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New pride & joy

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Old Aug 30th, 2013, 16:10   #271
960kg
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I have the plug as well......it is a blind holder for the connector it does not connect to anything, it`s just a Volvo way of protecting a connectors wires instead of it swinging in the air.

The loom part it is connected to is the A/C connector so maybe it is ready for some other type of A/C maybe Manual Type as mine is EEC??

.....................................

Just had a look at the diagram and the Climate Control wiring harness has the two plugs on the end.

Last edited by 960kg; Aug 30th, 2013 at 16:22.
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Old Aug 31st, 2013, 08:04   #272
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Thanks very much, Luxobarge.

All the best.

Reevo



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Reevo - you'll be able to replace the filter if yours has already got one, but if it's not fitted with the filter holder (as mine wasn't) then you'll need to get that from Volvo.

Cheers
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Old Aug 31st, 2013, 08:11   #273
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Hi Paul240480

Thanks for that: I often buy things from them. They have "genuine" Volvo parts (it has the Volvo stamp/name/etc on them, so I think it is...?), and the site also would describe these parts as genuine, and others not...

I buy certain parts from them, like spark plugs, oil filter, etc, but a timing belt kit I would go to be "robbed" by Volvo themselves. LOL!!

Thanks again.

Reevo



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Or from here :
http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=5589
Not sure which is best value ......
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Old Mar 8th, 2014, 19:36   #274
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OK, so the car has been making some pretty loud clonking noises from the N/S rear for a few weeks now, and having checked for play I found that the N/S suspension delta bish has gone - it's all intact but it's very squashy and there's a fair bit of up-and-down movement.

So I changed it today.

No photos I'm afraid, but I did the O/S one a year ago - see post #240 on page 24 for lots of pictures and how I did it.

Today was pretty much a repeat performance, but I used a different method of getting the old bush out of the arm.

Having jacked the car up and taken off all the bits & pieces, I levered the delta arm down as far as I could with a long crowbar and held it there with a block of wood between the arm and the bodywork. This gave me reasonably decent access to the bush. The centre tube of the bush was pretty rotten and was moving around a fair bit, I was able to move it right up and cut it in half with an angle grinder, so I could get the whole tube out.

This then left me with the end of the bush with a big hole in it. I got a length of medium-grade iron chain, about 4 feet long and threaded it through the hole in the bush. I then bolted the ends of the chain together to form a loop.

Then (as before) I used a blowtorch to heat up the bush housing, I kept going until the plastic was bubbling away merrily, in fact it all caught fire in a mild way but I had a squirty bottle of water handy which immediately doused the flames. So, now it was nice and hot, I took a large long-handled hammer and looped the chain around the handle near the head and whacked the hammer backwards, so the chain pulled on the bush. It only took 3 or 4 whacks and out popped the bush, good as gold!

It's a slightly violent method, I wore gloves to stop the chain damaging my hands with whiplash, but believe me it really works, and is probably easier than the slide-hammer method I used before - and cheaper than buying a slide-hammer, even if you don't have any chain it's cheap enough to buy some from an ironmongers or similar.

The rest of the job went totally as planned - I even used some heat on the end of the delta arm to help the new bush go in smoothly - all done in about 2 hours. Took the car for a run and it's totally cured the knocking noises, in fact it's now so quiet that a squeak from the glove-box that I never noticed before is annoying me!

I am the Delta Bush King!

Sorry - I'm just chuffed to bits with myself, as I wasn't looking forward to this job and in the end it couldn't have gone better.

Hope this helps anyone else who it attempting this job - it's not a bad one at all if you're careful and have a half decent set of tools.

Cheers all!
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Old Apr 13th, 2014, 14:29   #275
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Quote:
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Then remove the pinch bolt on the ball joint post. 17mm deep socked needed here, with a 16mm to hold the bolt head. Here is the ball joint with pinch bolt removed:



If the ball joint post doesn't drop out easily, it can help to carefully hammer a chisel in the gap to widen the clamp - this done, mine pretty well dropped out with a gentle tap:


The pinch bolt, is it just a case of undoing the nut and pop out the bolt, or is it threaded inside the clamp? I got the nut off, but the bolt is stuck solid, can't get any movement on it at all.
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Old Apr 16th, 2014, 19:28   #276
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So, another year has rolled around and it was time for the MoT today.

All passed fine, in fact he was pretty complimentary about it overall, just advises for front O/S tyre getting near the limit, a tiny star crack in the windscreen and smoke from the exhaust.

This last was a bit embarassing actually - the car was ticking over fine for most of the test with no smoke whatsoever, but when he took it up to fast idle for the emissions test it chucked a load of grey/blue smoke out of the exhaust, and it didn't clear within a few minutes either. So they had to switch it off before it set off the alarms and poke its rear out of the door and do the test again. Second time it passed, but still a lot of smoke.

So I discussed it with them, and we were talking possible valve stem seals, maybe worn rings, possibly the turbo, and then it occurred to me - this car has done exactly 150k miles now and I'm not sure if the PCV has ever been done - I'm guessing that a properly gunked up PCV could cause it to smoke at fast idle?

It does use a bit of oil, but not a huge amount, maybe 1 litre every 2,500 miles? The car runs absolutely fine, very smooth, instant starting, lots of power, no running problems at all, so I'm reluctant to believe it could be anything too serious.

Anyway, I'm going to do the PCV system first and see how it is after that, as I'm convinced it's well due by now, and the car does a fair number of short journeys generally, so it's not going to get better by itself is it?

So I'll order a kit of PCV bits from Rufe at FRF, I'll post back here with how I get on with the job.

Any helpful comments welcome as ever.

Cheers!
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Old Apr 16th, 2014, 20:28   #277
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I think that's a good call Rick. Apparently 100k is the 'time' . I did mine at around 140-150. Smoke from the dip stick after a good run, is tell-tale. but I'm sure you know that already.
Mine was a 'Rufe kit' , good all as you'll get all you need. I had some bits left over, as in not required for my N/a 20 valve....
There are some pics in my 'Zeb thread' on t'other forum of my efforts. I did, though follow a how too that is on here
BTW, Zeb is fine, just doubled his value by adding 4 new tyres, lol.
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Old May 16th, 2014, 16:04   #278
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Back in post number 223 you were suggesting that you might make some alteration to the superflex bush that you fitted - did you actually ever do that or is it just the same as when you fitted it, and is it performing well?

regards

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Old May 16th, 2014, 20:13   #279
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Back in post number 223 you were suggesting that you might make some alteration to the superflex bush that you fitted - did you actually ever do that or is it just the same as when you fitted it, and is it performing well?

regards

chris
Hmm - I'd forgotten about that actually, so no, I didn't ever put a fatter bolt in it. However it's still tight and solid and is working fine - shows all the signs of never needing to be touched again, and I've not had any problems with cabin noise or vibration. It's so easy to fit compared to the standard item that I'd strongly recommend this as a way to go.

Still haven't done the PCV yet, although the parts have arrived - will update this thread when I do.

Cheers!
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Old May 16th, 2014, 20:28   #280
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PCV is on my "to do" list as well.

Cheers

Chris
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