a reliable one on the first 5 cylinder diesels 2002 to 2006 , I guess ford demanded cost cutting .. at a high cost of course ! It doesn't make sense does it .. same with the engine blocks , ultra solid until 2007-8 when they started making them in the Ford Bridgend factory , they shrunk the top of the block, under-mining the head gasket area to save alluminium , it resulted in some troublesome head sealing on some engines .
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Old Sep 15th, 2017, 05:45   #16
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At least it is easily accessible. The one on the timing chain on the BMW requires the engine to come out and costs over £2k to put right!

Completely agree about cost cutting. Before around yr 2000 manufacturers seemed to be designing and producing the best components they could. Since then they seem to be producing to a tolerable failure rate for minimum cost. I guess that they have realised they don't want to get trapped in the everlasting light bulb scenario.
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Old Sep 16th, 2017, 20:58   #17
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Very easy DIY this job if you wanted to save some more pennies!
Just done our aux belt and tensioner this afternoon. I wouldn't call it very easy. You have to fight the spring to remove the top 10mm bolt. It has to be turned right against the clockwise stop. If you are lucky you can insert a 4mm pin into the tensioner body to lock it. But I couldn't get access so had to use a combination of socket drive on the T60 torx bit and at the same time wrestle with the ratchet drive on the bolt. Worth the effort though as I guess a garage would charge at least an hour to do it.
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