2000 V70 Starting Problem

[Chris_Rogers]

You may need to do some aggressive cleaning of the the connector to get the oxide off the pins and reassemble with some connector grease or vasaline.

If that doesn't work then you may have to look further back at the connector on the immobilizer ECU (box under dash next to the steering column).

Antenna rings will only be available from a scrap car or a Volvo dealer.

[reise]

I have a very similar problem.
I posted my problem in my C70 here:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=193758

I hope you can help me.

[Chris_Rogers]

Follow the instuctions in the thread, it should fix the problem.

[BramV70]

Having similar problems however since the last week it has become rather constant in the sense that in the morning at 6 AM the car does not start 9does crank) and in the afternoon when i return from work with enough daylight and time the car starts perfectly.

We are having quite some fogg here in the morning at the moment so i suspect humidity has to do with the problems.

After a fail to start (in the morning) a parasitic draw empties the battery.
Battery condition is fine (can do several start attempts and also had it tested)
Car cranks and gives the suggestion of a normal start (for a split second)
Continuing starting does not give this suggestion again
Remove key and put it back in again gives the suggestion of a normal start (split second)

Spraying start help in the air intake does not give a reponse.

Will measure the antenna ring tonight howerver suspect it will not give a result.

Previous owner had the antenna ring replaced (equal problems) and even had the connector to the immobiliser replaced in an attempt to solve this problem. Am having teh car now for two years and drives fantastic in summer and has this starting problem in autumn/winter.

Any tips where to search?

Problem is in the afternoons when i have time and light there is no problem so very difficult to find. ODB reader does not show any fault codes.

[BramV70]

Small addition, can a faulty alternator cause the immobiliser to kick in and prevent the engine to start?

Reason for this question is the large parasitic draw after a failed start attempt combined with the signs of a failing alternator:
- Does charge however voltage is 13.8V
- In case a user is switched by the headlights show a light flickering
- In case all users are on the voltage drops to 13.2V
- With all users on, the cooling fan kicking in causes a short drop to below 13V values (meter shows 12.9V however is slow).

Never heard this could be a connection on the other hand i am getting quite desperate when it concerns volvo electronics.....

[BramV70]

to be clear with not cranking i mean engine is turning around but not running, not sure if my english is correct here as i am no native speaker still learning.....

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by BramV70

Having similar problems however since the last week it has become rather constant in the sense that in the morning at 6 AM the car does not start 9does crank) and in the afternoon when i return from work with enough daylight and time the car starts perfectly.

We are having quite some fogg here in the morning at the moment so i suspect humidity has to do with the problems.

After a fail to start (in the morning) a parasitic draw empties the battery.
Battery condition is fine (can do several start attempts and also had it tested)
Car cranks and gives the suggestion of a normal start (for a split second)
Continuing starting does not give this suggestion again
Remove key and put it back in again gives the suggestion of a normal start (split second)

Spraying start help in the air intake does not give a reponse.

Will measure the antenna ring tonight howerver suspect it will not give a result.

Previous owner had the antenna ring replaced (equal problems) and even had the connector to the immobiliser replaced in an attempt to solve this problem. Am having teh car now for two years and drives fantastic in summer and has this starting problem in autumn/winter.

Any tips where to search?

Problem is in the afternoons when i have time and light there is no problem so very difficult to find. ODB reader does not show any fault codes.

Check and clean all earth points.
Check and clean throttle area.

[BramV70]

Ok just done that this evening, even pulled a new wire from the lower block (already fitted the upper block with a new wire a few days ago) because the old one was feeling a bit loose in the insulation.
Most earth points were clean, the ones in the bow however required some cleaning (the one on the starboard side of the car is very difficult to reach, cheated a little bit by drilling a hole in the plastic).

Throttle house i cleaned yesterday as it was indeed showing signs of getting sticky (release the accelerator at high revs would result in a drop below 400 rpm and occasional shut down). After cleaning the unit the below 400 drop was gone.

Furthermore i cleaned the ignition switch and checked the resistance of the antenna ring (5.2 Ohm) as well as realtime readings for inlet and coolant temperature (inlet appears to be slightly off. Was reading 35 degr and workshop for sure was around 15 degr). MAP 32 kpa, MAF 4 g/s.

Also opened the immobilizer to check for signs of humidity however no corrosion or whatsoever could be observed.

Before doing all this the car required 2 attempts for starting (2nd attempt i pressed the accelerator complete) before it bust to life. After this i had a P1670 "Please refer to the service manual" fault code, i cleared it and did not have it back so far.

Lets see tomorrow, this evening i did a test drive and she drives wonderful, i am afraid she will run fine the complete weekend as the forecast is dry weather. Probably the start problems will only come back on monday 6.00 AM when i need to go to work...........

Alternator cannot be the cause is suspect?

One more thing caught my eye: as i tried to rule out the remote control as a cause i am using the key only. Today i noticed the alarm light does not blink after locking and thinking about it i suspect it did not blink since a long time (even when i was still using the remote).

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by BramV70

Ok just done that this evening, even pulled a new wire from the lower block (already fitted the upper block with a new wire a few days ago) because the old one was feeling a bit loose in the insulation.
Most earth points were clean, the ones in the bow however required some cleaning (the one on the starboard side of the car is very difficult to reach, cheated a little bit by drilling a hole in the plastic).

Throttle house i cleaned yesterday as it was indeed showing signs of getting sticky (release the accelerator at high revs would result in a drop below 400 rpm and occasional shut down). After cleaning the unit the below 400 drop was gone.

Furthermore i cleaned the ignition switch and checked the resistance of the antenna ring (5.2 Ohm) as well as realtime readings for inlet and coolant temperature (inlet appears to be slightly off. Was reading 35 degr and workshop for sure was around 15 degr). MAP 32 kpa, MAF 4 g/s.

Also opened the immobilizer to check for signs of humidity however no corrosion or whatsoever could be observed.

Before doing all this the car required 2 attempts for starting (2nd attempt i pressed the accelerator complete) before it bust to life. After this i had a P1670 "Please refer to the service manual" fault code, i cleared it and did not have it back so far.

Lets see tomorrow, this evening i did a test drive and she drives wonderful, i am afraid she will run fine the complete weekend as the forecast is dry weather. Probably the start problems will only come back on monday 6.00 AM when i need to go to work...........

Alternator cannot be the cause is suspect?

One more thing caught my eye: as i tried to rule out the remote control as a cause i am using the key only. Today i noticed the alarm light does not blink after locking and thinking about it i suspect it did not blink since a long time (even when i was still using the remote).

From an earlier reply, your alternator sounds a bit suspect.
Non turbo air intake temp will always be a lot higher than ambient temp.
What are your MAF g/s at 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000 revs?

[BramV70]

readings were at approx 1000 revs.

This morning before starting i measured the battery current to find it below 12V, decided to start changing the alternator and battery, on the go did the spark plugs as well.

Charging is back to 14.2 V now however replacement of the spark plugs triggered the following codes:
P0350
P0351
P0352
P0353
P0354
P0355

Car runs fine did they provide me with the wrong spark plugs?

Hope it will start starting in mornings again......