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Old Sep 17th, 2006, 21:46   #21
bb54
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hi buddy, get your fault codes read and take it from there.
much quicker and much cheaper in the long run.

wayne
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Old Sep 18th, 2006, 19:29   #22
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Hi bb54.

Unfortunatley there is no codes logged. I was over at volvo and they had a look at the car and said that if there was no light on that there would be no codes. They said that even if there was old ones stored in memory, that it would not make any difference to the current problem.

Does any body else at all have any more ideas?

Im really getting desperate.

Kind Regards
Stuart
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 03:07   #23
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wow Stuart, youv changed some bits there .
mate, half the stuff your changing and thinking about changing carries fault codes mate.

are you sure the bulb hasnt blown or been removed from the fuel/ignition system warning light ?

if i were you id use a multi meter (as you have one)to read and clear any codes you have/are stored (dont take MD's word for it) and take it from there.

haynes has a list of codes, if all is good and no codes are being thrown up, then you can eliminate any prob listed in haynes fault code list.

wayne
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 07:17   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuartvolvo View Post
Hi bb54.

Unfortunatley there is no codes logged. I was over at volvo and they had a look at the car and said that if there was no light on that there would be no codes. They said that even if there was old ones stored in memory, that it would not make any difference to the current problem.
What a load of b*******
There can be numerous fault codes logged before the light is triggered. The codes represent faults of all severities, so only major fault codes or a series of less serious ones will illuminate the light. Sounds like your dealer is talking out of his big end. The codes are stored until cleared, so how can he make the judgement that they are irrelevant until he's read them?

Best to either read the codes yourself or find someone who kows what they're talking about.
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 09:38   #25
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Thanks guys. As i have said, any help or advice to help get to the bottom of this is greatly appreciated.

My next question then is how do i find out exactly what electronic system my car is using, so that i can then try and find a appropriate code reader.

I am slightly confused, in this area, as i have read from a lot of posts on this site, that you can make a home made code rader, buy them, or buy software to run on your computer and link your computer up to the car.

Basically all i want is to get my hands on a code reader that will read and reset all the codes that is stored.
I know though that they dont usually read abs. I am not bothered about that as my abs is working well, and it is not too difficult to work out what is rong with it after it fails anyway.

Regards
Stuart
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 09:57   #26
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bloody hell, sounds a nightmare mate, just a thought have you carried out a compression test with the engine hot, if so were the figures ok? ps are you now getting a spark when cranking with the engine hot? have you also checked the fuel pressure when starting hot

Last edited by chow; Sep 19th, 2006 at 10:18.
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 11:17   #27
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Originally Posted by stuartvolvo View Post
Thanks guys.

Basically all i want is to get my hands on a code reader that will read and reset all the codes that is stored.
Hi, I'm in Glasgow every day. If you want to roll up I can read and clear your ECU and ABS codes for you? I have the flash code reader and various other hand held and PC based systems.
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 12:17   #28
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Thanks Alot ShadeTek.

I would greatly appreciate it. I stay just out side glasgow, in Motherwell to be exact. It doesent take me long to get into glasgow, well that depends on the time of day and what side of glasgow. As i am sure that you will agree, you dont want to be caught in the rush hour traffic.

Kind Regards
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 12:27   #29
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Hi, I'm not far off the bottom of Woodlands road. Do you work in town or outside? You can park outside my front door and I can get out of work just about anytime during the day as long as I'm not busy fire fighting, helping the computer illiterates reboot their PCs.
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Old Sep 19th, 2006, 13:00   #30
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Default OH **** another one

Stuart, read my posts on exactly the same problem................the FIX was to clean the gearbox to engine flange to a shiney bright state - that sorta fits in with new engine fitted - i take it that this was a S/H engine..........i know i know i know sounds stupid especially as the car will start from cold every time but not from warm or hot. AND an earth strap or even two or three additional earth straps between the engine and the gearbox wont fix this either.

IF you have a manual car it will be easy to prove what the problem is 100% (electrical interference from the starter motor causing the ECU not be able to read the camshaft/crankshaft sensor signals) see if the car will push start if it will then the problem lies with the starter motor and RFI/EMI eminating from it. Replacing it with a brand new one might help but i suspect wont fix this. You can try moving any sensor cables that are close to the starter or the main power lead to the starter

Why this happens only when hot i have no idea but for sure Volvo dont know either in fact for some silly reason they dont seem to know that this problem exists.

I am in Mozzerwell too so if you need any help give me a shout PM me with your address and phone numbers and i can come round easy peasy - i am a trained MV engineer (long time ago) and also more recently a Computer and Coms engineer so have some understanding of EMI/RFI issues - for sure i would love to find an easy quick fix for this - there must be one.

thanks

David

Last edited by DLM48; Sep 19th, 2006 at 13:05. Reason: spalling errar
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