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960 volvo estate, good idea? or bad idea?

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Old Apr 23rd, 2009, 22:32   #11
capt jack
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Best for a 740? Suggest, as you are in Donny, that you first try Central Garage at Carcroft.

tel: 01302 722282

They install a wide range of makes, and will give you the right advice.

Cheers

Jack
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Old Apr 27th, 2009, 05:09   #12
volvovic
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Jack, thank you for your suggestion. However, I am in Doncaster Australia. I'm going to ring Central Garage because there are so few Volvo's on gas here of the vintage that I have that information is sparse. Below are photos of my setup so far. Simple mixer and an OMVL converter. The garage I use is excellent but no one can have the solution to every problem. So, I thank the forum for its imput.

Koule
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Old Apr 27th, 2009, 22:12   #13
capt jack
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Oh No! I never realised there was another Doncaster - surely it has to be better than the original!

Good luck!

Jack
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Old Apr 29th, 2009, 00:07   #14
classicswede
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvovic View Post
Jack, thank you for your suggestion. However, I am in Doncaster Australia. I'm going to ring Central Garage because there are so few Volvo's on gas here of the vintage that I have that information is sparse. Below are photos of my setup so far. Simple mixer and an OMVL converter. The garage I use is excellent but no one can have the solution to every problem. So, I thank the forum for its imput.

Koule
Hi Koule,

seeing this picture it gets even worse. They have used an omvl r90 balanced reducer (UK part no 901509). You most defilanatly do not need the balance pipe on the back of the reducer. You can just pull it off and it will then work as per a 501 / 504 /505 or 506 std R90e.

I also notice that it is running some kind of closed loop system. If you look at the unit that is in the pipe between the OMVl regulator and the mixer on the manifold. Does it have 4 wires going to it or just the vacuum pipe that is on the top? If it is only the pipe then it will only be a very basic early type mixture correction device. If it has wires then it should be operated by a ecu. If changing the position of the R90 does not solve the problems then I would sugest removing this device and fitting a siple screw valve to then see if that solves the problem. Personly the best control units I have used for closed loop is the good old AEB leonardo or the OMVL millennium badged version.

Out of interest do you know what make that valve is?
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Old Apr 29th, 2009, 11:11   #15
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Just a thought on the use of the 901509 reducer. It is posible that Aus spec cars have the mechanical type air flow meter.

If it does have the mechanical meter then the nest thing to do is fit an OMVL part no 912015 or 912017 to hold the flap open whilst on gas.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 13:20   #16
volvovic
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I was wrong about that thing between the reducer and mixture. It does have 4 wires and is a Gaztec CV-30. After a heated discussion about whether there was an ECU with some friends, I was informed that there was an ECU under the dash. What type it is I don't know but I have a manual switch to go from gas and petrol. Any more tips?
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 20:05   #17
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Glad they have fitted closed loop. If after you have moved the reducer to where the air box is and you still have issues it could be an idea to try a manual open loop valve to see if you have lpg ecu or stepper motor issues.

Another thing I notice is there is no sign of an injector simulator. It could be because the installer has soldered into the wiring or it could be a case they have cut off the fuel pump. On volvo efi engines it is not a good idea to cut the pump. The simulator used needs to be a 4 channel not a single.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 22:10   #18
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Default LPG Kit cost

Mine cost 580 quid from Tiny tech and fitted my self over two weekends. I used the 'closed loop' kit due to the age of my 2 ltr injection ECU. The kit also included the serial lead and usb adapter with software to configure the system. It will take twenty full tanks to payback the cost of the kit which for me is a little over a year. but hey it switches seamlessly to gas and i,m chuffed to bits with it. I got a 90 litre tank which is full at 78 ltrs. Also got the flashlube kit just so my valves stay good. It,s good to watch the fuel counter go twice as fast as the money counter. Power to the Gas car. Oh sorry mine was a 93 'Torslander' 240 Estate. p.s i went and got the kit personally from the Tiny Tech farm which i think i got a discount for cash. because i worked it out as about 745 quid from the website.
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Old May 4th, 2009, 18:36   #19
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Probably cash discount. Did you end up with a horid bigas reg or an omvl one?

There is 100% no need for flashlube one these engines tbh. having done over 150'000 in one engine with no wear on the valves train I think that goes to prove it.

If you are prepared to self fit then it does save some extra cash for you. But that is only any good if you are mechanicaly capable.

Kit prices do depend on what model car it is for.
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