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S80 '06-'16 / V70 & XC70 '07-'16 General Forum for the P3-platform S80 and 70-series models |
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Aux belt replacement - tensioner required also?Views : 1134 Replies : 16Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 14th, 2017, 22:19 | #11 | |
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Sep 14th, 2017, 22:28 | #12 |
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So if it's hydraulically operated what causes it to move?
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Sep 14th, 2017, 22:41 | #13 |
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a spring as usual , but it is in a cylinder with a thick oil to damp the movement. .
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Sep 14th, 2017, 23:09 | #14 |
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Ah, that makes sense. Thank you.
Not truly hydraulic then, just hydraulically dampens mechanical, presumably intended to avoid resonance.
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2011 V70 D5 (205) Geartronic R-Design SE |
Sep 15th, 2017, 00:27 | #15 |
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indeed yes , They had a hydraulic one on the 850 engine from the start , it ran faultlessly . 100% reliable on the cars , so they do have the know how , but It took them about 4 or 5 years and 3 attempts to get the Tensioner reliable on the later 5 cylinder Diesel ..They had a reliable one on the first 5 cylinder diesels 2002 to 2006 , I guess ford demanded cost cutting .. at a high cost of course ! It doesn't make sense does it .. same with the engine blocks , ultra solid until 2007-8 when they started making them in the Ford Bridgend factory , they shrunk the top of the block, under-mining the head gasket area to save alluminium , it resulted in some troublesome head sealing on some engines .
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Sep 15th, 2017, 05:45 | #16 |
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At least it is easily accessible. The one on the timing chain on the BMW requires the engine to come out and costs over £2k to put right!
Completely agree about cost cutting. Before around yr 2000 manufacturers seemed to be designing and producing the best components they could. Since then they seem to be producing to a tolerable failure rate for minimum cost. I guess that they have realised they don't want to get trapped in the everlasting light bulb scenario.
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2011 V70 D5 (205) Geartronic R-Design SE |
Sep 16th, 2017, 20:58 | #17 |
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Just done our aux belt and tensioner this afternoon. I wouldn't call it very easy. You have to fight the spring to remove the top 10mm bolt. It has to be turned right against the clockwise stop. If you are lucky you can insert a 4mm pin into the tensioner body to lock it. But I couldn't get access so had to use a combination of socket drive on the T60 torx bit and at the same time wrestle with the ratchet drive on the bolt. Worth the effort though as I guess a garage would charge at least an hour to do it.
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