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cambelt jumped a tooth.

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Old Feb 18th, 2010, 18:25   #11
Rubic cube
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as it is still in running order i am assuming there is no mechanical noise can you not take plugs out and test compressions on each cylinder if you haven't got a compression tester you could get a rough idea by covering each plug hole in turn if you know what i mean
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Old Feb 18th, 2010, 21:43   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubic cube View Post
as it is still in running order i am assuming there is no mechanical noise can you not take plugs out and test compressions on each cylinder if you haven't got a compression tester you could get a rough idea by covering each plug hole in turn if you know what i mean
hi there, comp test done with good readings across all 5. 235-234-235-234-235. summit like that, ive posted the readings in another thread.also car has had a head test using a coloured dye in a tube put ontop of the water expantion tank etc, dye stayed the same colour, so there was no problems.
the dam thing sounds like its only running on 4 at the mo. getting sick of the dam thing now lol.
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Old Feb 18th, 2010, 22:41   #13
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Don't know what (com) should be But they seem ok pretty near each other So i would i think look somewhere else Plugs leads not familiar with setup i mean coil or coil packs I'm not saying it hasn't jumped a tooth but with (com) pressures that you have i would not think it has. Fuel side or electrics my moneys on let us know how you get on hope you get it sorted
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 10:26   #14
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hi all, so if i am one tooth out is it poss just to take the tention off the belt etc and turn it back into place and re tention?????
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 13:16   #15
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hi all, so if i am one tooth out is it poss just to take the tention off the belt etc and turn it back into place and re tention?????
it is possible to take of the belt and reposition if it has jumped a tooth,but if it hasn't had a recent belt that's been fitted incorrectly you should be looking into why its jumped ? if the belt was tight when removed it wont have jumped.

might be worth getting the codes read,might give an indication if its a faulty sensor ie air flow sensor/coolant sensor etc.
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 18:21   #16
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it is possible to take of the belt and reposition if it has jumped a tooth,but if it hasn't had a recent belt that's been fitted incorrectly you should be looking into why its jumped ? if the belt was tight when removed it wont have jumped.

might be worth getting the codes read,might give an indication if its a faulty sensor ie air flow sensor/coolant sensor etc.
since ive had the car its always felt like its missing abit, the belt might have jumped when it was fitted, im told its easy to make this mistake and the car will still run on a tooth out, do i need any special tools to re loosen belt etc and how do you remove the serpentine belt or does it not need removing.
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 18:45   #17
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hi all, think me cambelt has jumped a tooth, have now checked it 3 times and it still comes back to the same postion, your thoughts please.

and im 100% the crank is lined up. is in the same postion as this one.
you cant line up the timing belt on the outer pulley marks this is for static timing with a timing gun you must remove the crank pulley that the fan belt goes on to and the marks are on the timing belt pulley under that its the only way to check if its lined up
Also a timing belt rarely ever jumps and if it does it will remove other teeth off the belt in the process and 99 times out of 100 it will cause valve to piston contact
hope this helps

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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 19:03   #18
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Caution here mate, just because the cam pulley marks are out dose not mean the timing is incorrect. When we replace timing belts we use the rear cam locking tool to time the cams correctly and lock the crank with a dedicated pin.

The cam pully is attached to the cams by 3 bolts, the puley holes are elongated which alows the cam puleys to move. This is so during setting the tensioner the load is distributed on the full run of the belt.

To confirm cam and crank correct sequensing an oscilloscope is used to vew cam and crank corilation. Also your compressions do not indicate incorrect valve timing. A vaccume guage should show around 22 hg at idle confirming correct valve timing.
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 22:28   #19
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ok thanks very much for your info.
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 22:36   #20
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Originally Posted by laurence View Post
you cant line up the timing belt on the outer pulley marks this is for static timing with a timing gun you must remove the crank pulley that the fan belt goes on to and the marks are on the timing belt pulley under that its the only way to check if its lined up
Also a timing belt rarely ever jumps and if it does it will remove other teeth off the belt in the process and 99 times out of 100 it will cause valve to piston contact
hope this helps

laurence
thanks very much, was just reading the haynes man, and it states that them to marks should be bang on in the middle of the v-marks on the case, so if the bottom crank was in line and no 1 piston is at the top of the stroke, and the rotor arm points to no1 on the cap then why would it be just over a tooth, so are we saying then that as above ie crank- piston no1 -arm at no1 are we saying the timing isnt out. just trying to find out why the car trys to restart sometimes when you turn it off, its done it b4 and smoke came from under bonnet, when i unclipped the air filter lid and lifted the filter the white smoke came out of there and it smelt off fuel.
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