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Volvo 940 Wanting to Cut Out on Startup in Mornings

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Old Nov 12th, 2018, 13:35   #11
Rversteeg
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Just to be sure: are you starting without touching the accelerator pedal? If not, the idle speed controller cannot set the idle speed and the engine speed will fall back to the basic setting of approx. 500 rpm, which is too low to keep it running when cold.
I would certainly have the throttle position sensor (TPS) checked as it "tells" the computer when to control the engine speed.
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Old Nov 12th, 2018, 14:46   #12
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
From what you've just said there Tracey, it sounds suspiciously like you need a new distributor cap and rotor arm, possibly also the non-return T-valve on the underside of the bonnet that supplies the washer jets.

As a general thing, Volvos don't usually suffer from damp unless something is wrong somewhere. When warm the idle speed should be about 700rpm, when cold between about 1000-1500rpm, the colder it is, the higher the revs will be until it warms up.

I'd hang fire on the sensor until you get the garage to investigate the dizzy cap and rotor arm, something is being effected by damp from what you've said, the sensor responds to temperature change within the engine.
Hi thanks for the advice, car is now booked in with garage, only they only deal with it mechanically not electrics, so the knocking will be sorted on the left wheel, but George Reid does the electrics, but hes busy so just need to source a distributor and order the temp sensor at same time.
Hubby has checked later today if there is leakage from the t-junction at water jets, nothing leaking so must be the distributor as the orange cap reveals a crack of some sort he said.
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Old Nov 12th, 2018, 14:49   #13
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Originally Posted by Rversteeg View Post
Just to be sure: are you starting without touching the accelerator pedal? If not, the idle speed controller cannot set the idle speed and the engine speed will fall back to the basic setting of approx. 500 rpm, which is too low to keep it running when cold.
I would certainly have the throttle position sensor (TPS) checked as it "tells" the computer when to control the engine speed.
the car has had this problem since we bought it, last owner couldnt find the problem either. No the accelerator isnt pressed before turning the key, but now with it being cold in the mornings, turning the key then holding down the pedal to keep it going.
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Old Nov 12th, 2018, 14:51   #14
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Best thing to do is give it a good high Rev to around 3000-5000rpm just quickly not for a prolonged period. This will clear anything out that might stop the idle control valve working. Mine idles well after that which shows it is the idle control valve being blocked up with oil. I don't recommend doing it all the time due to oil needing time to heat up and get around the engine but it will help diagnose what it might be.
I have to do that whenever I need to use the car for work. I dont set off until im sure its warmed up, because its and automatic I wont reverse it off the drive until I know its not going to stall in the middle of the road.
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Old Nov 12th, 2018, 16:49   #15
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Update, husband started it again at lunchtime at work, the car was lumpy as buggery. Hes just been out to it again five minutes ago and ran like a dream. Hes hoping it will be fine when he finishes at 4.30pm.

Weird???
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Old Nov 13th, 2018, 00:45   #16
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It’s sounding like the idle control valve then, it’s under the inlet manifold in a rubber grommeted bracket with 2 jubilee clips holding it to the pipes and 1 electrical connector. Take it out and clean it and it should idle better but the crankcase vent is probably mostly blocked so it’ll blow oil into it again. It’s free to clean as long as you have carb cleaner or something similar to break the oil down.
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Old Nov 14th, 2018, 08:01   #17
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Again yesterday and today bit lumpy again starting but the car runs like a dream as soon as it goes.

So idle control valve, well ill ask him to give it a clean this weekend before spending any more money on parts.
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Old Nov 14th, 2018, 09:28   #18
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Originally Posted by albertsmith View Post
Hi thanks for the advice, car is now booked in with garage, only they only deal with it mechanically not electrics, so the knocking will be sorted on the left wheel, but George Reid does the electrics, but hes busy so just need to source a distributor and order the temp sensor at same time.
Hubby has checked later today if there is leakage from the t-junction at water jets, nothing leaking so must be the distributor as the orange cap reveals a crack of some sort he said.
If the dizzy cap is cracked, that will almost certainly be your problem. Worth replacing the rotor arm at the same time to be on the safe side.
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 12:28   #19
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Right now hes cleaned the idle control valve with carb cleaner its now lumpy and burning black smoke fromengine so the cleaner has made it worse. You can smell the carb cleaner. It was black inside, its now shiny.

How long should we leave it before starting car again?
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 12:47   #20
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Black smoke .... from the engine? Where is the smoke ?????

A damaged dizzy cap is a definite problem. Init.

After cleaning a control valve? I guess, providing it has been done okies, not within my experience yet, then .... perhaps give the car a good drive ... it is still in recovery? And the electronics might need to sense and adjust to the situation.
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