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My Supercharger Project

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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 10:28   #1
Oilline
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Default My Supercharger Project

Thought some of you might be interested in my supercharger project.
Its based on a B20F and uses a Rotrex supercharger mounted where the alternator used to sit. I have fabricated my own bracket out of aluminium and turned a new crank pulley incorporating a 8 groove pully to drive the Rotrex.
Idler pulleys are from a Sierra Cosworth.

I have junked the D Jetronic system (all parts available if anyone needs them).
Instead i am using a Megasquirt v2.5 to manage fuel and ignition. Original D Jet injectors replaced with Cosworth yellow injectors which use the same mounting hardware. Throttle position sensor replaced with a Bosch unit from a Volvo 850.
A Ford air temperature sensor fitted to the inlet manifold. A Ford water temperature sensor fitted into the head. A wide band Lambda sensor is mounted in the Simonz 4 branch exhaust manifold. A manifold absolute pressure sensor is integral on the Megasquirt board. The original engine driven fuel pump supplies a Swirl Pot mounted under the bonnet. From the swirl pot a Bosch high pressure pump feeds the injectors via a FSE fuel pressure regulator. This returns to the swirl pot and the swirl pot returns to the tank.
Ignition uses the Ford EDIS wasted spark system. A 36-1 trigger wheel is mounted on the crank pulley and is witnessed by a Ford VR sensor. This supplies timing signals back to the Megasquirt.

The outlet from the spercharger feeds the inlet via a Sierra Cosworth intercooler which fits nicely in front of the radiator.

I just need to wire it all up now and then see how it goes.
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Old Aug 18th, 2008, 23:28   #2
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that looks sweet...did you buy the rotrex new?
If you can't get it to start I'll take it off your hands..:-)
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Old Aug 19th, 2008, 00:28   #3
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Yes bought the Rotrex new. About £1400 (ouch). I was going to use
an Eaton M45 which i bought off ebay for £150 but it wasnt going to
work out as well as the Rotrex installation. Rotrex so easy to fit, same size as the alternator it replaced.
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Old Aug 21st, 2008, 19:02   #4
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Default alternator

you probbaly know this already..or have sorted an alternative solution but will tell ya anyway.
Having removed the alternator you will need an alternative, so have you seen the alternators made by Powerlite which are direct replacements for old dynamos? Might just fit onto the old dynamo mounts under you manifolds
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Old Aug 21st, 2008, 20:55   #5
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very interesting all the best with it, i look forward to following your progress on here

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Old Aug 21st, 2008, 23:42   #6
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Talking Temp indicator sticker?

Hi,

Is this a temperature indicator sticker on the head plug? Cool idea. Lets you know about the head temperature immediately.
Very nice project. Hope to hear more soon...

How high have you set the compression? What cam do you use?

Cheers,
Bruno
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Old Aug 21st, 2008, 23:47   #7
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I have used a nice little Nippon Denso alternator as used on Daihatsu's. It
takes up very little space and has a built in regulator. I made a rose jointed
tensioner and an aluminium space to align the pullys
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Old Aug 21st, 2008, 23:55   #8
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Hi Bruno, The sticker on the head was fitted by the company that machined it for unleaded.
Im using standard B20F compression ratio of 8.7:1. I am going to start with a low boost of about 8 PSI to start with. Depends on detonation. To use full boost i will have to look for forged pistons. Im using the standard injection cam at the moment. Ive been trying to get hold of one of Vintage Performances supercharger profile cams but have had no reply from John Parker.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2008, 18:36   #9
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what sort of boost do you want to run? I would of thought with that comp ratio and some decent intercooling (from a 740, say), you should be able to run 1 bar easily enough...IMHO.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2008, 19:19   #10
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Hi Jimbo
I am going to start a just over half a bar (8 psi) and see how it goes. John Parker at VPD (www.v-performance.com) in America is getting 150 Bhp at the wheels with just 6 psi of boost with standrd exhaust / head / cam. With 10 psi this jumps to 170 bhp at the wheels.
Once i have all the bugs ironed out i may rebuild the engine with forged pistons and take the boost up.
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